Tweet
Originally posted by Activ8
View Post
-
Guessing there would be many wives and partners out there wanting to do that -
Just wondering if I hydrate 80 these or should it be just heat proof paint? Haven’t opened the drum up yet but it’s spinning freely now on that side anyway. Too windy to weld tonight but itching to get onto the tailgate so just doing odd jobs for now.
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4sComment
-
What does BH suggest in its guides and tech specs?
Likewise the heat paint specs?Comment
-
I've seen a few videos of folk painting calipers in position and I can't say any of them have used rust treatment first. Just cleaned up with a knot wheel like you've already done then paint.
Ill paint mine as well at some point but previous cars I've bought with them done they've just looked scabby after a while.
Built not bought using Just T4s
Comment
-
Not sure about the temperature tolerance of H80? All I can find is information about storage temperatures. Made a start cleaning up underneath the van tonight too. Worst is near the back but so far it’s just been surface rust and not rot. No rush to paint the drums just don’t like the crusty look.
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4sComment
-
Would this be any good for underneath? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202434926...mis&media=COPY
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4sComment
-
I've used that but with mixed results, same as Bilt Hamber. Underneath i bollock on a couple a layers of red oxide barn paint pinched from my traveller inlaws. Then you want a good covering of shultz.Last edited by S49; 6 July 2023, 07:36 AM.Comment
-
I've never bothered painting calipers or non-motorcycle brake drums, but then again that's the beauty of sticking with steel wheels!Originally posted by fifet4 View Post
I'd rather spend the time on my ever growing list of van jobs that need doing, such as rustproofing areas that do matter, or even emptying the vacuum pump of oil, but each to their own.Comment
-
Andreas (Hans on here) recommended K2 Heat Paint and it's very good.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183285051...mis&media=COPY
I've applied it both ways ie over H80 and just knotted wheeled the loose surface rust off per tin guide. I would state its better without as it bonds better to the metal surface.Comment
-
Yes, almost 5 years. Still onComment
-
I'm working through rust proofing/treating the whole van in the hope it will pass an MOT. Not going to be a show stopper but I do want it to look tidy and be safe of course. At the moment its by the house nose in to the fence so I can weld the tailgate but I think I will have to reverse it into the end of the garage. No space in there to get it all the way in but out of the wind and rain at least.Originally posted by Jim24 View PostComment
-
Finally got round to welding the tailgate! 3 months later than planned! Found more rust on the tailgate so I’ve treated it and started to put some filler on it. Think the areas that need chopping out would be too difficult for me to fabricate and weld. Still more filling and sanding needed but if the weather is decent I can carry on after work in the week. The floor wasn’t fitting properly so made some adjustments to get it flush. One sheet has warped but hopefully when it’s eventually screwed down it will be ok.
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4sComment
-
Progress, thats what we like to see.
Comment
-
You're doing a grand job there SteveComment
-
Comment