Product Tests

[S49]

Here goes with the first one. Let's see what all the fuss is about. Feel free to add your own as we go.

[S49]

This will be totally unbiased, if it's over rated like Bilt Hamber I'll say so

[S49]

I got the before and after ass about face. I'd be great on that's life

[Activ8]

Based on the order of pics, you've proper furked them up Si!

[S49]

I took the bumper off and again refused the offer of gloves.I then had finger nails blacker than a goth at Whitby.First look I'm impressed. Cold light a day will tell.

[S49]

It seems to go a long way. Good job as it's thirty odd quid a tube.Seems expensive but cheaper than a new bumper. Mol bought it mind so I'm not outta pocket.

[Activ8]

Will you be blackening your rear?

[S49]

I once watched a porno called "The Big Black Ass Fucker". I wont be letting him anywhere near. Yes mate the rear is worse.

[TommyP]

If that’s the Wurth stuff then you’ve done the job right my and first time.

Yes they look great and bring any state of bumper back but what you don’t know and won’t for a long time is that it lasts for years mate. They’ll still look that good this time next year and the year after that.

Expensive initial outlay but the cheapest product on the market when you consider the time it lasts and no need to keep applying every month or so like other shite. I gave my grey dash one coat and it looks factory. I was going to do 2 like I would on bumpers but I never bothered as it looks that good and that was years ago.


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[S49]

If that’s the Wurth stuff then you’ve done the job right my and first time.

Yes they look great and bring any state of bumper back but what you don’t know and won’t for a long time is that it lasts for years mate. They’ll still look that good this time next year and the year after that.

Expensive initial outlay but the cheapest product on the market when you consider the time it lasts and no need to keep applying every month or so like other shite. I gave my grey dash one coat and it looks factory. I was going to do 2 like I would on bumpers but I never bothered as it looks that good and that was years ago.


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Product tests...........the above is what i'm after.

[Jim24]

And nothing to fall off or get scraped off, as it isn't a paint. I was dubious, but did my blotchy sun bleached front last year, and it still looks crisp. I'm very impressed, and look forward to doing the rear bumper too in due course.

Maybe next year, along with fixing the spare wheel carrier safety bolt, and rustproofing the rear cross-member.

It could be a 2023 Spring full of of rear end fumbling

[S49]

Having used both Bilt Hamber electrowotsit and Cold Galv, both which have given good and mixed results in equal measure it got me thinking the only primer i havent had rust come back through has been good old red oxide. None of this is based on any sort of science.Just my own trial and error. Bilt Hamper have lots of "test" results but these are on their adverts so i'm naturally sceptic of them and Cold Galvs claims, where as i'm looking at theirs and red oxides results with my own eyes. The arguments are endless and folk will always use what they know to be right............................................. .................................................. ......

[Activ8]

Wheres your evidence Si?

Practical Classics did the 3 year test to support Bilt Hambers Electrox. Follow the application guidance. Really chuffed with my own trials. 3 + years and still good.

It's always down to the prep.

[Jim24]

I do know that Red Oxide paint is a very different formula to that of the past, and it certainly no longer has any lead in it Si. Whether the new stuff is better or worse in protection terms I know not.

No matter how good the paint is, it finally comes down to , and ensuring each and every trace of rust is removed, and that means all traces. And removing existing rust mechanically is not always 100% effective, especially if there are pits or blisters. Or perhaps I should buy a Dremel??

My belief is that any Iron Oxide left beneath the new paint will supply oxygen atoms to grow more rust. That's why I like to acid etch before painting, the phosphoric acid changes any hard to reach Iron Oxide to inert Iron Phosphate (black in colour). I'm always surprised that after having mechanically cleaned, supposedly thoroughly, a piece of rusty steel, how many black patches subsequently appear when etched. When dry, I then mechanically wire brush clean again, and repeat the whole process as necessary.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374083603...Bk9SR9yfnc3tYA

I reckon that it is virtually impossible to permanently kill entrenched rust, short of shot blasting, or cutting the section out and replacing it with new metal. The best I can hope for is to slow down the process.

I then apply the best paint I can find, to starve the steel of oxygen (air & water), preferably long-term, but it all comes down to that initial preparation - the six Pees.

[S49]

If its always down to prep who cares what paint you use.Practical Classics test paid for by Bilt Bembers add fee. My sill was fecking spotless when i "Bilted" it, far cleaner than the repair to the left sill of Mols bus which i used red oxide on. It came back on S49, no signs four years later on Molly left hand sill but it showed through on the right side that was Cold Galv'd. And these vehicles are in daily use on mucky, salty, cow and horse shit covered rural roads. But this the reason i started this thread. To get and document others experiance and results to hopefully build a true "real world" picture of what works how and why.