Project Fudge

[No Sliders]

Had some perspex which I'd planned on dropping over the top of the pics. I'd cut perspex in the past without much luck, but this time I managed to cut my 2 pieces out of 1 single A4 sheet without any foul ups, so I felt pretty smug.
I chose to use a jigsaw with quite a fine blade. I've learnt to cut it in stages and let both the blade and perspex cool down, otherwise it ends up melting and welding itself back together again behind the blade as you go.

I set the depth of my router and freehanded out the insets in which both the pics and perspex will sit within on both partitions. The corners were removed and squared off with the only crap blunt chisel I possess… sometimes I may as well use a flat head screwdriver …and do.
Then checked the fit of my perspex panes…



Dropped one of the frames on top for a rough squizz of how it'd look…



Then drilled some countersunk pilot holes so the frame could be screwed down from the back…




The 'L' bracket was screwed down, and whilst the drill was plugged in I marked up, drilled a hole and made a channel to feed the LED wire through from my recently made offside lighting shelf…



I'm hoping the the cable that feeds my lights will sit invisible in the channel behind the carpet lining. Then I'll be able to push and sandwich it in between the edge of the partition and carpeted ply side of the van to hide it away and run it down to meet the other cables. Fingers crossed.

When coming up with the idea of framing some pics on the partitions, I wanted the carpet to be one seamless piece that covered both the panel and frame at the same time without any cuts separating them.
Carpeting a separate picture frame and simply fixing it up would be too easy, right? Might sound daft, but to me that would just look like a furry carpeted frame separately hung on the panel, opposed to looking like it's actually part of the panel itself and all one thing. Do I like making life easy for myself?… Nup.
One way of doing this would be to place in the pic, perspex and screw down the frame over the top, and then carpet over the lot, but this would mean making ahelluva mess glueing the carpet over everything and potentially scratching the perspex trying to cut the carpet out from the centre of the frame.

So, what I did was cut a piece of carpet big enough to cover the entire panel, place it over the top with the frame in place underneath, then lift up the carpet and roughly mark on the underside of the carpet the placement of the frame in relation to it.
Both carpet and frame were lifted off the panel. The frame could now be stuck down within my markings and the carpet manipulated around it - I had total freedom to work and shape the carpet any which way I wanted from both front and back. The carpet could now be cut out from the centre without fear of scratching anything…



Now my complete carpet sections were ready for the partitions, but with a frame in each of them.
Screwing the frames down onto the panels from the other side with the carpet already attached, also meant that the pics and perspex would be completely shielded and no masking would be necessary when it came to spraying both panel and remaining carpet with HTA.

Before this, I had to fix my pics in place.
A few splodges of my favourite Evo-Stik Serious Glue were dabbed on…



My pics dropped in and pressed down…



Then, both aluminium pics and perspex were thoroughly cleaned way beyond the normal point of cleaning so that no single speck of dust would be sitting between the pic and perspex to torment me. I even had my heat gun on a low setting, blowing away any particles that may have settled during the closing seconds of picking up and placing the perspex on top of the pic for the final time. I know, I know, I keep meaning to make that call for therapy.

Perspex in place, I sealed around the edges with some masking tape…



The reason for this wasn't to hold the perspex in place… no, the frame would do that nicely with 4 screws in from the back. C'mon, who doesn't know that picture frames are where narcissistic, attention seeking little midgets go to die? They find their way in, get themselves comfortable (normally over a tooth or eyeball of someone in the pic), go to sleep, and die with a grin of satisfaction on their vain little midget faces, knowing that their dead presence will become an eternal focus of attention in one of your otherwise favourite pics.
If you've not experienced this, then chances are your pics are sealed with some kind of framing tape.

[S49]

Wow.................

[No Sliders]

The carpet sections were offered up complete with the frames stuck within them and positioned over the pics. Held firmly in place, they were then screwed down with the 4 screws from the opposite side, or in this case, underneath.
The HTA was sprayed on both the ply and carpet without any fear of it going on the pics and perspex, and the carpet worked down flat…



As this side of the panel is the side that gets screwed up to the seat/bed frame, I poked a bradawl through the pre-drilled pilot holes from the other side, punctured the carpet and marked with a black marker where the holes were, otherwise, without doing this, when the carpet gets stuck down on the other side, I'd lose them…



…You can just about make out all 7 marked holes. These markings won't be seen as this side will screwed up to the wooden frame.

