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  • 16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal
    Possible Symptoms

    Engine shuts off
    Engine doesn't start
    Tachometer / Rev Counter inoperative
    Glow Plug Indicator Lamp (K29) flashes

    Possible Causes

    Engine Speed Sensor (G28) loose
    Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty

    Possible Solutions

    Check Engine Speed Sensor (G28)

    Special Notes

    The Engine Speed Sensor (G28) is also used as a reference sensor for the crankshaft position.
    Check the wiring to/from the sensor and engine control module to rule out harness and module damage due to engine oil or coolant from a failed sensor or tensioner.

    Comment


    • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
      11.1 KG for the fly
      , so shaving of roughly 2.5KG, interesting ....

      Comment


      • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
        16706/P0322/000802 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): No Signal
        Possible Symptoms

        Engine shuts off
        Engine doesn't start
        Tachometer / Rev Counter inoperative
        Glow Plug Indicator Lamp (K29) flashes

        Possible Causes

        Engine Speed Sensor (G28) loose
        Engine Speed Sensor (G28) faulty

        Possible Solutions

        Check Engine Speed Sensor (G28)

        Special Notes

        The Engine Speed Sensor (G28) is also used as a reference sensor for the crankshaft position.
        Check the wiring to/from the sensor and engine control module to rule out harness and module damage due to engine oil or coolant from a failed sensor or tensioner.
        I've got 3 spare ones on the shelf - bet it's wiring though.

        Runs just fine now???

        Comment


        • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
          Deleted the immo anyway - then I spotted something related to my flashing glow plug light....
          So.... if I write a map file to eeprom, is that how I've screwed up my ECU?
          The VAGCommander Flash function is for using with an additional chip programmer, ie flash a new chip then soldering a replacement chip like Sausages ECU.
          No, you haven't messed up your ECU. How many keys have you got adapted to the ECU? The flashing might be related to the key.

          Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
          The new ecu continued to start intermittently and die so I gave up and put my original ECU back in and it's doing the same thing as well - starts and dies like an immo, so I read the codes and get the same as above with a crank sensor error.
          So I remove and refit the ECU a few times, and wiggle the wires about and eventually it starts and runs fine.
          aha - dodgy connection you say? my thought too, but once it's running you an wiggle the wiring about as much as you like and it'll run perfectly.
          Sorted then! A wiggle to seat it properly and the Cheeseman magic shines through.

          Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
          Thought I'd get started on the clutch this evening but it didn't happen.
          But when Reg, theres work to be done!

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
            The VAGCommander Flash function is for using with an additional chip programmer, ie flash a new chip then soldering a replacement chip like Sausages ECU.
            No, you haven't messed up your ECU. How many keys have you got adapted to the ECU? The flashing might be related to the key.
            I've one chip - not fitted to any key, ran like this for a while with no flashy flashy



            Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
            But when Reg, theres work to be done!
            Got home at gone 9 tonight, wasn't starting work then.

            Hoping to do it over the weekend - boss may have other plans which means it'll be half done and unusable by Sunday evening, which also means next week I'll be on my tredder, which also means it'll be blowing a gale and pissing down all week.

            Deep joy.


            I went for a fairly long drive today, knowing the clutch is coming out anyway I took it less gently, driving along like it was an automatic, drive, sliiiip, drive, sliiiip - seemed like it was down on power as well. Just wanna get it sorted...
            Last edited by regcheeseman; 17 February 2018, 01:18 AM.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
              I've one chip - not fitted to any key, ran like this for a while with no flashy flashy





              Got home at gone 9 tonight, wasn't starting work then.

              Hoping to do it over the weekend - boss may have other plans which means it'll be half done and unusable by Sunday evening, which also means next week I'll be on my tredder, which also means it'll be blowing a gale and pissing down all week.

              Deep joy.


              I went for a fairly long drive today, knowing the clutch is coming out anyway I took it less gently, driving along like it was an automatic, drive, sliiiip, drive, sliiiip - seemed like it was down on power as well. Just wanna get it sorted...
              Once the clutch is sorted we'll work on doing some more logruns and tweaking the map. Did another run this week in Colin01332's and made a small map adjustment and a tweak - had his 4th gear pulling like 3rd and we're only running 2.3bar (18.8psi).

              Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
                Once the clutch is sorted we'll work on doing some more logruns and tweaking the map. Did another run this week in Colin01332's and made a small map adjustment and a tweak - had his 4th gear pulling like 3rd and we're only running 2.3bar (18.8psi).
                Sounds good, need to sort the perceived lack of air flow out - or did you think that was a semi limp mode?

                On with the clutch,

                Took a look on google for how to do the clutch, some half arsed post lifted straight from autodata (no real use) that quoted all manner of VW special tools.

                It also said I need to drop the subframe but that's far too much hassle.

                By 11 this morning it's looking like this, all the bolts undone on the gearbox, just the driveshafts to shift.



