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  • Whistling

    So for a few weeks now I've been getting a whistling noise coming from the engine when I accelerate, could it be the turbo? The van still runs as it always has but just wondering what it could be?

  • #2
    Boost leak

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    • #3
      I'm rubbish with engine stuff, is boost leak bad?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Benf View Post
        I'm rubbish with engine stuff, is boost leak bad?
        No, but a PITA as it'll possibly throw the van into limp mode under acceleration. This limits power and revs to 3k.
        Lift the bonnet, and get the Mrs to rev the van to try and locate the "whistle" by ear and during check all the air intake hoses. Start at the airfilter and work your way around via the turbo all the way to the intake manifold. Check the pipework for cuts, damage ensuring the seal clamps are solid and correctly fitted. Check the intercooler for damage , visual signs of dirty air bleeding out, the sensor fixings are good and solid. All clamps should be solid and held firm.
        If thats all good, start at the thin 8mm ish pipe from the turbo snail and check and follow that all the way to the N75, then the lower two tubes back to the turbo actuator and filter to atmosphere or back to the air intake pipe.
        If you find a leak, split etc. mark it up. Tape if used will not hold for long.

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        • #5
          Mine doesn't have an inter cooler, this turbo is off a Volvo 850 and has been fitted to my 91 2.4 engine, I will check all the hoses etc as suggested

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Benf View Post
            Mine doesn't have an inter cooler, this turbo is off a Volvo 850 and has been fitted to my 91 2.4 engine, I will check all the hoses etc as suggested
            Without the IC will make tracking the noise easier but I'd consider fitting an IC if I were you. Itll add more torque and keep the inlet air temps cooler.

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            • #7
              Apologies I didn't realise it was a '91 2.4d turbo converted van so I'd like to change my advice!
              The whistling could be the rust cells having too much fun followed by a frenzied breeding program. My advice would be as previous followed by lots of Italian tuning!
              Originally posted by Benf View Post
              Mine doesn't have an inter cooler, this turbo is off a Volvo 850 and has been fitted to my 91 2.4 engine, I will check all the hoses etc as suggested
              Last edited by Activ8; 11th March 2020, 07:58 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
                Apologies I didn't realise it was a '91 2.4d turbo converted van so I'd like to change my advice!
                The whistling could be the rust cells having too much fun followed by a frenzied breeding program. My advice would be as previous followed by lots of Italian tuning!
                Lmao! Thanks active! Will have a good look around the engine bay tomorrow for any loose or damaged hoses etc

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                • #9
                  12 months last February I noticed a whistle and found the exhaust broken in front of the front silencer. No normal exhaust blow noise as it was silenced by the turbo. I still have the whistle as my exhaust is now a home made side exit job.Basically a straight pipe out the back of the cat . Wouldn't hurt just to have a look at your chimney Ben mate.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by S49 View Post
                    12 months last February I noticed a whistle and found the exhaust broken in front of the front silencer. No normal exhaust blow noise as it was silenced by the turbo. I still have the whistle as my exhaust is now a home made side exit job.Basically a straight pipe out the back of the cat . Wouldn't hurt just to have a look at your chimney Ben mate.
                    Cheers si, another one to look at and eliminate

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                    • #11
                      Mine's been whistling for ages now and overboosting then going into limp mode going up hills if I give it some welly. I found a split intercooler pipe and changed that, the overboosting stopped for a while but is back now so I have ordered some new silicone vacuum pipes and will replace the old one's. Hopefully this will help.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mr Nozzle View Post
                        Mine's been whistling for ages now and overboosting then going into limp mode going up hills if I give it some welly. I found a split intercooler pipe and changed that, the overboosting stopped for a while but is back now so I have ordered some new silicone vacuum pipes and will replace the old one's. Hopefully this will help.
                        Vacuum pipes need to be solid.
                        Pressure pipes can be either.
                        Try adjusting the actuator arm pre-load. Remove half a turn of tension every few days after a drive or three at temp.
                        Common leak is the terrible plastic air inlet into the turbo snail. A couple of applicably sized O rings or some cheap chinky twin ply silicon hose will seal the leak either over the inlet pipe or used as a gasket on the snail inlet.

                        Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
                          Vacuum pipes need to be solid.
                          Pressure pipes can be either.
                          Try adjusting the actuator arm pre-load. Remove half a turn of tension every few days after a drive or three at temp.
                          Common leak is the terrible plastic air inlet into the turbo snail. A couple of applicably sized O rings or some cheap chinky twin ply silicon hose will seal the leak either over the inlet pipe or used as a gasket on the snail inlet.

                          Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s
                          Thanks mate, I'll give the actuator arm pre-load thing a go, erm.....what's it look like? (off to google search now)

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                          • #14
                            This is the actuator.
                            The rod at the rear and base runs to a lever. A spring clip locks the two nuts around the lever arm. Carefully prise off the clip and take a pic (to use as a reference) unwind the nuts half a turn towards the end of the threaded rod. Use the alternate nut to lock the position and return the spring clip.

                            The turbo from new states an actuator preload of 3mm iirc. With the lever closed you turn & tighten (adding preload on the actuator spring) the lower nut 3 full turns. The picture shows this on this used turbo and purely a guide.

                            Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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                            • #15
                              You're a star mate, many thanks

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