My second T4, operation de-chav

[regcheeseman]

Had a few issues installing the cupboards, the install was no problem apart from the framework running too close to the fusebox, but only once I'd got it all installed and the wiring hooked up do I find out the inverter will power up fine but doesn't turn on.
The inverter is built into the cupboards, I had to take the big unit out and take apart some of the framework to get the unit out, open it up and find a displaced plug inside.

All back together and it works! Even better it seems that the planar heater is much more powerful with the pump not leaking, it chucks out some heat now.

So... cupboards in and screwed down, I can take the seats back out and clean the floor ready for flooring




Next I cut and re-fitted the thermal/acoustic foam



started to put down the laminate floor



I cant put the sides on the units yet because I'm still waiting for the chinesium wrap vinyl to arrive.


There was another little issue, as my eldest put it "ha - dad did a stupid" and my wife backed me up with "oh dear, I thought you were supposed to be an engineer"


Basically the seats fit in lovely against the units, mm perfect alignment.



Now, the back of the seats folds forwards and flat to form part of the bed surface

To allow the back to fold flat, first the seat base has to hinge up out of the way......




Or at least it should, if it didn't hit the cupboard first.


more mods required.

[Activ8]

It's still brilliant Reg!
Can you easily remove the bases and either store them whilst it's being used as a bed or utilise them in the bed system in some way?

Modify the hinges so.it lifts higher then folds / tilts forward?

Surely it's not "a redo / start again"?

Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[regcheeseman]

It's still brilliant Reg!
Can you easily remove the bases and either store them whilst it's being used as a bed or utilise them in the bed system in some way?

Modify the hinges so.it lifts higher then folds / tilts forward?

Surely it's not "a redo / start again"?

Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

It's only the one seat that hits the cupboard - the other side is next to the slide door so no cupboard and lots of space

It's not redo, first thought was to put a scallop into the side of the cupboard but then it would be a big chunk to cut out and the seat would only fold in one location unless I cut a chunk out the length of the cupboard. So then I looked at options for the hinge...

Eventually came up with a plan and made these at work Friday from some 15mm bar


The hinge bolts will be replaced with these welded in and the outer bit of the hinge is a thick walled tube with a 10mm slot in it - the bits above measure 10mm across. When the hinge is rotated it will get to a point where it can be separated. The seat base can then lift away and the seat back then fold flat.

My phone crashed the other day and I had to factory reset it and lost a few photos - this was one of them



The two lower switches energise two sockets nearer the back of the van, the seats plug into these sockets which supply the heated seats and inbuilt USB charging points. I put switches in because I can guarantee the kids will get out and leave the seats on, inside of wasting my breath telling them to turn them off I can just flick the switches off.
The top switch turn the planar heater on and off.

You can just about make out the control panel for the inverter and it's inbuilt voltmeter for the leisure battery.

Did some more floor today



You can see the inverter tucked above the leisure battery and the planar heater in front of that, under the cubbyhole. The sockets for the seats are behind the leisure battery, recessed into a silver box so the cupboard face remains flush and seats can slide fully back.

[Activ8]

How do the two "hinge" bars made change the opening transition of the seat base?

Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[fife t4 new]

That floor would have been a nippy with all those cuts. Well scribed at the step! What's the aerosol your using? I've never used anything laying laminate? Interested to see how this hinge works.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Just T4s

[regcheeseman]

How do the two "hinge" bars made change the opening transition of the seat base?

You'll see.... the design allows the hinge to separate, I have 40 degrees of movement on the seat as it is, so the seat will lift up about 30 degrees to a point where the flats align with the slot in the outer section of the hinge and then you pull the seat base off.

That floor would have been a nippy with all those cuts. Well scribed at the step! What's the aerosol your using? I've never used anything laying laminate? Interested to see how this hinge works.

Cutting the bits between rails was pretty easy, just measure the gap and bash a load out on the sliding compound saw. Tricky bit was the bit with the notches cut out to accomadate the end sections of the rails.

Spray contact adhesive was used mostly to lay the acoustic foam, I did put a bit on the floor to stop sections slipping about.

[regcheeseman]

Little persuasion with a nylon hammer and the two parts clicked into place nicely as the 0.5mm turned down sections on each end clipped into the existing holes on the frame.



Now I just need to run a couple of plug welds onto the ends of the bar.

[regcheeseman]

The bars welded in situ and painted, plug added to disconnect the seat heater pad.



The other bits welded onto the other half of the seat and the slots trimmed



And the two halves joined together, the carpet suffered from the heat of the welding.

[fife t4 new]

Top job. I couldn't see how it worked in my head but I get it now. At work we use flame proof mats to protect stuff from our blowtorch when soldering. Maybe would've saved the carpet

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[regcheeseman]

Top job. I couldn't see how it worked in my head but I get it now. At work we use flame proof mats to protect stuff from our blowtorch when soldering. Maybe would've saved the carpet

Sent from my SM-G960F using Just T4s

Yeah - I have one.....couldn't be arsed to go and get it, thought 'nah it'll be fine' - then it was too late. You'll not see it anyway.

[Activ8]

Lovely job.

Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[regcheeseman]

Fiver for a new door runner, the old one was scraping its way through the metalwork.



Decided while the door step moulding was off I should fit the new one

Fitting was the usual a clash off optimism over experience - I should have sided with experience, I'm never one for optimism....

First button hex bolt rounded, I knew I should have gone straight for the impact driver rather than hoping the allen key would do the job. Impact driver, big hammer, bosh bosh bosh job done in about 10 minutes

Maybe it'll last the 4 years the previous cheap shitty ebay pattern part did.

[frenchdna]

Love it Reg.

big hammer wins every time.

[regcheeseman]

Finally got around to finishing my cupboards, I've had the panels cut for months. I'm going to wrap them so they need a coat of something to seal the wood and allow the vinyl to stick, some varnish should do

Now time to wrap them with the not-particularly-cheap chinese wrap, first test section and it's awful, although not visible until wrapped, every blemish in the varnish shows through really badly, so I peeled off the vinyl and flatted the varnish back with some 400 grit and tried again, this was better.

Turns out the not-so-cheap vinyl is in fact cheap shite and all the reverse edges start to lift and peel so I had to superglue the edges down.

Took 10 minutes to apply a few beads of sticks like turbo to the framework in the van and press the panels into place.

Job done.

[damont4]

Looks nice and tidy in there very business class

Finally got around to finishing my cupboards, I've had the panels cut for months. I'm going to wrap them so they need a coat of something to seal the wood and allow the vinyl to stick, some varnish should do

Now time to wrap them with the not-particularly-cheap chinese wrap, first test section and it's awful, although not visible until wrapped, every blemish in the varnish shows through really badly, so I peeled off the vinyl and flatted the varnish back with some 400 grit and tried again, this was better.

Turns out the not-so-cheap vinyl is in fact cheap shite and all the reverse edges start to lift and peel so I had to superglue the edges down.

Took 10 minutes to apply a few beads of sticks like turbo to the framework in the van and press the panels into place.

Job done.

Sent from my JSN-L21 using Just T4s