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You'll have the advantage of warmer ambient temps Arf, so the engine and diesel will get to temp quicker and is likely to be more efficient. As Si suggests, get the manifold and EGR valve off the van Arf and clean them out. Easy job.
I have nowhere to fuck about stripping the pieces off (putting the skillset issue to one side) so it would be down to the half pint mechanic to do it. Is it worth paying him? Would it make a difference?
I have nowhere to fuck about stripping the pieces off (putting the skillset issue to one side) so it would be down to the half pint mechanic to do it. Is it worth paying him? Would it make a difference?
OK.
Yes I believe its worth doing imo.
Now it's blocked off, you'll do it once. Removing the gunge that sits in the air intake route will make a difference to that airmass and boosted airflow.
Then I will tell him next time it is in.
I still get the limp mode issue I have had for the last 6 years of ownership, I had hoped this would have cured it
Then I will tell him next time it is in.
I still get the limp mode issue I have had for the last 6 years of ownership, I had hoped this would have cured it
Tell your guy to clean the complete intake , airbox, filter, intake pipes, turbo , Intercooler, boost pipework , EGR valve and inlet manifold.
When was the MAF sensors replaced?
Again, a vcds code read and logging channels 3,8 & 11 on a run will help diagnose the issue quickly. It could be just a ½ turn on the actuator nut that changes the limp.
Yours is a 1996-1998 ACV van so may have an issue / damaged MAP chip in the ECU (common problem).
You cannot guess this stuff, you need a starting.point.
Pulled out the Crafter manifold, cleaned it up with the newly delivered knotted wheels. This manifold has a great sensor port in the head and a usefully positioned EGR port that could be used for a Blow Off Valve if you wanted to shut the waste gate closed all the time. The BOV used to offer some limited relief at high rpm / psi.
The GT28WC works on it , "works" means you can secure it without some contortionist style spannering or modifying your tools to work to get at the fixings. Also the oil and water feeds are again accessible.
Borrowing some TT 225 water hose fittings I can now plumb it all into the existing feed and returns at the back of the head and oem oil cooler. I've made up my own stainless and water hosing using motorsport compression fittings yet to cut for lengths, Just need the turbos oil feed to finish. The return runs into the oem dipstick housing.
A mate popped in this afternoon, dropped off a T25 manifold to Merc turbo adaptor.
It's only taken about 18 months to deliver it. The Merc cast housing has a useful 3" V band exhaust housing as standard and runs the largest oem K24 wheel setup.
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