My second T4, operation de-chav

[regcheeseman]

My pic shows the standard AJT K14 actuator, the thread length shown was with the turbo off the van, so I know its sealing the wastegate
Won't over tightening it restrict the N75 functionality? ie more pressure required to budge it, where as less allows the N75 to do its job at ALL the pressures mapped.

Not normally - I think the N75 is opening the wastegate too easily - if I go too far I guess I'll get control pressure deviation fault codes.

Does the van drive above 3k rpm?
Can you check the MAF make sure the correct one is fitted, and the airflow direction is correct.

Yep correct MAF - sure the direction is OK.... possibly.

That would be great, not sure what versions you get with the hardware but handy if we're using the same versions and I/F.

With the hardware you get broken versions - in my experience.

Well why not, you're still running a standard 5th right? Try it when you have full boost eh....

Because no revs = no boost and a road too tight/steep and potholed to build any revs in fifth.

[Activ8]

Not normally - I think the N75 is opening the wastegate too easily - if I go too far I guess I'll get control pressure deviation fault codes.

As long as the wastegate is closed the N75 (if its functioning correctly will do the rest) to tight and the driveability is lost, its like sticking an MBC on at a fixed psi.

Yep correct MAF - sure the direction is OK.... possibly.

Had a guy in Mk4 Golf turn up 2 weeks ago wanting a map refund.
Checked the car and the garage he'd gone to after me for a full service and rectify few VCDS faults had fitted the MAF in the wrong direction.
ECU was creating the airflow data.... it would limit the boost! Didn't show up as a fault. Spun it round and instant power....

Because no revs = no boost and a road too tight/steep and potholed to build any revs in fifth.

OK

[regcheeseman]

As long as the wastegate is closed the N75 (if its functioning correctly will do the rest) to tight and the driveability is lost, its like sticking an MBC on at a fixed psi.)

It has, the urgency and smoothness has suffered a bit, but has increased and it pulls harder for longer - or at least it did.....


Hard charging up Limp Sausage hill with about 12 psi on the dial and there was a bang and power all but disappeared.



The whooshing air noise told me the intercooler pipes had blown off - so I limped the rest of the way to work. Assumed it would be the hastily cobbled together IC bypass pipework but it turns out the original VW spring clip had given up on the allard pipe.

[Activ8]

Are you sure your gauge is correct? So holding 9psi but at 12psi the boost is ripping the VW clips and pipe off of an Allard lipped alloy pipe? It doesn't sound right Reg? Whats the plan? Wind the acuator back to standard then do an at temp logrun so we can see the working sensors specified and actual data.... is your MAP sensor the 2 or 4 pin version?

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[regcheeseman]

Are you sure your gauge is correct? So holding 9psi but at 12psi the boost is ripping the VW clips and pipe off of an Allard lipped alloy pipe? It doesn't sound right Reg? Whats the plan? Wind the acuator back to standard then do an at temp logrun so we can see the working sensors specified and actual data.... is your MAP sensor the 2 or 4 pin version?

Not sure on the gauge - but the power isn't there over 2500. It needs more boost - waiting for the new N75 to turn up.

I put the pipe back on earlier, lasted until 3rd gear before going again (maybe a bit over 5 psi), but with the inside of the pipe and the allard pipe now a bit oily, it's never going to hold well - the VW spring clips are not the best - I'll put mikalor clamps on.

I'll set the actuator back as per original diagram.

[regcheeseman]

Loosened the actuator off earlier and you could feel by operating the wastegate lever where the closed position is and if I set it in the same position as the previous photo then the wastegate lever would be open about 10 mm, so I held the wastegate shut and then adjusted the nuts up to suit this position then added a couple of turns of preload onto the closed position.

[Activ8]

Loosened the actuator off earlier and you could feel by operating the wastegate lever where the closed position is and if I set it in the same position as the previous photo then the wastegate lever would be open about 10 mm, so I held the wastegate shut and then adjusted the nuts up to suit this position then added a couple of turns of preload onto the closed position.

Have you been for a drive?

[regcheeseman]

Have you been for a drive?

Did this morning and have a state halfway between the two settings I've had previously, a little less go from very low in the rev range 1k-1.5k and a little more power further up the rev range where originally it ran of of steam.

Still seeing 9psi on the gauge, I'll t in my temporary gauge that I use for setting up boost controllers to get a comparison reading.

When I do a log run, what sort of conditions should I subject the engine to - hard throttle use through the full rev range?

[Activ8]

Did this morning and have a state halfway between the two settings I've had previously, a little less go from very low in the rev range 1k-1.5k and a little more power further up the rev range where originally it ran of of steam.