Once the carpet was stuck down on the reverse of this side, I used these markings to then push the thin metal rod through to push the carpet up and cut slits over the holes on the other side. This is so I could drive the screws in until they're countersunk and then hide them under the carpet slits as done previously on other pre-carpeted sections.

Both sides on both panels carpeted and cut, I then finished the edges with the black 22mm 'T' trim. Some Evo-Stik was dabbed in the routed groove at the ends, some in the curved sections and a bit here and there before tapping it in with a rubber mallet.
Although this stuff is pretty hard wearing and designed to protect the edges against knocks, I wrapped a rag over the mallet head so I could smack the trim in as hard as I liked without any worries of scuffing it…




I ran an old butter knife along the carpet at the edge just to tuck it away under the 'T' trim.
Glad I went for the 22mm wide stuff, I thought it almost made it look a bit profeshniawl and speshiawl…



The partitions: finished. The floor got a quick sweep where they'd be permanently fixed up and they were offered up…



All screws driven in and hidden, and the 'L' brackets at the top were secured with self tappers to the strengthening frame (repeated on the opposite side).

On the offside I pushed the lighting cable through the partition (and carpet), from the lighting shelf. When it was all the way through, I then fed it back in on itself into the channel to the end where it met at the edge of the panel against the ply lined wall.
I pulled it through the channel until it disappeared completely under the carpet and was now hanging down at the edge of the panel where I managed to push it back in behind and hide it away. This was the best case scenario. It now ran down the edge of the partition as far as I needed to until bringing it back out again to join with some of the other cabling.

Where the cable was pulled through at the top corner and fed back into the channel again is almost invisible…



Hidden away (yellow/brown), until reaching the point of joining its other cable friends…



The remaining 2 brackets on the lighting shelves both sides were screwed up to the partitions… they're now super solid and also help to give the partitions even more stability in return.

The height of the partitions was dictated by the strengthening frame - this is because the platform of the roof bed (not yet fitted), rests on top of it. The partitions were cut to include the thickness of the 'T' trim in their overall height…






All done until the new year… have a good one folks!

[S49]

Brilliant, you dont get anywhere near this sort of build quality with even the most expensive of campers or caravans.

[Activ8]

There's some serious hours of deep thought gone into thinking this through. From buying a no slider to ...... well everything after it!

Sent from my SM-G988B using Just T4s

[No Sliders]

A little while back I set about cutting all the skateboards up that I'd collected during my 'decks for donuts' campaign.

Probably already mentioned this earlier on in my thread, but just to recap; as I travelled up and down the length of Britain from Scotland to England visiting the fam, I'd call into various skate shops along the way and collect a stash of thrashed skate decks from them that would otherwise be chucked in the skip.
In exchange for said decks, I'd hand over a couple of bags of donuts by way of thanks.

This was all done with the vision of recycling them, not only for building the table out of (already covered earlier), but also, now (somehow), building the units from in the van.
Here's one stack from my stash…



So, here's the idea: each individual skateboard will have the centre core cut out of it to leave a workable, consistent sized, rectangular piece of wood. The pieces can then be stacked 2 high to form a standard height unit (if I measure correctly).
They'll also sit side-by-side, so the overall finished look will be a panel effect, i.e., 2 rows made up from multiple decks. The idea here is that there won't be any handles or catches, so all doors and draws (good band name), will be opened simply by pushing them. On the surface it'll just be a wall of individual panels - the illusion will be that some doors may actually be either 1, 2 or 3 panels width. Whether it actually works out that way is a different matter and down to my non-existent wood working skills.

Almost all of these boards are laminated Canadian maple, so they're 'well 'ard', as you can imagine they need to be. Also a conscious decision to use these as they're tough and have a used quality, so I don't need to be overly precious about bouncing stuff off of them when we're plodding in and out.

They vary in size and shape, so even with a jig, getting all pieces identical was almost impossible due to each board having its own concave design.
Music on, the repetitive task began. One I didn't mind. Underneath the grip tape on some of the boards lay some pretty cool graphics hidden away. I'd start with each deck by heating the grip tape up to soften it and make it easier to remove…




Not all grip tape on the boards came off so easily… some of it would break off in small bits, so one deck would take 2 mins, another would take 10 mins.



