Product Tests

[S49]

I will also state that as far as hardness and chip resistance goes i think you have to go a long way to beat Bilt Hamper if at all you can without using a modern spray bake 2 pac paint. Without an oven and the correct breathing gear i would leave that stuff to the pro bodyshops and thats without even considering of the emission side of it. And even with the right gear there arent many old sprayer about due to the effects of said paint, it was the same with mechanics and the old friction materials.

[Activ8]

If its always down to prep who cares what paint you use.Practical Classics test paid for by Bilt Bembers add fee. My sill was fecking spotless when i "Bilted" it, far cleaner than the repair to the left sill of Mols bus which i used red oxide on. It came back on S49, no signs four years later on Molly left hand sill but it showed through on the right side that was Cold Galv'd. And these vehicles are in daily use on mucky, salty, cow and horse shit covered rural roads. But this the reason i started this thread. To get and document others experiance and results to hopefully build a true "real world" picture of what works how and why.

It's a layered process as you well know Si.
This is old news to many, no prep and you'll be renewing your efforts far quicker than someone more diligent.

The additional applications, layers and processes are clearly what the thread wishes to offer and support the reader with?

The experience info regarding S49 and Mollys van has made it somewhat clearer. Brilliant and thank you. Reg was always great at product testing having a broad experience, he seemed to support the Bilt Hamber range for rust and panel treatments.

I've not tried many, so yours, Jims and others experiences are hugely valuable.

[Jim24]

....But this the reason i started this thread. To get and document others experiance and results to hopefully build a true "real world" picture of what works how and why.

And an excellent idea too Si.
Warning: I'm feeling slightly aroused, curiosity wise...

Its probably just coincidence, but it occurs to me that with all the vehicles I've ever owned, the corrosion has always been more severe and noticeable on the right-hand side. Is that a result of how winter road salt is spread by the gritters? It's probably utter balivernes, but surely there must be an underlying reason? Or is it just me?

I've yet to try Bilt, but will do so in due course.

[TommyP]

And an excellent idea too Si.
Warning: I'm feeling slightly aroused, curiosity wise...

Its probably just coincidence, but it occurs to me that with all the vehicles I've ever owned, the corrosion has always been more severe and noticeable on the right-hand side. Is that a result of how winter road salt is spread by the gritters? It's probably utter balivernes, but surely there must be an underlying reason? Or is it just me?

I've yet to try Bilt, but will do so in due course.

You’ve hit the nail on the head with this statement here Jim. I’ve always found that motors rot worse on the drivers side which I couldn’t work out as surely with the camber of the road there’s more rainwater and puddles on the near side in the gutter. Bizarre.


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[S49]

Now on Molls bus the near side rear arch has a lot of filler and the sliding door cill had to be replaced, i will replace the quarter panel when i run out of jobs but the right hand side is unrepaired and mint for a 26 year old van.So who knows...............

[Jim24]

You’ve hit the nail on the head with this statement here Jim. I’ve always found that motors rot worse on the drivers side which I couldn’t work out as surely with the camber of the road there’s more rainwater and puddles on the near side in the gutter. Bizarre.


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Exactly my thoughts Tommy.

Si's experiences seem to counter this hypothesis, but I think there is a way we could be more objective about this, and rule out the effects of mud flaps, front wing compost accumulations diverting water down the rear of the front arches and into the front part of the sills, etc etc.

I suggest that we just compare the corrosion of the lower front cross-member on as large a sample of UK based vans as possible, (i.e. that drive on the left. Japan et al anyone?)


I'll start the ball rolling: the corrosion on my cross-member was markedly more severe on the air-box side than the battery side.


Battery Side: 0

Air-box Side: 1


Please spare a few minutes to contribute

[S49]

Another spanner in the works, on S49 you'll remember i repaired the airbox side of the front cross member and looking at the early part of Mols rebuild/accident repair i replaced the o/s/f out rigger because of rust but otherwise that side was mint. The nearside was renew cause it was bent but not corroded yet i replaced that side sill and slider channel due to huge amounts of tin worm. And really i want to do the rear arch to make the thing mint and filler free.

[Activ8]

Is it a production thing?
I'm sure the T4 was designed as a LHD vehicle , RHD was a lower volume production compromise.

[Jim24]

Is it a production thing?
I'm sure the T4 was designed as a LHD vehicle , RHD was a lower volume production compromise.

You are probably correct Rob, but I would have thought that focusing just on front cross-member corrosion would mostly rule out these other variables, such as the different sliding door step dimensions and associated drip holes that Andreas mentioned?

Tommy agreed with the conjecture, which predates my T4 ownership, and he seen rather more vans than most of us as well, so I suspect that there's possibly something to it? Maybe?

What's your cross-member corrosion like?

Anoraks on...tally ho...

[Jim24]

Ben - you've been welding your cross-member up.

How do the rear faces of the two ends compare?

[S49]

Rear faces? It was the front of mine that rusted.

[Jim24]

Rear or front Si - for most the rear will be readily accessible

[Hans]

My is a LHD and the cross-member was equal shite.

[Activ8]

Whilst chatting at Shardlow T4's yesterday we bounced over a few "golden" parts. The cross member was one, I'm sure it was £650-850 he was reckoning. £850 for a full aircon system, £80 for oem electric mirrors, the "golden" list rolled on, believe me. £850 for a solid rear tailgate.

If you find it now, hoard it ..... as he was convinced VAG parts are on the rise. With the pound low, more will now go abroad.

[TommyP]

Whilst chatting at Shardlow T4's yesterday we bounced over a few "golden" parts. The cross member was one, I'm sure it was £650-850 he was reckoning. £850 for a full aircon system, £80 for oem electric mirrors, the "golden" list rolled on, believe me. £850 for a solid rear tailgate.

If you find it now, hoard it ..... as he was convinced VAG parts are on the rise. With the pound low, more will now go abroad.

They’re selling cross members for what now?!?!? I usually deal with the son and he’s more mercenary. When I needed one for the camper they had a selection and price varied depending on condition but the cheapest was £80 and worse than the one I was replacing and the most expensive was £200. That was only 18 months ago!

I’m not taking just vans btw Jim. That Alfa I’m dropping on and off is the same and various other vehicles I’ve seen too. All seem to be worse on the drivers side.

The back of Bens crossmember was bad as well needing a lot cutting out and new going in.



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