Did you rewrite the map to your ECU using MPPS?

Still seeing 9psi on the gauge, I'll t in my temporary gauge that I use for setting up boost controllers to get a comparison reading.

Checked the mapped boost limits 0-4800rpm is between Atmospheric +900mbar to +1250mbar. (13.1psi - 18.1psi)
9psi = 620mbar. Semi-Limp is around this figure - not saying its in limp mode but just bear that in mind!

When I do a log run, what sort of conditions should I subject the engine to - hard throttle use through the full rev range?

Run VCDS for recorded faults and clear (if poosible) before run, screen shot faults for ref.
You can setup the log file (save file name as something unique and not the default - REG#_DATE_Run1_030811) before leaving for the run and click start when ready.
Van up to temp per VCDS and not gauge , 3rd or 4th gear WOT (Wide Open Throttle) start at 1200 -1500rpm until your max comfortable rpm (4500 is fine) under load (a long hill is good).
8 - Engine - Channel 03 (Air) , 08 (Fuel) & 11 (Boost) & log your WOT run.

On Ch11 we'll be able to see what the duty cycle of the N75 is.
Next step will be to adjust N75 and run a second WOT, but you must leave everything else alone, so one change only then log and bring boost up to specified.

[Activ8]

The picture I sent of the actuator arm is not a standard K14, its from one of my hybrids I built and uses a larger / different compressor housing, so the arm length is not correct.
Cannot believe how tiny the the K14 is?
New pic of standard K14 to follow.

[Activ8]

Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[Activ8]

Email sent with revised N75 map.
Might be a little fierce in the lower rev range.
Keep me posted....

[regcheeseman]

That looks like it's not fitted - any chance you could undo the nuts, hold the arm in the shut position and take another picture. because if I do the same to mine - theres 30mm exposed thread and I think that may not be quite right.

Email sent with revised N75 map.
Might be a little fierce in the lower rev range.
Keep me posted....

Thanks for that - i'll bet it's not any fiercer. Drove one of my tuned IDI last weekend, probably did the work on it a couple of years ago, could believe how hard it came on boost - something definitely not right with my turbo.

In other news.... bloody thing wouldn't start this morning. Turned over until the battery started to die without it trying to fire once, first time it's ever done that.

Then popped it on jump leads and it fired straight up.

Best get an ignition switch on order.

[Activ8]

That looks like it's not fitted - any chance you could undo the nuts, hold the arm in the shut position and take another picture. because if I do the same to mine - theres 30mm exposed thread and I think that may not be quite right.

I thought about this this morning...
We're going about this wrong, our turbos are obviously setup differently. IC pipework etc.. so we need to go back to a standard K14
Just looked up the set-up for the K14. As follows;
Angle a (compressor housing) 265º
Angle ß (turbine housing) 175º
Settings Waste gate (pressure) 0 bar
Settings Waste gate (lifting rod) 3.0 mm
So if you clock the compressor housing on the manifold this will help us set the actuator arm positioning and length to wastegate.
Might be worth measuring the length of the actuator arm in case its been borrowed from another turbo?
I'll compare later tonight as I'm out and away from home.
So, I read 3mm as the balance of thread at the end., this should now be 0 bar and a closed wastegate.
If at engine off your wastegate is open I think we can assume that its bent, blocked or damaged. Only 2 weeks until the VolvoK14's fitted.
I'm thinking its not "just" the turbo thats the problem.... 9psi , 12psi - have you de-cat'd the van?

Thanks for that - i'll bet it's not any fiercer. Drove one of my tuned IDI last weekend, probably did the work on it a couple of years ago, could believe how hard it came on boost - something definitely not right with my turbo.

I prefer to ease the boost in and ramp it up after 1200-1500rpm to save the gearbox and clutch.
Maybe "fierce" was too strong a word, but I added more %hold for a higher boost in the lower rev range and wanted to offer some warning.

In other news.... bloody thing wouldn't start this morning. Turned over until the battery started to die without it trying to fire once, first time it's ever done that.
Then popped it on jump leads and it fired straight up.
Best get an ignition switch on order.

Its that time of year,... and the van knows it!

[Activ8]

[QUOTE=regcheeseman;60437]
That looks like it's not fitted - any chance you could undo the nuts, hold the arm in the shut position and take another picture.
[/QUOTE ]
I didn't have a square to hand but it looks like a perfect 90deg to the face of the DP.



Actuator arm untensioned is 136mm from the exposed base to threaded end.



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