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N/S bolts up, but it's at a nasty angle, because its short the angle is increased and it also pulls the gearbox back so the boss clouts the subframe again, it hard to tell if the engine is straight in the chassis because there's no straight lines convenient for a datum.
It looks like if I pull the engine forward on the N/S how it looks like it should be then the driveshaft will be at a really bad angle - could move the engine back towards the bulkhead, but then the gearbox boss would be back to hitting the subframe.
Now I'm in two minds about ditching the project....there are compromises in the set up that I'm struggling to cope with.
The driveshaft position/angle is the biggy - if the gearbox had a larger van size diff, the centre line of the diff output shafts would be that little bit more offset from the gearbox and give just that bit more clearance and a better direct line from gearbox to hub.
I'll have a bit more of a play tonight.... if I feel up to it, as I have foundations to dig out this afternoon.
This might be a daft question but what suspension height are you setting it all up at during this 1st fitting phase? Can you post a picture of the drive shaft positions / angles & spacing.
I don't like the idea of shifting the engine 15mm as with the head on and its oem manifold(s) it starts getting tight with larger turbos. I'd prefer to have driveshaft spacers / made / shortened. How did Tom fit that 02M , although it's only 4 cylinders.
This might be a daft question but what suspension height are you setting it all up at during this 1st fitting phase? Can you post a picture of the drive shaft positions / angles & spacing.
I don't like the idea of shifting the engine 15mm as with the head on and its oem manifold(s) it starts getting tight with larger turbos. I'd prefer to have driveshaft spacers / made / shortened. How did Tom fit that 02M , although it's only 4 cylinders.
I'll get a picture to explain the driveshaft angles, at the moment the suspension is not connected so hubs are resting under their own weight, liftig them up to a more normal position would remove the angle problem in the vertical plane. The gearbox output cups are an amount forward of their conventional position for 2 reasons;
- The problem of the diff size, i.e the distance from diff centreline and gearbox input shaft centreline is shorter on the 6 speed.
- The six speed box output cup on NS is much further over towards the NS hub -hence the shorter driveshaft which compounds any alignment related angles- and the cup and CV are literally in the notch in the subframe that normally only has the diameter of the shaft to accomodate meaning that there is little room to move the cup/CV either up/down or push it back nearer the hub centreline.
Moving the engine makes little difference to me as I wont be burdened with OEM fanimolds, although I appreciate the concern, the turbo install for me has always been tighter on the NS, making exhaust routing tricky but the turbo inlet also runs tight on the OS. Bringing the turbo up on a spacer on the standard fanimold would be an option to improve access, there's plenty of height available.
Fitting with a 4 pot changes the game completely, so much more space to move the gearbox over to the OS, not sure how Tom has achieved fitment problems with the NS CV, I've tried asking him questions generally, but not seen a reply.
If its a "kit solution" it'll need to be universal and easy?
Are the 02B & 02G input shaft to driveshaft outputs the same distance and what is it in mm?
Could the gearbox be clocked up or down further on the adaptor to modify it's position on its arc, to ease the initial restrictions? Or the engine raised for more clearance?
If its a "kit solution" it'll need to be universal and easy?
Agreed, and the more mods and compromises made the further it becomes removed from a diy kit - I'm thinking it would be easier to get a six speed box - from any manufacturer and make that fit, if I'm using an adaptor plate and custom brackets anyway, why should I stick with VW stuff, a ford box may fit, be stronger and cheaper/plentiful
Could the gearbox be clocked up or down further on the adaptor to modify it's position on its arc, to ease the initial restrictions? Or the engine raised for more clearance?
Gearbox could be clocked 5 degrees in either direction, you'd not gain much and that CV will always be prevented from sitting in a good position because of the subframe - I'll get photos (=1000 words)
Raise the engine would be good....but CV/subframe and now mounting boss/subframe
Agreed, and the more mods and compromises made the further it becomes removed from a diy kit - I'm thinking it would be easier to get a six speed box - from any manufacturer and make that fit, if I'm using an adaptor plate and custom brackets anyway, why should I stick with VW stuff, a ford box may fit, be stronger and cheaper/plentiful
No idea, it's the casing and that sodding mounting boss.
Gearbox could be clocked 5 degrees in either direction, you'd not gain much and that CV will always be prevented from sitting in a good position because of the subframe - I'll get photos (=1000 words)
Just been under the van.
What about putting spacer(s) between the subframe and chassis, extending the 4 (?) chassis fixings to suit
Rear fixings are M12x1.5x35
Front fixings are M14x1.5x45
Might have to adapt the torsion bar too?
Could also play with moving the subframe a few mm if it's being spaced / adapted?
Just been under the van.
What about putting spacer(s) between the subframe and chassis, extending the 4 (?) chassis fixings to suit
Rear fixings are M12x1.5x35
Front fixings are M14x1.5x45
Might have to adapt the torsion bar too?
Could also play with moving the subframe a few mm if it's being spaced / adapted?
Could just build a new van around the six speed box...
I've been out tonight playing, lifted the suspension up, driveshaft looks better but it's at least 10mm too long, pushing the universal joint into a position where it';s movement is severely compromised.
I unbolted the NS driveshaft as it was forcing the gearbox into the wrong place, now the engine is sat much better and I'm left with something I have been avoiding for 6 months and something I really don't want to do - grinding the boss off the gearbox, drastic measures but theres no way around it. I've been loathe to do it as it's not my gearbox (donated by activ ) and even when I do it, it still may not fit.
I'm also going to cut the driveshaft in half, chop 15mm out of it and then sleeve around it with a tube so it makes a sliding fit, it'll guide the gearbox into place but not force it into a position it shouldn't be in.
I really dont want to lower the subframe or motor because lows are cool.
It's grinder time - sorry Activ.
Oh and mike..... satin. No brainer.
Last edited by regcheeseman; 15 May 2020, 11:03 PM.
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