My second T4, operation de-chav

[regcheeseman]

[QUOTE=Activ8;60461]I thought about this this morning...
We're going about this wrong, our turbos are obviously setup differently. IC pipework etc.. so we need to go back to a standard K14
Just looked up the set-up for the K14. As follows;
Angle a (compressor housing) 265º
Angle ß (turbine housing) 175º
Settings Waste gate (pressure) 0 bar
Settings Waste gate (lifting rod) 3.0 mm
So if you clock the compressor housing on the manifold this will help us set the actuator arm positioning and length to wastegate.
Might be worth measuring the length of the actuator arm in case its been borrowed from another turbo?
I'll compare later tonight as I'm out and away from home.
So, I read 3mm as the balance of thread at the end., this should now be 0 bar and a closed wastegate.
If at engine off your wastegate is open I think we can assume that its bent, blocked or damaged. Only 2 weeks until the VolvoK14's fitted.
I'm thinking its not "just" the turbo thats the problem.... 9psi , 12psi - have you de-cat'd the van?

I prefer to ease the boost in and ramp it up after 1200-1500rpm to save the gearbox and clutch.
Maybe "fierce" was too strong a word, but I added more %hold for a higher boost in the lower rev range and wanted to offer some warning.

I would read the 3.0mm as the amount of preload wound onto the wastegate actuator lever with 0 pressure applied on the can and the lever in the closed position

No cat fitted.

With the new N75 enhanced map installed the boost does come in harder and earlier - BUT it's still doing exactly as it did before, during constant steady acceleration through the rev range the boost rises with some reluctance to around 9psi, stays there for maybe a second then drops back to around 7 and stays there as you continue building revs, then as you change up and continue accelerating it does exactly the same - up to 9 then drops off to 7.


[QUOTE=Activ8;60512]

That looks like it's not fitted - any chance you could undo the nuts, hold the arm in the shut position and take another picture.
[/QUOTE ]
I didn't have a square to hand but it looks like a perfect 90deg to the face of the DP.



Actuator arm untensioned is 136mm from the exposed base to threaded end.

Thanks for the info - I'll double check

Very tempted to pull the turbo and try to sort it just for my own sanity.

[Activ8]

I would read the 3.0mm as the amount of preload wound onto the wastegate actuator lever with 0 pressure applied on the can and the lever in the closed position.

Agreed , we're on the same page.

No cat fitted.

Do you think the exhaust or inlet manifold ports could be crudded up reducing the boost?

With the new N75 enhanced map installed the boost does come in harder and earlier - BUT it's still doing exactly as it did before, during constant steady acceleration through the rev range the boost rises with some reluctance to around 9psi, stays there for maybe a second then drops back to around 7 and stays there as you continue building revs, then as you change up and continue accelerating it does exactly the same - up to 9 then drops off to 7.

So 9psi is being generated and thats your lot....
Do you want a new map where the boost is a flat requirement - say 1 bar, so you know exactly whats being requested across the entire rev range?

Very tempted to pull the turbo and try to sort it just for my own sanity.

Yeh, and mine...
Whats your thoughts on Sausages RR feedback?

[regcheeseman]

Agreed , we're on the same page.

Do you think the exhaust or inlet manifold ports could be crudded up reducing the boost?

So 9psi is being generated and thats your lot....
Do you want a new map where the boost is a flat requirement - say 1 bar, so you know exactly whats being requested across the entire rev range?

Yeh, and mine...
Whats your thoughts on Sausages RR feedback?

Don't bother with the map - I think that turbo has to come off. I think I have two to do now....

I'm glad the RR session didn't spot any silly mistake by me and pointed at the thing I originally suspected.

However what I don't get is how it is causing the limp, I know the boost from his turbo can go up to 20 psi but is now being controlled at 15psi. If the actuator is sticking, it also sounds like it is opening and controlling the boost - so not sure how it is causing the limp mode at 3k plus, unless it's not opening enough, perhaps it needs a nice leaky wastegate turbo fitted? Might know where there's one available for a reasonable price.....


Back to my van - do you think that instead of the leaky wastegate, a leaky N75 could be opening the wastegate? There again even with the wastegate actuator disconnected I still only saw 11-12psi max.

[Activ8]

Don't bother with the map - I think that turbo has to come off. I think I have two to do now....

So, run it at 9psi until Xmas?

I'm glad the RR session didn't spot any silly mistake by me and pointed at the thing I originally suspected.

Testament to the way you do things. It's a great thread and conversion. Will it inspire others to have a go?

However what I don't get is how it is causing the limp, I know the boost from his turbo can go up to 20 psi but is now being controlled at 15psi. If the actuator is sticking, it also sounds like it is opening and controlling the boost - so not sure how it is causing the limp mode at 3k plus, unless it's not opening enough, perhaps it needs a nice leaky wastegate turbo fitted? Might know where there's one available for a reasonable price.....

It was also Intermittent and in different gears so at differing rpm? Limp mode would be caused by over / under boosting from the specified boost , the tolerances are small. Surely you'll be rebuilding the K14 and working on a twin turbo setup with it? The K14' s are pretty good for a 40 year old design

Back to my van - do you think that instead of the leaky wastegate, a leaky N75 could be opening the wastegate? There again even with the wastegate actuator disconnected I still only saw 11-12psi max.

