Six speed conversion

[regcheeseman]

Might be worth looking at a flywheel converter too from 6 & 8 bolt to 10 bolt that would upgrade all the clutch and starter over to 240mm? Might be an easier 2nd hand buy???

Nope, can't see how that would work, adaptor is 12mm thick (poss 15???) I would not feel comfortable with flywheel bolts only attached to adaptor and so little material left in the adaptor.

Whats the difference, surely a 240mm flywheel has the same pressure plate area and starter ring gear regardless of whether it is mounted with 6, 8 or 10 bolts?

So six bolt youd get 2 original full length fixings at 0 & 180°

Not sure you would.... there's strange polarisation on the bolt patterns, can recall if it was just PCD variation on the 10 holes or if there was different angular displacement as well i.e. not all 10 bolts are 36 degrees apart, I measured on CMM and just fired the data into CAD as a CSV file

What size clutch are you mocking up with? Just wondered what clearances there are, I think the Crafter uses a 360mm ;-).

Not mocking with any clutch - I have a billet of ally aligning crank with gearbox input shaft.

What is standard height compared to lows?

Pendulum is fine on -60, the comment was for the sausage's fanboi squad who want to render their vans undriveable - you know, the engine lifting chassis notchers who like to remove gearbox mounts so they can smash their sumps more readily......pricks.

[Activ8]

Nope, can't see how that would work, adaptor is 12mm thick (poss 15???) I would not feel comfortable with flywheel bolts only attached to adaptor and so little material left in the adaptor.

Just a thought. It would only match the existing fly to crank face setup?

Whats the difference, surely a 240mm flywheel has the same pressure plate area and starter ring gear regardless of whether it is mounted with 6, 8 or 10 bolts?

Starter ring yes - it should match although Ive never compared a 4 cyl. The spring plate doesn't, its pressed / machined for 215 /220 / 240 on both DMF & SMF flys from the ones I've compared, (SRE being the exception) although the existing fly face could be machined to suit. The pressure plate shaping is also designed for 215 /220 & 240mm but a 240 would fit a machined 215 / 220 fly. There isn't to my knowledge a 6 bolt 240mm fly/pressure plate or 28t disc option at all unless its converted and only the German 111ps with its 8 bolt 240mm (although some older 5cyl Audis used a 240mm 8 bolt DMF - which are v expensive) neither is there an 8 bolt 240mm SMF on the market unless you ask Techniclucks nicely - possibly? There are a lot of good value 10 bolt DMFs and a lot of expensive SMFs hence my thoughts.

Not sure you would.... there's strange polarisation on the bolt patterns, can recall if it was just PCD variation on the 10 holes or if there was different angular displacement as well i.e. not all 10 bolts are 36 degrees apart, I measured on CMM and just fired the data into CAD as a CSV file.

Yep makes sense. I bought the SRE 10 bolt SMF fly for that engine / gearbox so I could check. Face to face with my 8 bolt lightened SMF I'm sure a couple of holes lined up at 0 & 180°.

Not mocking with any clutch - I have a billet of ally aligning crank with gearbox input shaft.

Ah , OK. Early days and progress .... apologies for getting ahead of myself.

Pendulum is fine on -60, the comment was for the sausage's fanboi squad who woant to render their vans undriveable - you know, the engine lifting chassis notchers who like to remove gearbox mounts so they can smash their sumps more readily......pricks.

Yep figured that. Minus 60 suits the majority I'd assume. No bother though if a hydraulic system is next on the Cheese Towers project board??????



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[Activ8]

What's the thoughts with a 4 cyl conversion? Just modify the NS drive shaft or spacer the OS otherwise you'll need two gearbox pendulums but I don't know the 1.9s at all.

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[Activ8]

Plenty of scope for your new business venture with both engine AND gearbox upgrades potentially......

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[regcheeseman]

What's the thoughts with a 4 cyl conversion? Just modify the NS drive shaft or spacer the OS otherwise you'll need two gearbox pendulums but I don't know the 1.9s at all.

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I don't have a 1.9, who cares.


(It's the same mounts.)

[Jumbungla]

I care!

Loving reading this, glad to see you've got over the fitting hump.

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[Activ8]

I don't have a 1.9, who cares.


(It's the same mounts.)

Fair enough...
Thought this would be a Cheese Towers kit?

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[regcheeseman]

Ta da!!!!



