Originally posted by TommyP
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Originally posted by Jim24 View Post
Thanks Tommy. It's a possibility that briefly crossed my mind, as well as the state of the bolts on that side that carried all that weight when the lug on the other side gave way. I was toying with the notion of replacing the bolts for peace of mind, so perhaps I should check that mounting bracket at the same time?
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Originally posted by TommyP View Post
I think the chances of yours twisting a mount from power is somewhere between slim and anorexic.
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I'm referring to the short drive including braking, when the engine and transmission were hanging down at an angle, effectively unsupported on the driver's side other than by the drive shaft, with the rotating crankshaft pulley resting on the PAS rubber oil pipe. How much does an engine&transmission weigh? Think of the imposed leverage on those bolts? That's a lot of inertia for a couple of bolts on one side to restrain when braking too?
That's somewhat a brief doubling of the design load on the remaining battery side mount and bolts, so I intend on replacing the bolts. It would be daft and pure laziness not to carefully inspect the battery side mount and damper for damage when I'm in there in due course, but for my current local runs it's not urgent.
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Originally posted by Jim24 View Post
Strictly speaking, I sort of agree Tommy, and that's why I'm content to drive it around at the moment.
I'm referring to the short drive including braking, when the engine and transmission were hanging down at an angle, effectively unsupported on the driver's side other than by the drive shaft, with the rotating crankshaft pulley resting on the PAS rubber oil pipe. How much does an engine&transmission weigh? Think of the imposed leverage on those bolts? That's a lot of inertia for a couple of bolts on one side to restrain when braking too?
That's somewhat a brief doubling of the design load on the remaining battery side mount and bolts, so I intend on replacing the bolts. It would be daft and pure laziness not to carefully inspect the battery side mount and damper for damage when I'm in there in due course, but for my current local runs it's not urgent.
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Originally posted by TommyP View Post
The top fixings for the engine mount are nuts so are you considering changed the oil filled mounts? Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s
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So on the way to work this morning I had my foot buried and the engine hoofing out bags of grunt pulling onto the M1 and then BANG, engine revs to oblivion (which I normally like) and lots of grinding.
I accelerated lightly and it was fine, I accelerated again and the same again. I managed to limp it off the motorway at a convenient junction only shortly after I’d gotten on and decided to head home via town as I was convinced a driveshaft had detonated so going slower would make more sense. I made it a few miles as it had progressively worked it’s way towards being undriveable.
The garage had another van in it so I had to finish that off then ship it out and then get mine in.
The app won’t let me post pics but the half shaft has come out of the stub shaft enough for it to strip the splines and knacker them both. Could be a drive shaft issue.
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Last edited by Activ8; 13 January 2023, 12:20 AM.#vanlife
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It may sound a bit perverse to say so Tommy, but wouldn't that at least be preferable to the cause being at the other end, buried deeper into the differential, allowing the stub shaft to move inwards?
If so, fingers crossed.
For other Pilgrims, and a reminder to self; OEM Drive Shafts, (incl' CV Joints & Boots) are GKN/Löbro, and so naturally high end, and IIRC are available as repair kits from Autodoc and Brickwerks. Euro sell the whole Lobro assembled shaft should the splines be worn, but their service levels are inconsistent, but if you catch them during one of their regular Sales? Then Aftermarket, there's good old Febi, and perhaps SKF might be a smart punt if they are made in their Swedish factory?Last edited by Jim24; 13 January 2023, 02:36 AM.
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Originally posted by Jim24 View PostIt may sound a bit perverse to say so Tommy, but wouldn't that at least be preferable to the cause being at the other end, buried deeper into the differential, allowing the stub shaft to move inwards?
If so, fingers crossed.
For other Pilgrims, and a reminder to self; OEM Drive Shafts, (incl' CV Joints & Boots) are GKN/Löbro, and so naturally high end, and IIRC are available as repair kits from Autodoc and Brickwerks. Euro sell the whole Lobro assembled shaft should the splines be worn, but their service levels are inconsistent, but if you catch them during one of their regular Sales? Then Aftermarket, there's good old Febi, and perhaps SKF might be a smart punt if they are made in their Swedish factory?
I’ve ordered a complete shaft from J&R CV Joints in Solihull. £61 - They came recommended from a trusted source and I’ll rebuild the one that comes off and put it into stock.
The stub shaft and half shaft I’ve ordered are Meyle as I’d hope they couldn’t fuck up solid pieces of metal like the rest of their range. I ordered them as they were £85 for both and the fastest delivery option.
This is mine:
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Originally posted by TommyP View Post
I don’t think it could ever push into the diff due to the shape of the stub shaft.
I’ve ordered a complete shaft from J&R CV Joints in Solihull. £61 - They came recommended from a trusted source and I’ll rebuild the one that comes off and put it into stock.
The stub shaft and half shaft I’ve ordered are Meyle as I’d hope they couldn’t fuck up solid pieces of metal like the rest of their range. I ordered them as they were £85 for both and the fastest delivery option.
This is mine:
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