Hi guy's.
I own a couple 3 Tonne axle stands but don't really trust them, nor do I like the idea of ramps as it's quite easy to over-drive the ramps, which would be a major disaster, leaving your van beached on two ramps. So, what alternatives are there ? As I need to get under my van for some inspection work ( and maybe some repairs ), I need to do this safely ........ so I came up with the idea of building some 'cribbing blocks'. Much safer than breeze blocks that I've seen other people use. I know breeze blocks seem tough enough, but you go and put over two tonnes on them, and they could crumble ...... on they often do !
So if it helps anybody, here's how I made my ultra safe lifting blocks .......... I was given some off cuts by a builders merchant that were 60mm x 70mm, ideal for the job in hand. I cut 18 lengths to 230mm then glued and screwed them together 'Jenga' style ! If any of you have ever played that 'Jenga' game before, you'll know just how solid that structure is. And then I just topped the top off with a square section of 22mm MDF as a 'spoil board' as MDF is very dense so won't split >>
If you assemble it criss-cross fashion, the wood grain strengthens the structure even more, and by making three different sections you can also make the cribbing block adjustable hight wise. Here you see it with the middle section removed. Each section is glued and screwed together, which gives each section immense strength, and when they're interlocked, there's no chance of them slipping >>
Cribbing block in situ ........ the main reason why you should build one in sections is, lifting the van' front end is different from lifting the rear ........ only two sections are required to lift the front. But my van is lowered, so yours will be different, so if you decide to make some of these, just remember ........ if you need to go higher, make the foot print bigger, like cut each section length to maybe 350mm >>
And because of the suspension travel on the rear, the rear has to be jacked up higher needing that extra section >>
I've only made one cribbing block for the moment as I just needed to remove my Borbet's for refurbishment, but I'll be making another one soon, so I can comfortably get under my van >>
In some of those shots you will have noticed that I have side bars on my van, this is one of the issues of jacking-up a T4 with side bars, as the side bars are bolted to the jacking posts. I can just get away with lifting the van with my rocket lift trolley jack, but once the cribbing blocks are in place I can release the hydraulic jack a little. And remember, never get under a vehicle with just a trolley jack supporting it's weight !
TURK
I own a couple 3 Tonne axle stands but don't really trust them, nor do I like the idea of ramps as it's quite easy to over-drive the ramps, which would be a major disaster, leaving your van beached on two ramps. So, what alternatives are there ? As I need to get under my van for some inspection work ( and maybe some repairs ), I need to do this safely ........ so I came up with the idea of building some 'cribbing blocks'. Much safer than breeze blocks that I've seen other people use. I know breeze blocks seem tough enough, but you go and put over two tonnes on them, and they could crumble ...... on they often do !
So if it helps anybody, here's how I made my ultra safe lifting blocks .......... I was given some off cuts by a builders merchant that were 60mm x 70mm, ideal for the job in hand. I cut 18 lengths to 230mm then glued and screwed them together 'Jenga' style ! If any of you have ever played that 'Jenga' game before, you'll know just how solid that structure is. And then I just topped the top off with a square section of 22mm MDF as a 'spoil board' as MDF is very dense so won't split >>
If you assemble it criss-cross fashion, the wood grain strengthens the structure even more, and by making three different sections you can also make the cribbing block adjustable hight wise. Here you see it with the middle section removed. Each section is glued and screwed together, which gives each section immense strength, and when they're interlocked, there's no chance of them slipping >>
Cribbing block in situ ........ the main reason why you should build one in sections is, lifting the van' front end is different from lifting the rear ........ only two sections are required to lift the front. But my van is lowered, so yours will be different, so if you decide to make some of these, just remember ........ if you need to go higher, make the foot print bigger, like cut each section length to maybe 350mm >>
And because of the suspension travel on the rear, the rear has to be jacked up higher needing that extra section >>
I've only made one cribbing block for the moment as I just needed to remove my Borbet's for refurbishment, but I'll be making another one soon, so I can comfortably get under my van >>
In some of those shots you will have noticed that I have side bars on my van, this is one of the issues of jacking-up a T4 with side bars, as the side bars are bolted to the jacking posts. I can just get away with lifting the van with my rocket lift trolley jack, but once the cribbing blocks are in place I can release the hydraulic jack a little. And remember, never get under a vehicle with just a trolley jack supporting it's weight !
TURK
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