T4 : Battle Across Time (2010 to present)

[Activ8]

Twenty minutes used wet papering, 1000 through to 3000 grit & a smidge of G3 hand polished along the bonnets top edge and line got me to this.

I need some advice on taking those finer scratches out - maybe I need a proper sanding block - but its left sort of OK. Only showing up the rest of the 19 year old paintwork now! The bonnet needs some adjustment - any tips - and I could do with unbolting the wings top 3 fixings and man handling a tighter shut line each side.

Some washing up liquid and an old nylon pan brush over the bonnet vent took out the deep grime, mossy deposits. Theres a lot of paint on the bonnet so it was a struggle to carefully replace the vent , the top tabs very tight and noting that the lower right hand end was already broken so not locking in and laying flat in its recess.

Going to try and prep a new panel area each month ready for a 2021 DIY respray


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[Activ8]

Bought a new Silverline 10m 8mm ID rubber air line for spraying which came with a couple of 1/4" euro connections, plus a tin of Rusty-Old-Liam in "chrome".

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[S49]

Rob and his darn bonnet. Everybody's wife is having a go now. Poor repair carried out in 2003 I think, had fish eye come through so Mol got fed up with it and is having ago her self. The bodyshop in question was founded by an ex work mate who was shit hot and claims to be the best but most expensive for miles. Not the fella that did her hot rod sparkle bonnet but we've made a pact never to pay for paint work again.

[Activ8]

Brilliant. Well done Molly. If Si's not proud of you I certainly am. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

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[Activ8]

Tried the Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 a few weeks back. The rear wishbones I'd picked up needed tidying up and storing away for JIC.

I jet washed them clean and left to dry in the sun for a few days then set to with knotted wheels & a flapper to remove the loose rust and clean them back a little. Took a good few hours and several wheel types. Read the Hydrate 80 data sheet, shake, pour a little into another container so as not to contaminate the original then two sparingly applied coats by brush with a 30 minute break between each at 90° to the 1st. Leave for 24 hours , although you can apply a top coat after 3 hours.

I've used Hammerites Kurust over the years but the BH Hydrate 80 is a few levels above. The H80 coats lovely over the clean surface and instantly you see a transformation and no more rust particles, areas or patches. Work it in between the crevices systematically trying to be frugal. Both once activated - contact with rust or the metal surface - turn a bluey black colour but the H80 seems to create a thick pva type skin over the surfaces far denser than the budget brand Kurust.

Rather than brush the H80 in I might try spraying it with a fine hand operated mister, then work it in with brush.

[Activ8]

Borrowed Colin01332's drive to stick the old painted springs back in, remove the oem's and install Fruitbats lengthened adjusters. Found an original top set of rubber discs for seating the pig tail in and new 5mm spring plates for the adjusters at the base of the spring. The new rear Sachs HD's are much longer so to stay safe the adjusters were wound out to keep it all from bouncing out. Need some suspension straps / slings fitted to set the ride height up correctly and safely. The ride is smooth and just lovely on tthe new tyre and shock combo but I intend to try a new 18" wheel with 245/45's fitted.

Loads of new parts to fit over Winter.

Any advice or recommenditons on the rear suspension strap/slings?

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[Fruitbat]

The spring adjuster is supposed to fit a the top Rob, the 3 grub screws clamp onto the tube to help stop the threaded part moving when adjusting the collar .

[Greeny gtc]

I have mine at the bottom, and the grub screws on the thread tightened onto the tit on the wishbone

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[S49]

That don't look right Rob mate, just waiting to jump out over the first bump.

[regcheeseman]

It don't look right because the collar is wrong, you don't fit those bullshit coilover fakes and wind them up.take it out, fit the springs and strap them

[Activ8]

That don't look right Rob mate, just waiting to jump out over the first bump.

As you look at it, its secure Si and doesn't drop out but rides too high.

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[Activ8]

The spring adjuster is supposed to fit a the top Rob, the 3 grub screws clamp onto the tube to help stop the threaded part moving when adjusting the collar .

Cheers Kev. With my old "shorter" shocks it was fitted at the bottom. I'll buy some straps and have a play.

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[Activ8]

It don't look right because the collar is wrong, you don't fit those bullshit coilover fakes and wind them up.take it out, fit the springs and strap them

The springs alone are too short for the rim and tyre combo fitted. I need the adjuster. Got a link for the straps?

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[TommyP]

How much is the lower rubber mount doing now?

Straps: https://slingsandstraps.co.uk/produc...d6cfb032&_ss=r

Some adjustable ones: https://rpsrally.com/product/suspens...miting-straps/

Some local ones with scene tax: https://www.thevdubmonkeys.co.uk/pro...imit-strap-kit

Can’t you get a spring that’s the right height?

Sent from a muppet

[Activ8]

How much is the lower rubber mount doing now?

Straps: https://slingsandstraps.co.uk/produc...d6cfb032&_ss=r

Some adjustable ones: https://rpsrally.com/product/suspens...miting-straps/

Some local ones with scene tax: https://www.thevdubmonkeys.co.uk/pro...imit-strap-kit

Can’t you get a spring that’s the right height?

Sent from a muppet

Thanks Tommy exactly what I needed.
With the 235/45-R19 tyre I don't know what I need or can play with as its so tight in the arches hence the adjuster to take out all the guess work and give me mm adjustment. The lower rubber mount was so the adjuster wasn't sitting metal to metal.

I'll fit the straps and rearrange the setup.