Hi my name is Sennen! Nice to meet you all!

[S49]

I hope the paint that don't react sticks as well as that that did. I had to resort to a flap wheel.

[S49]

Ffing phone I appear to have added my bonnet pics to Jezzs thread instead of Blindfaith Two. Sorry mate

[Jezz85]

Ffing phone I appear to have added my bonnet pics to Jezzs thread instead of Blindfaith Two. Sorry mate

No worries brother!


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[Jezz85]

Does anyone know where to get hold of the dimensions for ply lining? I’ve been quoted £375 to ply the whole van but figure I save a couple of hundred by doing it myself or is it not worth the bother?


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[Jezz85]

And does anyone know where to get ahold of no 6 on the brake pressure regulator? Has anyone got a line in 3D printing new ones?


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[Activ8]

I believe the T4 interior plan dimensions are in either the tech or download sections.
Cardboard box templates should see it done for a fraction of the quoted price.

[Jezz85]

I am making progress, I promise! I just never seem to find the time to take any photos. Either that or my progress isn't photographable!!

I'm in need of some more help from the T4 gods that you all are...

Currently trying to get the dash back in and having some issues figuring out where some of the wires go to... I f you recognise any, it would be amazing if you could help me out!!

No 1: What is this purple number? I can't find it's male friend anywhere, is it what a computer plugs in to ?



No 2: This comes from the heater controls, there's a label on it from the previous owner saying it goes to the engine - is that right?



No 3: this yellow female connector on the near side?



No 4: This black female connecter with a yellow wire coming out of it that is handily labelled "cable No 1"



No 5: A green female connecter that seems to be better placed towards the underside of the fuse board


No 6: This is the female connector that comes down from the interior lights - I can't find her male friend...



No 7: brown female end



No 8: Any of these three... Two greenies and a blackie... One of the greenies seems to want to slot in to the back of the green relay but I feel that might just be too simples...

[Activ8]

First one is your OBD port. Sits in a plastic shroud under the steering wheel. The upper and lower plastics were both in your earlier pics.

[Activ8]

Try this for the fusebox resource. It's a common setup. Plugs tend to be unique to the position occupied. There's a sliding lock at the side of the fusebox that helps to hold them in and to remove them.

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

[huskyman]

Hi. You will have some odd ones left as there are spare wires on most t4s that don't come with all accessories from factory

[S49]

No 1 is the obd port. Goes in the column trim or dash age depending. Its what a code reader plugs into. Oh and an emob emulator if you go down that route to fix that problem. There are lots of "spare" wires on a T4 loom so take your time reconnecting, best to try with something not plugged in rather than chance it in the wrong place.

[Jezz85]

Try this for the fusebox resource. It's a common setup. Plugs tend to be unique to the position occupied. There's a sliding lock at the side of the fusebox that helps to hold them in and to remove them.

http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

This is great! Thanks Activ8

Next issue - every time I make some forward progress, more issues come up! I think someone made a phrase about it, maybe they were a T4 owner?



So, now that I've plugged the rear lights in, the offside brake light is permanently on!! Can anyone shine any light on how to resolve this?

And I've got the interior lights working but can't get them to switch on and off with the opening of the doors - any bright ideas for this?


No puns intended...

[Jezz85]

And here are some photos of where we're currently at:

Just got the steels refurbed, jury is still out on the colour but we've convinced ourselves it makes it look like a beach cruiser. Maybe if we feel flush in the future we might change them to cream... The engine is now in apart from the intercooler and new brake lines throughout.



We've changed all the locks as we had no keys (and had to replace springs in some of the locks). Now the only problem we're having is with the ignition key - got a set from heritage and the ignition barrel doesn't want to play ball...

The interior is coming along nicely, we've actually got some ply flooring now and the wheel arches are insulated too



And this is the first rust fix of many. Need to get under the van and do some too but wanted to get all the interior done before we insulated... Didn't have any of the original colour and figured we'd cover it with a plastic cover at some point so just went with some hammerite



We've resprayed the door cards too but I haven't got any photos of them yet so you'll have to wait

[Jim24]

....And I've got the interior lights working but can't get them to switch on and off with the opening of the doors - any bright ideas for this? No puns intended...

Remove and clean up the door switch contacts carefully - check with a multimeter before refitting.

The earth contact is made via the switch mounting screws, so the same again here, then I use silicon grease to pack and waterproof the contacts with afterwards. This has always worked 100% for me, and long-term too, (not just for Christmas), despite motorcycles' electrical wiring connections and switches being particularly susceptible.

If they are particularly exposed, an additional good blob of waxoyle on top afterwards works well. For example on the body earth connection, located halfway down the cable from the battery to the earth connection on the engine, on a splice - get underneath with your head between the front n/s wheel and the IP Pump, and follow the cable upwards to the battery box.

[Jezz85]

Remove and clean up the door switch contacts carefully - check with a multimeter before refitting.

The earth contact is made via the switch mounting screws, so the same again here, then I use silicon grease to pack and waterproof the contacts with afterwards. This has always worked 100% for me, and long-term too, (not just for Christmas), despite motorcycles' electrical wiring connections and switches being particularly susceptible.

If they are particularly exposed, an additional good blob of waxoyle on top afterwards works well. For example on the body earth connection, located halfway down the cable from the battery to the earth connection on the engine, on a splice - get underneath with your head between the front n/s wheel and the IP Pump, and follow the cable upwards to the battery box.

Thanks Jim

This is going to be a post-MOT job!! Adding it to the list of many!