Tweet
Dubdicks mesh over the drain holes is a cracking idea as it reduces the amount of plant material and silt getting into the inner wings.
-
-
I greatly respect your hard won experience Si, (and I do know how hard won it must have been). But I haven't found any evidence of any more water in my outriggers or the sills at the front since putting in the drains, so I'm confident it is working for me.Originally posted by S49 View PostI'm of the opposite veiw to Jim. Having rebuilt the front ends of two T4s i know there are so many gaps for water to run down the drainage tube dont make an apath of difference, If anything they will restrict the moisture coming out. A good cavity wax (not waxoil) and regular clean outs is what will stop the tin worm taking hold.For example where the scuttle meets the wings you could drive a bus down the gap.And if you could seal that off it would find other ways of getting down. Theres just no way you can get all the water run off from the windscreen to go down a drain tube fitted to those holes on the scuttle. When i fit wings i dont bond them to the arch like factory, my thinking it allows the water out easier and its a doddle to remove the wings(bolted type) for maintenance. Sorry Jim, we dont disagree on much mate.
I sealed off the gaps around and up the sides of the scuttle tray, and extended the tray across the full length of the wings, to the door edges, using reinforced Denso tape, and with a slight fall to the front, so the now uninterrupted side lip is now at a high uniform height. And because it's pliable, it squashes up the inner sides of the front wings when you push them on, to form a good seal. (Welding in extra metal and trying to achieve an equivalent tight fit would be a nightmare?).
It's a shame that I couldn't supply any photo's at the time.
There simply aren't any gaps left for water to run down, other than over the new gap-less perimeter upper edge of the scuttle tray, as happened when I had that extreme weather event a few months ago, and the two hoses were overwhelmed, (just like the road drains!). It was a mini-waterfall at the middle of the scuttle tray. That's why I planned to fit two more hoses - I drilled the holes, fitted temporary sealing grommets, and then got distracted!
Yes it's a bodge, but so was the original design IMO, and I'm solidly delighted with the outcome so far.
I will of course let you all know if or when I ever consider it a mistake, or find a downside, (and in the event it is all easily reversible after all!).
Maybe we should all park facing uphill??Comment
-
No. NO no no NOnoNnonononononoOriginally posted by SteveT4Pembs View Post
NO.
FFS.
Nothing made by finnigans - ever.
No red oxide either, unless you get pre war stuff with zyklon B in it
Dinitrol, Bilt Hamber, 3M, epoxy mastic, - these are your friends
Do it right and do it once - but start by getting rid of the rust, every speck - not a half arsed scrape with a wire brush. proper prep prevents piss poor performance. knot wheels, grinders and flap disc.
There was a brilliant thread on here that showed exactly how to do it properly but my red oxide addled brain prevents me from remembering who what or why.Comment
-
Where have you been Reg?Me cago en la madre que te parió!Comment
-
Always thought of him as a fluffer.Me cago en la madre que te parió!Comment
-
Thanks for the advice Reg. I’ll keep you posted on how I get onOriginally posted by regcheeseman View PostComment
-
Quick question all - There is a 1z engine on my doorstep that could be for sale. I think an AHU was in the van before so wondering is there much difference between the two? IE could a 1z plug and play with the AHU wiring etc? Diolch/Thank you
Comment
-
Virtually no difference. Non that matter anyway. Just get that and the other one just in case. It can’t hurtOriginally posted by SteveT4Pembs View PostQuick question all - There is a 1z engine on my doorstep that could be for sale. I think an AHU was in the van before so wondering is there much difference between the two? IE could a 1z plug and play with the AHU wiring etc? Diolch/Thank you
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s#vanlifeComment
-
Hi all. Progress has been slow on the van due to other van issues! Long story short the wishbone came off the subframe of my T5 so that's taken all my money recently! I've flap disc'd this crossmember last night and this morning it looks like surface rust has formed underneath the bilt hamber hydrate 80. Do I need to take this back to bare steel again or just apply a second coat of hydrate 80? It seems to work well on rust but bare steel I'm not sure? It was humid last night but the steel looked dry when I applied the hydrate 80? I used wonder wipes before applying the bilt hamber and left it for a good half hour. Thank you in advance for your time and advice. Cheers
Attached FilesComment
-
-
Speak to Bilt Hamber after rereading the product instructions for further advice. Super helpful fellas.Comment
-
In carefully staged tests Bilt Hamber is the best stuff by far. It says so on their advert.Comment
-
Ha ha! It's probably my application but will see what happens. I was told a few years ago phosphoric acid would do the job but when you read up some say acids can eat in to the metal? Maybe that's just the makers of these rust removal products saying that mind! Who knows!
Comment
-
What does Hydrate 80 do? (No sales patter Rob
) While it was shinny metal i'd a primed it with red oxide. If its down to clean metal when primed you shouldnt get any rust back through.
Last edited by S49; 7 November 2022, 07:45 PM.Comment
-
Just looked it up, rust converter, ahh like that fucking awful Krust from Hammershite. Best rust converter is an angle grinder., If its shinny metal and you paint it, it dont rust. It only comes back if its still there to come back.I was disappointed when the rust showed through the Bilt Hamber on S49 but i spect i hadnt got it all out.Comment
Comment