…Once the grip tape was stripped off, I cleaned off all the sticky residue with 'Auto Glym' tar and glue remover (great stuff).

Next part of the process was to chop the board up and get rid of the split/feathered nose and tail, and knackered rails/side sections…



I could bolt my jig straight onto each board through the existing truck holes. Again, the centre spacing between the holes varied depending on length, so my jig had to accommodate for this. I also had to allow for the base plate on my circular saw when working out the final size my pieces would be cut to.
It was easier to cut on the convex of the board opposed to the concave, so the jig was bolted to the bottom of the board…



Then after adhering strictly to the 'step-by-step guide to cutting out skateboard decks' section in the health & safety manual, I placed a concrete block on top of my jig to weigh the board down and stop it from moving as I cut around it with the circular saw…




Seemed to work a treat. All the edges got a quick skim over with the sander and the job was almost done…



I worked out that 60 panels cut-out like this would cover me comfortably for what I needed, probably with some left over.

Once all the panels were cut, they got a couple of coats of satin varnish…

[No Sliders]

It was time to go about working stuff out. I'd already sketched out how I wanted the units configured in the sense of doors and draws either side and how they'd function, but I needed to get some solid measurements laid down and figure out a cut list.
I've been a bit reluctant to get my teeth into this as I've never built anything on this scale from scratch before… cupboards, draws and the likes, and I know that unless all the right angles are bang on, that the slightest mistake just snowballs and throws everything else out.

I started by taking a spirit lev… just kiddin'.

Had to start somewhere, so began by measuring and sticking some masking tape down to get some sort of outline and idea of dimension…



Jen and I had agreed we wanted the walkway slightly wider between the 2 units in comparison to the seating area, only because of opening doors, taking stuff in and out and moving about cooking.

You'll see I've angled the corner of the units. Couple of reasons for this; practicality of getting stuff in and out of the lower half of the units from the tailgate, and secondly because I think it'll look better, give a softer more inviting appeal that kinda leads you in.
I've not bothered putting an angle on the nearside, only because everything will pretty much be mirrored from the measurements on the offside anyway.

Started figuring out exactly how many decks I'd actually need by taking an average width from them and then adding 2mm between each one. I then marked it on the tape…





…Turns out I'll need 20 either side (40 total). Then selected the skateboards I wanted to use.

Marking the tape as accurately as possible would also give me all my angles (which I hate), later on for cutting whatever sections I needed…



The inner couple of strips of tape that follow the beveled corner represent the shelf which will be in the centre and divide the units in half horizontally. There is a 5mm 'push gap' between the shelf edge and the inner carcass which will hopefully allow for opening of doors and draws.

Template time… aaagainnn…



This was just to get the contour of the side walls.
Applied them to some 9mm hardwood ply and offered up to double check…



Both end tailgate sections cut and a door opening cut out on the offside. It didn't happen that fast - I also had to fart about, set an angle and cut the long bevel edge on both inner sides…



Thought long and hard about how I'd panel up all these skateboards together to get the effect I wanted. Weight saving had already gone out the window - I needed to somehow introduce consistency because the decks were so inconsistent.
I decided the best way was to fix them all up to a 9mm ply inner shell/carcass which would make up all doors, draw fronts and side panels ^^^. At least this way with all their individual inconsistencies, they'd have to conform to a more accurate template to form the outer skin.

After throwing my best idea at my go-to Geppetto (Jen's dad), he agreed this was probably the best way of going about it. I rarely consult Jen's dad tbh as I enjoy putting myself through sleep deprivation to figure shit out. My go-to Geppetto also acknowledged and confirmed what I'd suspected for some time now… "I don't make life easy for myself".

Both units inner most to the van would be secured to my partitions. To do this, and support everything that would continue towards the tailgate, I built a couple of robust frames.
I began building these frames my glueing and clamping 12mm ply together to form 24mm thick sections, maybe overkill but…



After cutting out chunks to clear both the wheel arches and fit various support struts into, I glued and pocket screwed them together, trying to make sure they were as square as possible.
I call them my 'E' frames…

---

Whilst hopping in and out of the back of the van during this process, and opening and closing the tailgate… Dick's legacy came back to haunt me.

Not sure if I included it in this thread or not, but at some point earlier last year, the ball joint bracket on the nearside had bust off under the pressure of the tailgate rams. Reason: because during the tailgate conversion (unknown to me at the time), Dick, guided by his infinite wisdom and self appointed professional expertise, decided to 'secure' these brackets on by faffing a dab of weld through the holes in the brackets on to… well… holes? Dunno?