                Can't move the bottom ball joints because I need a M14 12 spline bit and my two sets only go to M12

                Tried to split the bottom ball joint off the hub carrier, even had to bust out my colour coded show jack



                - got it shifted but wrecked the ball joint. Never mind as it needed replacement anyway.

                Aout this time the missus turned up with a 14 splined bit from the shop, and the driveshafts are out.

                At this point I sped far too long in realising there's no way it's coming out with the subframe in place - so I have to drop that.

                It's now late afternoon and the box is out.

                Shortly followed by the clutch and flywheel

                This is how I lock up a flywheel to undo the bolts



                Tried to fit a new crank seal, oiled it all up well, it picked up on the way in and bent, turning it to scrap - off to the shop for another.

                By the time I got back I'd had enough, light was going and it was starting to rain - time to give up.

                Comment


                • Nice1 Reg, that's very impressive for 1 man on his drive and a Swiss Army knife. Nah - I'm not referring to the clutch but asking and then actually receiving a spline socket collection & delivery via the Mrs. That short break worked wonders! [emoji6]

                  Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

                  Comment


                  • Got the seal, fitted it fine.

                    The two bolts up from the sump are 6mm, this seal housing is M7 tapped - now this variation has caught me out before so it's not a new one, ironically the two seal housing in my in are M6.

                    How many M7 cap head bolts have I got in stock? Chances of buying some on a Sunday?

                    0 on both counts.


                    Never mind - fitted the flywheel and clutch and did the six gear mod - not forgetting to drop half a litre of rank stinking oil onto the garage carpet. Typically, didn't spill a drop outside.

                    Gave up early and went for a walk with the family.

                    As well as doing the clutch, I've now got a list of other jobs to do....

                    Chassis has surface rust under the shock mount plates, plus a patch breaking out on the back of the wheelarch.

                    Intercooler needs to be replumbed wih different pipe routing around the aternator, which means re-locating a load of other pipes and wires.

                    Also going to pull the loom partly and replace the wires from the crank sensor as I know that'll let me down eventually - though you'd think if there was an iffy connection I'd get an intermittent signal type fault code flag up and I've never seen one. But I'm wondering if my jumpy timing graph could be related to the crank sensor.

                    Comment


                    • You sir are a busy man!! All jobs to be done only once tho eh


                      Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s

                      Comment


                      • Gearbox now bolted to engine - mostly.

                        Subframe now attached to van - ish

                        Need to go round and torque up the bolts - once I can get either of the gearbox mounts fitted, it's currently sat on a jack about an inch from lining up to the mount.

                        Comment


                        • All gearbox mounts fitted, output shaft extension bracket bolted up as are the driveshafts.

                          Two M7 bolts turned up in the post, so they were fitted in the two awkward holes behind the flywheel.

                          Subframe torqued up to chassis and steering rack connected.

                          I noted that another captive nut for the steering rack had made a bid for freedom - that's 3 of the four now. So I sorted that as well.

                          I even test fitted the new section of intercooler pipe and it's a vast improvement on the compromised pipework I had in there before. Because the pipe ran between the alternator and the front cross member I had to flatten the metal pipe quite a bit to get the required clearance, now the pipe can run with no such flow restriction.

                          Comment


                          • Half day today - time to crack on, it's bleeding cold but sunny; who said the sun shines on the righteous



                            Some poorly treated rust has been annoying me for a while, this time I'll try and keep it at bay




                            Also the chassis rails are showing some rusty marks under the shock mounts - wish I could get some new shock mounts from somewhere, apparently there's some bloke on facebook.





                            The first move was a wire brush knot wheel on a grinder which tend to rip the rust off fairly quickly, leaving a pitted surface, but every one of those pits contain rust and it'll come back



                            Next step was to use a flap wheel in the grinder to take it back some more and then go over it with a coarse scotchbrite wheel in the same grinder




                            Mostly shiny metal, but still some pitting - can't really take out anymore metal

                            I hate miracle rust treatments, they are mostly bullshit, but if the prep work is properly done beforehand, then bilt hamber stuff is the stuff



                            couple of coats and 24 hours before the paint goes on.
                            Last edited by regcheeseman; 23 February 2018, 11:14 PM.

                            Comment


                            • excellent work reg. This is what worries me about my van. The little bits of rust that might one day become something scary

                              Comment


                              • So while I'm waiting,

                                The intercooler pipe ran past the alternator and the front crossmember and was flattened for clearance - not ideal for airflow




                                I need to run the pipe up past the pulley but the space is occupied by the power steering pipe and bits of loom




                                A couple of p clips, the loom sections clipped to the back of the fan housing and the power steering pipe moved and clipped in a different place on the chassis rail




                                Now the intercooler elbow can run through a better route




                                It was now getting dark and I had gone well past being a bit chilly so had to leave it nearly finished, a pipe to cut and finish before making the final connection

                                Comment

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