T4 : Battle Across Time (2010 to present)

[Activ8]

After slotting the input shaft bolt as nothing would shift it, the mallet and RS screwdriver released it. (According to later manuals these should be changed if removed, note this 5th gear upgraders.) . The KATSU 200mm bearing puller from Amazon has lovely fine pulling arms and was fantastic and quickly removed both damaged 5th gears. The gearbox casing input shaft roller bearing is completely fubar. A few steps in the right direction.

[Activ8]

Dropped the lad off at the local VR Gaming Centre for a couple of hours mefreetime boxing , gearboxing. Back at the wheel barrow workshop, brew in hand I surveyed the next steps. The nearside diff cup needs to come off and that should then release the gear casing hopefully. Both the nearside and the offside cups which includes the o/s stubby drive shaft have "C" clip retainers fitted at the diff ends. They stop things dropping out but can be forced to compress and release. The offside with a few accurate hammer blows (use something meaty and soft headed) to the cup itself whilst turning the cup to avoid whacking the same spot, it eases out nicely. The nearside removal uses long bolts. I used two M10x75mm. Threaded in the cup by hand and alternately spannered in to slowly lever the C clip to compress and lift the diff cup out. One removed I noted there were two strengthened casing casts where this may of been more appropriate rather than cutting into the case and potential wearing it or breaking it..... there's nothing in the manuals I've read, both raised ledges are perpendicular to the oil filler (see pic with bolt). Happy days the casing lifted clean off without the need for a pry bar. If you do need to pry the casing off avoid the two casing halves mating faces!

[Activ8]

Case dismissed ....... and removed to one side for inspection and further dismantling.

The gbox magnet had a royal field day trying to collect 59 5th gear teeth, fine and coarse metal debris. It sort of did its job. Although there were teeth all over the housing and gearing trains. I'm no expert but it'd been Pottered with and left for dead! ;-)

According to the 02A manual, you're supposed to leave the four output/pinion shaft (whole new language this) nuts in place then remove after the casing lifted off, I didn't, I just undid the lot as I was working over the wheel barrow and couldn't be arsed to keep flipping the stinking and heavy box every two minutes. Without upsetting my Reliant Robin stability platform and loose two plank worktop!! Note to self add some edging next time. The convenient barrow shape catches all, coats it in the dark oil goo residual, then shines to say now pick me up, bar steward. I can recommend the ease of hiding said workshop from her indoors overnight too, although it stinks like Kevs' machine shop whilst baking in current temps. Watch out for loose rollers from damaged bearings.

Time for another brew and an imaginary pat on the back for not doing something else in the sun today.

[S49]

I have a left side diff seal to do. I'll make up an adaptor for the sidehammer as I don't like the look of that two bolt method. Be just my luck to shatter or crack the casing.

[S49]

Keep it coming Rob, very interesting mate.

[Activ8]

I have a left side diff seal to do. I'll make up an adaptor for the sidehammer as I don't like the look of that two bolt method. Be just my luck to shatter or crack the casing.

Two bolts is the recommended VAG process but you can easily see how it could go tits up after a few turns, HENCE the observation and pic. All part of the learning curve!

[Activ8]

After a well deserved brew it was time to strip out the casing with all the internals. It's the casing I need (I believe) for the 6 speed donor.

The gear casing and the internals - whats left of them - are not required at this point in the guess work.

I took a few pictures as a personal aide memoire just in case I need to build the 02B back again.

Right, next the gear selector parts. One long T45 bit from the Sealey AK219 bit kit got the internal gear change mech off & out easy. The reverse shaft and gears just lifted out. Next the input shaft coaxed out lightly and very quickly followed by the heavier output/pinion shaft. Watch out for damage, broken bearings falling out.

Taking a quick break to collect the lad then I'll be bagging boxing and labelling the good bits for Justin.

[Activ8]

Added a few more pics.
Diff was clean and undamaged, although there's a lot of metallurgy around the casing. Bearings looked clean and it came out easy. Looks like most of the crap floating about other than the 5th teeth is from the output shaft outer roller bearing.

O2S diff cup sits just inside the the T4's. Holes line up albeit the pad is a smidge smaller. The shafts are a smaller diameter by comparison.

[Jim24]

I'm impressed Rob, and particularly like your wheelbarrow workshop concept, and in the metal too.

Will there be some gearbox workshops taking place at any of the proposed Meets?

[TommyP]

I'm impressed Rob, and particularly like your wheelbarrow workshop concept, and in the metal too.

Will there be some gearbox workshops taking place at any of the proposed Meets?

Yes Jim, it’ll be a 2 part workshop where Rob shows you how to strip it down and then drink tea and scratch you head whilst wondering how it all goes back together and the second part will feature me pulling out the car park in my van showing you how to break them in the first place.


Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s

[Jim24]

I have a left side diff seal to do. I'll make up an adaptor for the sidehammer as I don't like the look of that two bolt method. Be just my luck to shatter or crack the casing.

I'm definitely with you on that Si - and full marks to Rob for pointing it out.

There used to be a former tennis player living in nearby Ilkley - a friend of a friend - that catered for some of the local Toffs.

Her marketing slogan was "Full Marks for Naughty Boys".

We live, and hopefully learn...

[Activ8]

Take out of these posts what you want , you might even learn something, I am, or you could simply send ya'boxes over to TP' and his old gearbox fella for a fully warrantied service. Pahahahahaha.

[Activ8]

Something to take note of is the effectiveness of the magnet held at the base and split of the two casing halves. Whilst it clearly has done its job it loses its magnetic attractiveness , effectiveness and function over the course of time and the mileage these boxes are now at.
Once caked in fine metallurgy debris, a sort of oily metallic paste. It actually serves no purpose - its overloaded. I tried it before a quick clean. The teeth fragment and large chips failed the attraction test.
I wonder if an upgrade to a neomydium type would serve it better now?
Changing the oil or flushing the box regularly wouldn't clear the debris attracted unless there's a mechanics trick or tip?

[Activ8]

I'm impressed Rob, and particularly like your wheelbarrow workshop concept, and in the metal too.

Will there be some gearbox workshops taking place at any of the proposed Meets?

The forum is the formal workshop Jim.
Meets are usually reserved for repairs , repair advice , tracing odd wiring , oil leaks, and turbo technics. Oh and banter, lots of banter.

[Activ8]

I love a brew or three while I'm working through this sort of stuff.
What's not pictured is the laminated workshop manual, 7zap diagrams, notes and closed Haynes T4 book! ;-)
I take my time and rush at my own speed.
Having stripped this box once, I reckon I could now have it in individual bits in under two hours now.
A base level cleaning might take another two.
Inspection some reading up (the manuals get more involved as the years progressed) and a secondary sonic clean a further two to four.
Rebuild, with a full contingent of shim sets, spares etc another two perhaps.
About 12 brews worth!!

Take your time, it's your van so take all the time needed to get it right, first time.