Anyhoo, at the time it happened, I drilled out the bracket, cleaned and straightened the holes up in the body, secured some rivnuts in and bolted the bracket back on like it should have been. Not the prettiest, but 100% solid…



At the time of initially posting this up, I know it was raised by both Activ8 and Si whether it was worth either taking a chance and leaving the other side, or prizing it off and doing it as well. I decided to leave it but in the back of my mind knew it was a ticking time bomb.

One evening after closing the tailgate down… BOOOM!!…



Man, flashbacks of being back in the army. I turned around and thought one of my tyres had blown, then it clicked. I walked up to the back of the van and looked through the tailgate shut… yip, there it goes… the offside bracket too.

Did a pretty good job of cutting back my paint up to the pop-top rubber too…



Managed to get the tailgate propped up and gas strut removed after it had lodged itself nicely, hard against the pop-top. Did think about elevating the roof to help release it, but then thought better of it as would probably have rocketed straight through my canvas.

1 x bracket with the weld on the back for me to grind down and drill through…



…and here, we can see where Dick (the f*cking catapult fed plant), has welded it directly on to some good clean… errrrrmmm… air…



'The shutter doors once again clanked shut after another hard day's graft at Dick's workshop. The birds sang gleefully and Dick whistled along with them as he jumped into the air, clicking his heels together, ending the day on yet another high, throwing his jacket over his sloping, teflon shoulder.
As he winked and pointed at passers by, those immortal words from his mum, "I'm prouda you ma boy", rattled and echoed around in his otherwise empty and numb skull.'

Anyway, he's dead to me. Luckily it didn't happen when we were away and using it, or worse still somebody other than myself had it collapse down onto them causing serious harm.
I've sorted it, the same as the nearside - another wrong put right and hopefully for the last time.

[No Sliders]

Cut the main support struts that run the length of the units from left to right.
1 will brace the top and support the worktop, and the other will brace the mid section and support the shelving in the middle - again, this is mirrored both sides.

This is some of the 'free' wood 'donated' by the railway authorities last year.
Hardly the most interesting pic, although the top piece of wood is pretty exciting…



This particular piece runs along the top of my 240V HU gubbins, so I had to do some exciting stuff to it so it would navigate over the top and accommodate it.
A couple more pics for context…




Measured, cut and fitted up some supports for the top brace and middle shelf on the end panel, and also angled wedges to eventually take some hinges…



Bit of an angle faff fest cutting these wedges to get them spot on. Also made sure to take my time cutting the angles on both middle shelves.

You'll know by now I hate angles. Doesn't help that my kit isn't the most accurate… I mean what the hell angle is this on my chop saw?…



…Thirty foofty toofty or something? Whatever it is, I had to cut some wood at this angle. And WTF…



Bought this little angle gadget-ma-jig to help me out ^^^ (I think)? Not sure what it's trying to tell me, but I basically drop it on to the bottom of my circular saw and adjust the base plate angle until the little arm on the gadget-ma-jig aligns with the blade. Seems to work a treat. I think the numbers are just in case your watch stops and it doubles as a sun dial - quite clever… looks pretty too.

Routed out some recesses at the back of the middle shelf on the nearside so it would sit comfortably over the cables at the same time as hiding them…



Turns out that all my 240V gubbins will be nicely hidden away but should also be accessible for flicking switches etc. One of those unplanned, worked out lucky, kind of situations that I can tell folk was fully considered.

Quite happy with how this first little bit of the unit build went. Balanced some of the pieces together just to see how it was fitting up. The shelf sits at an ideal height over the charger and fuse box etc…



From above/inside you wouldn't even know it was there…



Nor from the tailgate end, hidden nicely away just behind the end panel…

[No Sliders]

Before sitting down and working out exactly how the carcasses were going to be configured, I had the fun job of choosing which skateboards I'd select to be used as panels and face the units off.

As sad as it sounds, this is one of those stages in a project I really look forward to and kind of a big deal to me. I wanted a good contrast of colour between decks as well as a nice balance of graphics. I also wanted this 'visual rule' to apply when looking and comparing both units mirrored opposite to each other.
So, after swapping, replacing and moving decks around a fair few number of times, I came up with a layout for each unit I was happy with.

