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The Caveman Chronicles
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The split banded should be back with me maybe tomorrow but if not sat/mon. Since it looks like dogshit on the shitty alloy spare I haven’t even so much as cleaned it.
I did fit the K&N panel filter though and it’s decent, makes a tad more noise but nothing too much, although it might actually be a lot noisier but I wouldn’t hear a fighter jet 10 feet above me over the exhaust noise anyway so who knows.
I really need to get the pump wound up and setup properly soon but I’ve been pre occupied with the mTdi conversion in the camper. I doubt I’ll touch the work van much for a few weeks other than getting the steelie repainted and stuck on. Pump won’t take long though so maybe I’ll get a night to play with it during the camper job. Who knows.
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I keep thinking about the timing and retarding it back from the current +1.05.
Also, Dynamic Advance, I think I need to shim the spring only to make it firmer, when I think about the Tdi DA it makes me think mine is advancing too soon. The Tdi bleeds pressure off electronically and to give it some advance at cold start, it must be a fairly weak spring as it won’t bleed off pressure and the spring will advance the roller carrier in the pump at idle. Unless I’m misunderstanding the internal pump pressures when running, specifically how it fluctuates under different conditions for example: idle with more of the fuel being released back into the body via the spill collar compared to say at 4K rpm with your foot flat on the floor and the spill collar sending more to the injectors? Will the pump speed create more pressure even with the injectors sending more into the combustion chamber?
I guess my thoughts are keep the DA standard but play around with internally shimming the spring to make it stiffer and make it advance later.
I need to take a look inside the DA cap of the LR pump to see how a factory MTdi looks.
Reg, what do you think about the above?#vanlife
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Originally posted by regcheeseman View PostWont bleed off any pressure at cold start - there is no pressure.
Shimming a spring doesn't change it's firmness (rate) just the pre-load, but may achieve what you want.
And yes, preload and delaying advance is the goal here. Along with retarding static timing a touch.
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From the "Book of Pumps"
Chapter "Axial-piston Distributor Pumps, VE-EDC", vs. "Solenoid valve for Start-of-injection control"
and the Bosch Lord said ,
"The pump interior pressure is dependent upon pump speed. Similar to the mechanical timing device, this pressure is applied to the timing-device piston. This pressure on the timing device pressure side is modulated by a clocked solenoid valve. With the solenoid valve permanently opened (pressure reduction), start of injection is retarded, and with it fully closed (pressure increase), start of injection is advanced. In the intermediate range, the on/off ratio (the ratio of solenoid valve open to solenoid valve closed) can be infinitely varied by the ECU."
A-men
Last edited by Activ8; 7 May 2021, 03:33 PM.
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Originally posted by Activ8 View PostFrom the "Book of Pumps"
Chapter "Axial-piston Distributor Pumps, VE-EDC", vs. "Solenoid valve for Start-of-injection control"
and the Bosch Lord said ,
"The pump interior pressure is dependent upon pump speed. Similar to the mechanical timing device, this pressure is applied to the timing-device piston. This pressure on the timing device pressure side is modulated by a clocked solenoid valve. With the solenoid valve permanently opened (pressure reduction), start of injection is retarded, and with it fully closed (pressure increase), start of injection is advanced. In the intermediate range, the on/off ratio (the ratio of solenoid valve open to solenoid valve closed) can be infinitely varied by the ECU."
A-men
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Finally had a play with the pump tonight, turned fuel up, knocked the top adjuster down on the LDA, re indexed throttle spindle to correct position. Literally a 10 minute job from bonnet up to bonnet down including testing. God bless the mighty mTdi.
Tad more smoke, but spools the turbo like fuck now, I’d say that it spools approx 300-400rpm sooner. Used to be on song at about 60mph in the super tall 5th and now it’s 50mph. Even more driveable now - well chuffed.
The max boost hasn’t raised though and I’ve got smoke so the fuel is there but no joy to be had from fiddling the boost controller. I was scratching my head and considering timing etc but I had other stuff to do so left it for now. I was just about to jump in the shower when I was sat on the thrown and it occurred to me, I get a strange hissing sound at full boost but all the boost pipes seem fine and it’s not a loud hiss and spools great - I figured it was just induction noise from the K&N flat panel and airbox with huge holes in it where the wing vent enters. Anyway, this hiss........I’ve got a blow off valve fitted........I’ll take a look maybe tomorrow night if I get time.
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The BOV is set to the max which I believe is 30psi. I don’t actually need this anymore so I’ll see if I can dig out a spare bit of straight pipe and do away with it. Keep it simple and all that.
Sounds like I have a boost leak when the window is shut and some of the exhaust sound is dampened. Need to swap an ali boost pipe anyway as I crushed it with the t clamp when it wouldn’t seal once, now it’s about 1” internal bore. Haha. Anyway, I’ll check all of them when I look.
During more bullshit and waffling with Reg, he suggested that manifold pressure could be forcing it open, this makes a lot of sense. They don’t run a great deal of boost normally so this is entirely plausible and I’ll be looking into it imminently. I’ll try turbo rebuild for a new one if they’re cheap and the shim it up a bit. I’m aiming for 18-20psi as the K16 flows quite a bit of air so that’ll be grand I reckon. They’re an internal actuator so not as easy to tweak as an standard turbo.
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