Exactly, you closed the wastegate and still only got a reported 12psi. I reckon it's good for twice that so where's the other 12psi gone? Your gauge is on the housing, right so it's s clean / true figure if the gauge is good. Check the MAP sensor on a run compared to the gauge. The new N75 map changed the boost outcome as predicted, 9psi if reporting correct , falls short of the specified boost request so limp mode would be triggered. Pipework leak / split, Compressor wheel or turbine knackered , damaged wastegate, blocked manifolds, a back pressure, head leak? Can you move the boost gauge around the pressured circuit?

Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[regcheeseman]

Broke it.



I was going to fix it - but it was such a twat to get out I may as well fit the volvo one. Rather that fit the original back in for a couple of weeks.





The wastegate looks fine, but the inlet manifold gasket is missing across two ports.


Now - how do I get the oil return to work with the volvo turbo????

[Activ8]

Broke it.
I was going to fix it - but it was such a twat to get out I may as well fit the volvo one.

Sounds sensible, albeit you'll miss out on how good the standard AJT once mapped is! Which exhaust manifold are you fitting?

The wastegate looks fine, but the inlet manifold gasket is missing across two ports.

There's your missing boost culprit - very simple but kills the power. Has it burnt off or broken off? Which inlet are you fitting? The 63mm Volvo inlet flows better & might work better with your FMIC pipework but it WILL get in the way when changing the pump belt!

Now - how do I get the oil return to work with the volvo turbo????

Initially I made the return from the Volvo flange and its pipework & then some oil hose to join to the T4 original. Got the specs somewhere of a braided hose I got made up afterwards. Will send info later - once I've cleared the snow!!!



Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[Activ8]

Got the specs somewhere of a braided hose I got made up afterwards. Will send info later - once I've cleared the snow!!!

Sorry, cannot find the specs of the flange to braided hose I had made up, but I'll call in at the shop that made them up this week and get the info and put a couple on order.

[regcheeseman]

Did you just run braided hose the full length of the original save the small section at the end to mount onto the turbo.

I think with a section of the original hard line cut out I can weld the two sections back together to make a solution.

Do you loose the breather connection to the intake pipe?

[Activ8]

Did you just run braided hose the full length of the original save the small section at the end to mount onto the turbo.

Yes. Although 1 braided house works it could do with a joint in it so the turbo end can be secured and tightened up before fitting to the manifold as its a tight space. Easier for working from the top too. Had a couple of leaks on more than one occasion at the oil return flange/turbo.

I think with a section of the original hard line cut out I can weld the two sections back together to make a solution.

Yep I initially didn't do that but used M12 oil line and secured it. A second fitting it got welded.

Do you loose the breather connection to the intake pipe?

I made an adaptor for the AJT manifold as I found it easier for future proofing than the Volvo manifold, (plus got crud buildup on Cyl 5).
Kept the breather initially, found the inlet pipework from the V70 (63mm) works a treat and its got the same pipe dia. of T4 breather & MAF.
The Volvo V40 inlet also works perfectly, right length and diameter for the standard MAF , again same breather type dia pipework.
Got a catch tank system running at the mo, as I don't like the oil breathing back into my turbo, IC & pipework as it reduces flow and pressure over time.
Also switched to the Volvo cylinder head cover, 1. its got an additional and tighter alloy oil deflector inside 2) loses the oil filler neck so more pipework space 3) moves the oil breather on the head cover to the right hand side for catch tank and away from my pipework runs.
Don't make a bracket yet for the dipstick if you've fitted the Volvo inlet until you get the inlet side sorted. Its tight with the Volvo pipework

Let me know when you want the new map. Will send Stage 0, then we can ramp it up if you feel the need!

[regcheeseman]

This one?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-V70...IAAOSwg3FUbMqI

[Activ8]

This one?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-V70...IAAOSwg3FUbMqI

Nope. This one ebay# 152791601567

Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[regcheeseman]

Cheers! Ordered.

Map would be useful - need to get the van up and running quick as possible.

Dunno if I should do the injectors now or not - have blamed the non starting on the turbo and gasket to buy me some time to take the van apart, so may as well do them while I have it apart.

Where do I fit the needle lift injector?

[Activ8]

Will send the new map over Mon/Tue. It's so f'in cold here I cannot get my engine/fuel to temp to time it properly so need to get it indoors tomorrow to finish off. Note to self - change belts etc... only in the Spring/Summer!

I'd suggest leaving the Stanadynes in until it's running right and clean with the new turbo setup. You don't need the extra fuelling. It's only 90 mins to swap them out so hold off - just in case - the problem(s) continue.

Have you got ACV (Cyl5) or Volvo (Cyl4) injector pipework for the needle lift sensor? Leaving it at Cyl4 is easier for access / maintenance. The AJT pipes might work but I haven't compared the ID size against the other two.

Have you loaded the test map to your work mates 03 plate yet?

Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[Activ8]

Email sent with new Volvo turbo map.

[Activ8]

Email sent with new Volvo turbo map.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]6941[/ATTACH]

I'll iron out the little bhp kink at 4k ish once its loaded and road tested.
Probably touching 170 with some tweeks.