Nearside…



Offside…



After thinking through how the units were gonna be configured both sides, i.e., what was going to be a cupboard and what was going to be a draw, I set about cutting all the doors for both sides.
There were a few things to consider before cutting ply up. What space did I have to play with once the fridge, hob/sink, gas locker and porta potti were in place? Would the layout conform to my layout/grid system of panels cut from skateboards? And with the space left, was it most practical being a simple cupboard space or a draw?

All looked good on paper, and after throwing some measurements around, my sketches started to loosely look like I knew what I was doing. This was a good enough green light for me, so out came the extension cable and the power tools plugged in.

Once all the doors were cut, it was now time to work out how the skateboards would be divided up, and which ones exactly would be fixed up to each door.
The process for each door was as follows, take a door…



In this ^^^ case; 'O/S B 2' (Offside Bottom 2), which coincided with my sketch plan.
I'd then check from the N/S and O/S layout pics above, which decks exactly would be fixed up into position. They were placed on the door, spaced evenly and clamped up. I'd then mark precisely where to drill each hole for a 'T nut' with a bradawl…



Decks off, holes drilled…



As previously mentioned in the thread, the hole positioning for each skateboard can differ slightly, so it's not a 'one size fits all' process. This is why all door backs are numbered and hence why each door back will be specific to any one deck, or set of decks from the layout.

The 'T nuts' were hammered in from the back…



I then bolted up each skateboard to double check alignment/fitment, and to also pull the 'T nuts' in for extra bite…



I've chosen to bolt up all the decks with these black allen bolts. Back when I used to skate and my bones were made of rubber prior to turning to bakelite, the trucks were fitted up with phillips bolts (and nuts). Nowadays, the yoof also get trucks supplied with allen bolts which I think look a bit gooderer (or is it betterer?), so I decided to run with these instead and ordered up a load in the correct length.

Lots of panels and doors later…



I also went through the same process with the unit end panels at the tailgate end…

Offside…




Nearside…




Luckily I hadn't glued up some of the sections that would either take the hinges or support the shelves as I had to remove them to notch out some recesses to accommodate the 'T nuts' before screwing back up again…

---

In other news…


I got a text message a few days ago from Roxann at 'Rock Upholstery' - the upholsterer who I got to make the seating/bedding for the back of Fudge.

This was out of the blue and much sooner than expected… I wasn't expecting to hear anything from her for at least another couple of weeks, especially as she'd told me that her sister would be over from California visiting.
No biggy… wasn't in a rush for these.

"Hi cushions should be ready this afternoon. Will you be home, thanks Roxann"

Woah, what a great surprise… hell yeah, I'll be home!

Super stoked - she did a sterling job trimming the upholstery out in the same material used on both driver and passenger seats in the cab.
Exactly how I wanted and pictured it. Finally, someone (other than myself), that I've involved in Project Fudge that has come through, done a top job, and not only that… delivered ahead of time.

Looking sweet and more like a campervan now. Seating mode…






As requested, she's also built in a 'knee roll', so it feels super comfy when sitting down. Plenty of depth to chill and either sit sideways with your feet up, or even lay down.

It paid off speaking with her ages ago to establish and choose the foam depth. This was prior to building the frames to ensure that the height was bang on when combined with the cushions, which it was. Our feet rest comfortably flat on the floor when seated for eating - not with feet dangling, nor with knees too high.
Lids underneath the cushions function great and hold the cushions up for loading/unloading whatever shite we store underneath without having to prop up with our arms.

Time to test out my bed mode…






…The main seating cushions simply flip over to opposite sides so that the knee rolls run parallel along the sides. Everything squishes in nice and snug. Obviously all sheets and bedding would then be thrown on.
Man, this feels good to lie on. I don't like my beds too soft, nor rock hard… just a nice level of firmness, and this is spot on.

I've probably mentioned that both Jen and myself are a couple of short arses. Roxann added a few extra inches overhang at the cab end of the cushions which takes the overall length of the bed to 5' 9"… bags of room for us hobbit folk.

All the improvements I designed and implemented over the old bed configuration in Oscar have paid off. Especially the lack of faff and more efficient way of turning it from seating mode into bed mode. After collapsing it back down in a matter of seconds opposed to minutes, we were back to seating mode.
Really chuffed with how this all worked out Roxann had also tailored it nicely around the seatbelts so as not to interfere, this is the kinda detail I like and appreciate…



I couldn't resist but to clamber up into the loft and dig out the cushions I'd bought to throw in the back once the cushions were completed.