Hanging on the roughed up NS mount, no pendulum mount fitted yet.

Dropped back out again so I can fine tune the bracket,



add a brace to pick up another couple of mounts on the gearbox to replace the one that was cut off for clearance, this will also create a new mount for the shifter cable bracket, the plan being to re-orientate the shifter cable mount up so the cable point towards the shifter tower mounting position in the cab floor rather than pointing the cables at the ground because the gearbox is rotated backwards 30 degrees. This bracket will also brace across the section of gearbox that was chopped out, hopefully increasing the strength more than standard.


The gearbox housing is still very close to the subframe, but on inspection I can chop more out of the casing without compromising it's strength significantly and the plate I weld back in to repair the casing and it should tie it all back together nicely



This is the Golf support bracket on the back of the block, that's as close as it will get to bolting up, the casting is odd shaped and will not rotate around to bring the mounting points any closer together



This is the O2G mount - close but too close to fit fasteners into an adaptor plate to marry the two parts. I could mill 10mm off the mounting area to create enough room to bolt up; but ideally I want a bracket I don't need to modify aside from just bolting in an adaptor plate. I could weld on a plate.....


It would be good to try with the more common 02B bracket to see if it is any different and possibly create a universal option

[Activ8]

Great work.
Would the 02G bracket work if pivoted off the centre bolt , then relocate the lower fixing and make a fixing for the top?

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[regcheeseman]

Great work.
Would the 02G bracket work if pivoted off the centre bolt , then relocate the lower fixing and make a fixing for the top?

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No, wouldn't consider that. Compromising the mounting points and skewing the mounting face for the bearing, adding a new opportunity for misalignment, I already have to worry about 2 axis of freedom and that would add the third.

Could use some spacers to pack it off the block, that'd work, keep the bracket square and retain the original fixings

Does the 02G bracket look like the 02B one???

[Activ8]

Does the 02G bracket look like the 02B one???

Yes

Ah OK, it just needs packing out from the block. I thought it was the shift in position of the bracket due to the adaptor and shorter distance between input / output shafts. Are the positions of the Golf / T4 OS drive shaft cups in different places with their relative brackets fixed to the block?


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[regcheeseman]

Yes

Ah OK, it just needs packing out from the block. I thought it was the shift in position of the bracket due to the adaptor and shorter distance between input / output shafts. Are the positions of the Golf / T4 OS drive shaft cups in different places with their relative brackets fixed to the block?

Not sure if there is any difference in effective position of the drive shaft cup - I'm guessing not as the spacer I require to bolt CV to cup looks to be the same thickness as the gearbox adaptor plate.

Doesn't help that the bracket should bolt up to an aluminium housing and now it is trying to bolt up to a bearing carrier.

As the output shaft sits on a lengthy splined shaft - I could in theory, not push the output shaft fully into position on the gearbox spline - this would loose the requirement for a spacer and possibly give just enough room to fit an adaptor plate between the bracket and the bearing carrier on the output shaft, maybe without spacing the bracket off the block.

I will get the top gearbox-chassis mount bracket finished first, then sort the pendulum mount out on the back of the gearbox/diff that will pull the gearbox up and back, tilting the engine forward, I think it is pulled into this slightly unnatural position so the engine weight can be used to offset some of the torque reaction when driving forwards.


Also considering the shifter position - I was always going to fit the shifter mech mostly below the floor, but now I'm thinking to mount it onto the floor, I think speeding tube has it wrong, half tempted to mount it up on a platform. Fastnfurious style.

[Activ8]

Just a tangent , what do you think to the idea of fitting the 6/7 speed DSG - I'd of thought your adaptor would work?

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[regcheeseman]

Just a tangent , what do you think to the idea of fitting the 6/7 speed DSG - I'd of thought your adaptor would work?

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<grammernazi>Chavtastic, that's the third time you've done that recently, can no longer ignore it....the word is 'have' not 'of', nearly as annoying as the 'pacific' 'specific' confusion. </grammernazi>


ahem..... yep, looked at DSG, donor boxes are not cheap, not in the realms of most T4 owners meagre budgets



Bracket roughed up, literally. Already have plans how I can make it better, but I'll probably use it to make a jig. The shift cables are mounted up but they are too close to the shift mech on the gearbox and I run out of adjustment, I'll move the mount back 20mm, it's only tacked because I ran out of gas.

[Activ8]

I should of corrected that - Chavtastic!

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