Flash Gordon is alive!

[S49]

How often do you have to shit in the carb?Every third tank full!

[regcheeseman]

Paint looks good

How much hassle was it to drop the tank, just the straps, bits around filler and the sender to remove? I've got to change mine sometime, its had holes in it since I got it, drips when it's full.

I wouldn't touch those cuts with a plastic welder - it's not leaking now....maybe clean the slits and smear on some chemical metal or similar?

[TommyP]

How often do you have to shit in the carb?Every third tank full!

Every 2nd. Only the best for our fleet....


Sent from a muppet

[Jumbungla]

Paint looks good

How much hassle was it to drop the tank, just the straps, bits around filler and the sender to remove? I've got to change mine sometime, its had holes in it since I got it, drips when it's full.

I wouldn't touch those cuts with a plastic welder - it's not leaking now....maybe clean the slits and smear on some chemical metal or similar?

Yeah not bad at all really.

Filler, then the straps, lower it on a jack until you can remove the fuel pipes and sender connection.

Only had 4 gallons in the tank but it made it bloody awkward to pick up. The weight distribution was really weird.

Yeah good idea with the jbweld, think I'll do that, just for piece of mind.

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[S49]

Could you not remove the pipes from the sender though the hatch in the floors?

[regcheeseman]

Could you not remove the pipes from the sender though the hatch in the floors?

yep swings and roundabouts, seats off, mat up and go through hatch.

or partially drop tank, try and fiddle the pipes off and on, dealing with that sender housing that likes to crack and cause running problems - think I'll play safe and go the longer, remove seat method - especially as I have planar heater supply to deal with as well.

[Jumbungla]

yep swings and roundabouts, seats off, mat up and go through hatch.

or partially drop tank, try and fiddle the pipes off and on, dealing with that sender housing that likes to crack and cause running problems - think I'll play safe and go the longer, remove seat method - especially as I have planar heater supply to deal with as well.

Yeah I had that same conversation with myself before I took it out. Glad I went direct to the tank to be honest. Plenty of space to get the grips in to take the fuel pipe clips off.

Couldn't be arsed taking the seats out haha.

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[Jumbungla]

One of those days on the van today, where I've put in 9hrs work, and can't really say I've "achieved" anything.

Absolutely knackered though, so I must have done something.

Started by cleaning up the cuts on the fuel tank.



JB welded now, solid and no worry of the cuts breaking open.

Spent most of the day grinding and welding the crap out of the front arches and steps. They were in a real shit state.







I swear it's the sills. Whenever I do anything on a sill it seems to just suck time away.

Anyway, all solid now. Will post pics when painted.

Any MOT testers out there?

Would this brake line been considered "excessively corroded"?





Doesn't seem too bad to me. A repair would be a PITA as it goes straight all the way to the master cylinder.

Last job of the day before I collapsed went really nice - welded the front jack reinforcement on. Full 136 Amps for the 4mm steel. Just felt perfect. Nice sizzle, could watch the fresh steel melt into a pool as well as the jack point. Really satisfying.



Tomorrow - sorting out the shit below the steps. Most of it just seems to be getting rid of the rust and painting though. Fingers crossed.

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[S49]

I'd give the brake pipe a good going with a wire brush. If its not too pitted I would have passed it back in the day.Haven't tested since 97 but forget all the bullshit the test hasn't really changed in that time. Have a bit of a game with the tester I use. I'd check over then when it failed his list would 9 times out of 10 match mine.

[S49]

Looking again it looks a bit crusty just up from the union.Good clean then another look.Give the brakes a good stamping on with the engine running.Iffy pipes will often pop when the tester pumps up the brakes then starts the engine to check the pedal drops to prove the servo works.

[Jumbungla]

Looking again it looks a bit crusty just up from the union.Good clean then another look.Give the brakes a good stamping on with the engine running.Iffy pipes will often pop when the tester pumps up the brakes then starts the engine to check the pedal drops to prove the servo works.

Cheers Si, I'll give them a good brushing.

Ah my brakes have been plenty stamped on recently haha. No burst pipes yet!

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[regcheeseman]

I'd sort that brake line out, replacing with new, it looks a mess, Is that the section that's obstructed by the tank, you really don't want to be going back in to sort it, easier to do now and have the peace of mind.

Jacking point weld is a thing of beauty.


oh - use kunifer btw.

[S49]

That's the thing, your right Reg while the bus is in bits best to do the brakes lines especially those above the tank. I was looking at it from a testers view point as Jumbungla asked if we thought it would pass the mot test. I did my usual and jumped right in. Then edged my bets with the second reply.. I had a big fall out a couple a years back with the local Vdub specialist who did my tests at the time as when testing he compared everything with new and hardly passed a vehicle. I think he didn't really want my work and didn't like the fact I took so many VAG vehicles to him especially after his daddy had spent so much setting him up after the local agent squeezed him out.But yes after the great work put in why scrimp on a few brake lines.

[Jumbungla]

Yeah, cheers guys, think I knew deep down that would be the answer haha.

Forked out on the laser flare tool to replace my crappy broken Halfrauds one.

I'm thinking ill just replace about a 2ft section of both pipes were they are corroded - the pipes up front and at the back look fine.

Far too hot for welding today. Just tinkering on the van I think.

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[Jumbungla]

I'd sort that brake line out, replacing with new, it looks a mess, Is that the section that's obstructed by the tank, you really don't want to be going back in to sort it, easier to do now and have the peace of mind.

Jacking point weld is a thing of beauty.


oh - use kunifer btw.

Is that kunifer the same as the copper/cupra nickel? I've got cupra nickel pipe.

Harder than copper, but easier to flare and longer lasting that steel?

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