These are recycled from 'Kilim rugs' (so the ethical box was ticked). They're super hard wearing, cheap, look pretty cool, and also striped to fall in with the theme of the skateboards, so this is also the start of introducing some more colour.
Can't lie, spent a good while trawling t'internet to source these…




We can now officially sleep away in the van (comfortably). Although no curtains for a little while yet… so, dunno? Wild camping could take on a different meaning - don't wanna be mistaken for doggin'.

[Activ8]

Hahahahaha, the narrative in your thread just keeps me chuckling along at the tempo of one those nodding Chinese cats.

What thoughtfulness and insightfulness, your T4 is a road map for build perfection, overcoming those early adversities and testing difficulties. Simply marvellous and a great multi-repeatable read. Bottle it and sell the formula. Thanks for posting.

[No Sliders]

Had a bit of a break away. First time off our little island since the apocalypse… good to travel again. Went to Porto in Portugal with some friends for just under a week and had a great time.

Being a raging geek, I had to snap this while we were out and about…



Obviously the majority of Portuguese police vehicles were bang up-to-date including a good few T6s, but good to see this little workhorse still being used and seemingly going strong, even if was for just doing the donut runs.
What a difference a warmer climate makes to bodywork.

Anyway, back to it.
All the unit pieces got a couple of coats of interior varnish. I've decided to leave these with their natural wood appearance, a) because I like it, and b) because painting the inside of the units including the draws black (the same as under the seats/bed), would have been way too dark and depressing.



I did however decide to paint my 'E frames' black along with all the edges and parts/gaps of the doors which will appear in between the skateboards once they're all bolted up to the face of the doors and unit panels.
This is so once all the doors are closed it will make it harder to see where all the individual doors/openings are and add to the effect of the units having seamless panelled facias…




I also painted the edges of the shelves which will be fixed across the centre of both O/S and N/S units black as well because this would potentially be visible in between both top and bottom sets of doors…




I'll do the same to all the internal partitions too when they're made as they'll also be possibly seen in between the doors.

Once everything was given 2 coats of black and 2 coats of varnish it was time to start screwing stuff together so it resembled some sort of unit carcass.
Started off by doing the nearside first…








Gotta say that in spite of my best efforts checking right angles and trying to get everything as plumb straight as possible, I'm still pretty apprehensive as to how all the draws and doors are eventually gonna come together and fit up.
This is because of the fact that some of the sections of wood are slightly warped. The hardwood ply sheets I've been buying from either B&Q or Jewsons are pretty trashy to say the least, but then again I guess they're meant for the building trade and not fine carpentry so it's to be expected.

I'm hittin' and hopin', but if any chippies out there have any tips for me, then I'm all ears. The plan is to get everything constructed on a good flat floor prior to fitting in the van.

Next the offside…




At the end panels of the units where the edge meets the carpeted ply lining, I cut and stuck on small sections of decks to fill the gaps. Bit fiddly but the gaps were too big to my eye just to leave…



This was done on both O/S and N/S panels and will become more apparent when the units are actually in place.

[S49]

They must have bought a job lot of blue and white vans. I wonder which is faster blue vans with white doors or white vans with blue doors. It's a shame Hereford United didn't get into Europe......... I've never been in the back of a T4 police van.

[Jim24]

I wonder which is faster blue vans with white doors or white vans with blue doors. It's a shame Hereford United didn't get into Europe......... I've never been in the back of a T4 police van

White doors.

A proper one would have a five pointed star on each of the cab doors, just like the Bluesmobile, "To Serve & Protect":



Jake: "This cars got allot of pickup.."

Food for thought Si?

[Jim24]

Obviously the majority of Portuguese police vehicles were bang up-to-date including a good few T6s, but good to see this little workhorse still being used and seemingly going strong, even if was for just doing the donut runs.
What a difference a warmer climate makes to bodywork.

.

Any chance NS of adding this great photo to the archive?:

https://just-t4s.co.uk/forum/social-...d-oddball-t4-s

[S49]

It's got cop tires,cop suspension made before catalytic converters so will run good on regular gas. Is it the new blues mobile ot wot?