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If you've a spare AJT/ACV exhaust manifold die-grind the turbo mount to the larger T2 Volvo turbo inlet but after making an adaptor the same size to take the 4 pin studs. There's enough meat in it to do it safely - don't hit the internals too hard or make it to thin! Clean up the ports at the same time. Will take a pic of one on my bench.
The existing T4 oil feed will fit fine, but the return needs to be a hybrid of the Volvo pipe and T4 unless you want to get a braided line made-up. I used some oil hose and banjos and it worked fine (fit the turbo line side before mounting the turbo as there's little room afterwards.
Use the first 20cm of Volvo DP (2.5") to make up a down pipe , some Saab units have a usable DP aswell. I'm using 2.5" flexible exhaust pipe after this which gets me - with 2m length - 2/3rd the way down the van before the next exhaust section or silencer is needed.
The volvo nozzles are 0.210 but will make the sort of power you want so long as they run 220+ bar at 1st stage pop. There's a tolerance on the injector so higher would improve the spray pattern. I've found the injectors run better with smaller nozzles as it keeps the nozzles a lot cleaner, had some good results on the standard AJT injectors too. You cannot tell the difference if I'm honest.
I dont have a spare manifold - I have a spare volvo one
Not sure if I have any of the volvo lines but can get something made - the return aint under a lot of pressure
Haven't got the down pipe - intended making up a full 2.5 stainless system - much the same as I made for dave sausages
The 240s are set up at 230 bar, spray pattern is spot on.
Didn't realise the standynes were ever any good!
The Volvo manifold can be used - I think - but it's very very tight as the mount is further to the right and might foul the firewall. Then there's the DP to squeeze down...
I'll post a pic of the Volvo oil line to give you a heads-up. If I've got any spares you can have one.
The Stanadynes are more efficient than the Bosch units with a more reliable 2 stage fuel delivery. I looked into upgrading them but nobody was interested....
How much would you charge me to clean, balance & set-up 5 injectors with supplied 0.240's ?
The Volvo manifold can be used - I think - but it's very very tight as the mount is further to the right and might foul the firewall. Then there's the DP to squeeze down...
I'll post a pic of the Volvo oil line to give you a heads-up. If I've got any spares you can have one.
The Stanadynes are more efficient than the Bosch units with a more reliable 2 stage fuel delivery. I looked into upgrading them but nobody was interested....
How much would you charge me to clean, balance & set-up 5 injectors with supplied 0.240's ?
Another delivery from Santas grottOh my God what a sh*t hole of a garage ...
2.5tdi AXG Inlet Manifold (ebay.de)
A 66mm bore but shorter than the AHY inlet (why?) & no bend unlike the Volvo inlet so I can make something up that's 76mm (3") to bolt right up at the angles I need for the IC pipework.
Apologies I haven't got a build thread yet and should think about collating all of my pics , fixings and failures as I go along.
Got some new turbos incoming to play with and thought I'd begin doing some prep.
I've been running a Mercedes GT2359V for about 3-4 months, this is a VNT with vacuum actuator using the standard AJT manifold and an adaptor plate, and mapped accordingly.
The van has been running great, 1.4 boost (not gone mad), 1:15AFR, town driving economy, good bhp and lots of torque without any clutch or traction losses.
Anyhow I pulled the turbo off yesterday as the van has been running a little erratic under boost. No errors logged just drivers "feel" moments.
At this point I thought about taking some pics but I was covered in soot and doublegloved - so apologies...
The actuator arm was stiff and restricted so pulled it to pieces only to discover that the soot build up in the vanes is reducing the vane movement.
The stop screw hadn't budged.
OK not a problem, clean it up and it now all works freely, but before I put it back on it got me thinking - should I bin the VNT turbos if they need this sort of maintenance every 3 months?
I'm going to have a play with the AFR's but the soot build up is often down to the switching off procedure and during the engine "cool down" period.
The manifold and adaptor look clean and the turbo exit similar
What to do?
I've recently bought a used GT2559V which is watercooled, so I've just stripped this to make the vane/soot comparison and its relatively clean and free moving.
Anyone else had any similar experiences?
Theres a lot of VNT vane ring failures on turbo diesel cars , ...might it be more practical to take a step back and go 'old skool' turbo - slightly less efficient but more reliable long term?
Might book a rolling road session with 5 or 6 pre-planned AFR maps to see what performs best
Terms Used in this Post VNT Variable-geometry turbochargers (VGTs), (also known as variable nozzle turbines/VNTs), are a family of turbochargers, usually designed to allow the effective aspect ratio (A:R) of the turbo to be altered as conditions change.
AFR Air–Fuel Rratio (AFR) is the mass ratio of air to a solid, liquid, or gaseous fuel present in a combustion process. The combustion may take place in a controlled manner such as in an internal combustion engine or industrial furnace, or may result in an explosion (e.g., a dust explosion, gas or vapour explosion or in a thermobaric weapon).
Inspired by so many on this forum, I've made a decision to start working on the interior of the daily run around. So part 1, driving cab roof lining & an upgrade with this touareg roof console. Found a grey one cheap without the sunroof switch gear. Received this morning , complete with three phone mikes & noise cancelling circuit board. Bonus.
Started to roughly prep a replacement front panel in order to upgrade the daily driver front panel to get more cold air flow into the engine bay.
Had a couple of cans of Tornado red free (the van is paprika red) but waste not want not etc...
Nerdy data alert.... Its all about the volumetric efficiency.... and I'm a sucker for seeking thrills .... new map and mods for flow highs today - not the Arfur type - but a much needed 1300+mg/s of airflow at 2917+rpm and maxxing out the OEM 2.5bar MAP sensor at 2570.4mbar (23psi) (never done this before with an old skool type hairdryer).... n75 duty cycle hitting 96.4%! [emoji851] A good day!
More adjustments plus tweaks to the map today and maxxing out the MAF sensor now hitting 1440+mg/stroke. New requirements for a larger MAF housing , also to look at MAF scaling and bigger bore inlet pipework or 2nd unmetered inlet. Figures being achieved using OEM cast DP housing and 2.5"flexi DP pipework. Can afford now to raise the fuelling once I've ran several more test runs.
I love stuff like this. As you know I'm over in Notts...not far.
I'm hoping to put an intercooler on mine,..but where's the best place to put one? And realistically where will one fit without cutting holes in bumper etc.?
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