Tweet
Saying nowt.
-
Me cago en la madre que te parió! -
It’s the boring Arf was after , he also has a penchant for getting out his feeler gauge and bore scopeOriginally posted by Activ8 View Post
Comment
-
I don't know what I did to gain this, quite frankly, outrageous reputation.
Me cago en la madre que te parió!Comment
-
Delivery this morning of the adjustable actuator I ordered a few weeks back from Taiwan. The 3" compressor housing and the fixings around the casing were unique so all of my existing pressure controlled stock couldn't be used. I want a lot of boost control over the turbo, actuator & wastegate. The compressor wheel will be shifting some serious airmass with the aim to run the turbo at upto 2.2bar/32psi. After a message exchange with Kinugawa in Taiwan (great service) we selected a range of actuator springs to suit their adjustable actuator range and a housing mount suitable for the 3" housing. The van has run 27 psi on the K24 for a year with the ARL Golf 12.9 shortened head bolts fitted. The planned new head will raise the VE and the street(1) cam designed will increase the fuel & exhaust flows.
Springs supplied were 1.0, 1.2, 1.5, 1.7 & 2.0bar. See settings data below. I'll start with the 1.0bar spring to generate the new airmass data and plot the necessary fuel mapping.
My plan is to run the turbo with a 4 bar map sensor but without the N75 control until I can mock up the boost map for this wheel and housing.
Last edited by Activ8; 13 March 2020, 11:59 AM.Comment
-
Why not do something with the electronic linear actuator, you'd have finite control.
Comment
-
You don't have finite control though!Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
From the experiments a year or so ago you cannot completely close or fully open the vanes on a VNT. The electronic actuators have "fail-safes" built in - from memory based on the 5v range, 12% was "closed" and 88% was fully "open", reach <88% and it auto closes to 12%! That 24% is probably the most important. Have you not tried your BMW unit out?
I suppose I could rewrite the electronic actuator chip/prog but whats the point? YET another distraction, plus when I was running a GT23V the vanes clogged quickly with the dense fuelling,cold-startup running, possibly fuel pump &/or injector pressures. So old skool is my chosen way forward.
The ECU maps & N75 I've mapped out with the current K24 so a manual actuator & N75 I can play with, within the constraints of the map type and size.
The turbine wheel on this Greddy turbo is much larger than OEM or yours, so I'm thinking I don't need to bleed off ANY energy - never mind 12% but use it all especially at low revs. If I run the 1bar spring and compare it to a 1bar map and data from the K24 I'm hoping to plot a boost data curve for the fuelling, then grow the map and data as I increase the spring sizes.
According to Greddy the original setup and snail would run 29psi, so the 2bar spring should be perfect, theres a 2.5bar spring too if I can squeeze more out of it.
Comment
-
Picked up the modified SRE clutch spring plate today. Its been upgraded to 600Nm+ according to my man and will make the clutch very heavy to use and the wear life reduced.
I'm hoping to get the upgraded brakes fitted Thursday along with the new tyres and suspension adjusted with the larger profile tyres too. Thanks to Hans for measuring up his various 19" rim and tyre combos.
Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4sLast edited by Activ8; 18 March 2020, 06:37 PM.Comment
-
Some final preparation on the front brakes.... crikey they are heavy - 13kg each approximately - discs must be an additional 9kg each too!
I've tried to replace the fixtures and fittings with stainless steel & mocking up the Touareg braided hoses resulted in them not working with banjo bolts on the ATE cast calipers. Ordered some new hose fittings to modify the hoses. Pulled out the oem fittings and decided I needed a back up ready. Out came the Chinese take-away container, boiling water an 50g of citric acid.... oh mamma this is so good. Dropped the rusty brackets in and the chemical frenzy began....
A few hours later with a little 2nd hand tooth brushing the steel brackets were super clean. Washed off and left to dry. I'll Kurust the parts shortly before painting. Stuck the remaining old parts in the solution (I've sourced and fitted new in the calipers) so the used can be recycled if & when required. You see the silver steel surfaces start to appear in minutes.... all with smell of a hint of lemon.
PS: Don't spill the citric acid solution on granite work surfaces. It'll upset someone.Last edited by Activ8; 17 March 2020, 05:00 PM.Comment
-
Good results, might have to get myself some. How do you dispose of old citric acid?
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4sComment
-
It's food grade acid, so can be tipped down the drain. It continues to desolve rust for a long time so store. Dilute further with boiling water or reheat to reenergize the chemical reaction/agitation. Just wash the parts in clean water before treating or painting. I like Kurust for ease and it needs using up. I haven't tried it outside on exposed van parts yet but will do during isolation! ;-)
Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s
Comment
-
Comment
-
-
-
This is a Derbyshire based "Natural Cleaning Products supplier" Dri-Pak. This link should open up a pdf page with advice for buyers for stores online & offline.
https://www.dri-pak.co.uk/buy/
Search around though and buy in bulk as once you start to use natural products such as citric acid & how good the stuff is you'll be using it regularly. Buy a big tub & lid for larger parts. I've a few sets of the 313mm brakes that I'll be cleaning this way shortly to compare with the hour's of knotted wheel cleaning previous.
Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s
Comment
-
Comment