T4 : Battle Across Time (2010 to present)

[TommyP]

Love the mk4 also. Hate the mk5.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Just T4s

I’m not keen either. I went to look at a mk5 Gti but found the interior cheap and poorer quality compared to the mk4 and between the 4 pot and just front wheel drive, I didn’t bother. I do like the tartan thing though. That’s right up my street.

I’ve found my V6 quicker than any mk5 Gti off the line anyway, you just can’t deny the Haldex is epic. Closer match on a rolling start though.

Sent from a muppet

[Activ8]

Data dump.
https://www.autorefinishdevilbiss.co...uide)_zphe.pdf

Spray Gun Troubleshooting & Preventative Guide

Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[Activ8]

..... anyways, underterred by my novice paintwork & considering the weather was already turning, I created an hours window and went for it - again!

Some of my prep needed improving. It was nothing major but having now got my "eye-in & hands-in" the imperfections needed addressing. The Upol 1K Dolphin Stopper is brilliant for quick thin layer & scratch fixes. Back on the 600 I keyed the bonnet back then lightly with 240 on the small areas needing improvement. I've learned to control my "chuck it on" approach so a mere smidge of the olive green paste goes a long way. Light pressure sanding with a flexi-brick works a treat and I honestly thought I was getting good at this fundamental. Finished the bonnet with dry 800 before tac-ragging and degreasing it off.

Cleaned & lubricated the FLG5 and checked the gun settings , prepped my filtered paint by weight, checked the viscosity (DIN4 cup 15-17seconds) just added 5% upols fast drying thinners to get it bang on. I was determined to improve on the last attempt.

Made up some extra paint to have a practice on card 200g /73g/14g was enough for 3 coats I estimated. Made a mental note to buy some cheap 2K paint - "live" practice is key.
Couple of passes on the cardboard at 2 bar looked good, good fan and atomisation but this simply didn't translate to the bonnet. Rechecked everything in my head, angle to the workpiece, distance, pressure but just seems to spit. Adjusted the pressure to 2.5bar, then 3bar against the cardboard with 3bar now giving the best fan pattern. Went back to bonnet and continued but I was well miffed.


Waited 7.5 minutes on a timer but results were similar with coat two and finally coat 3 - improved but not up to scratch. The wet sheen looked good with a deep reflection but it was orange peely and pitted, better than my first go but I'm not a happy bunny so sod it, it'll have to go back on the van until next year. Gave it a few hours to dry and as is refitted to the van.



On a more up beat note this is what came off so its at least a little improved! Lol!

[S49]

Looks like you have overspray on the number plate Rob.

[S49]

Keep at it mate its the only way to learn. Put a tent up in the yard with a heater and carry on.

[Activ8]

Keep at it mate its the only way to learn. Put a tent up in the yard with a heater and carry on.

Cheers Si. May be when Im back I'll rethink it through and have another attempt on other parts less ambitious/prominent.



Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[S49]

See when ever I try something new the instruction manual goes straight in the bin.I'll learn to spray for the doka with trial and not error hopefully so keep at it Rob, bugger the research. Learnt from the old chap by a chance remark that the desert sand they paint the old vehicles with is no better than primer for stopping moisture and cellulose can be a nightmare for reaction so I've learnt something already. I'm not paying to have it sprayed so he recommended an oil based paint. Found a suppler of military colours but its gloss so that will test me further. Not Reg's cup a tea and he'd say use proper car paint. Dad said not to fuck about with 2 pack as its so specialised and having painted cars,tractors trucks since the late 60's i'll grudgingly go with his advice.just want a paint that looks ok but more importantly stops the ole shed rusty away from around me.

[Activ8]

See when ever I try something new the instruction manual goes straight in the bin.I'll learn to spray for the doka with trial and not error hopefully so keep at it Rob, bugger the research. Learnt from the old chap by a chance remark that the desert sand they paint the old vehicles with is no better than primer for stopping moisture and cellulose can be a nightmare for reaction so I've learnt something already. I'm not paying to have it sprayed so he recommended an oil based paint. Found a suppler of military colours but its gloss so that will test me further. Not Reg's cup a tea and he'd say use proper car paint. Dad said not to fuck about with 2 pack as its so specialised and having painted cars,tractors trucks since the late 60's i'll grudgingly go with his advice.just want a paint that looks ok but more importantly stops the ole shed rusty away from around me.

Each to their own Si and don't get me wrong despite my poor start to painting I was buzzing with satisfaction. My prep is getting good and it shows. Its been a good start I reckon.

The fellas at Arc-Rites were great when I spoke to them, couldn't be more helpful and the eBay prices are some of the cheapest I've seen. Worth a chat re the Doka.

The upol 2K paint used is fine, Im sure the "industry" make it their mission to inflate the difficulty , it aint rocket science just experience. I was pushed for time and could of mirror polished that back no problem - the depth of paint allows for compensation polishing - then tried my hand at the gloss but thought better of it tbh as I need to work out where Im/the process/kit are going wrong.

Haven't tried the Bahco HVLP yet, so I'm still hoping to try the Rust Busters carbon grey EM121 through it on my homemade cill/side bars & a set of new rims.


Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[S49]

I'll eat my words and do a bit of research then Rob never say never failing all I can go back to plan B. It'll be a while till I have to worry about putting colour on the thing.

[Activ8]

I'll eat my words and do a bit of research then Rob never say never failing all I can go back to plan B. It'll be a while till I have to worry about putting colour on the thing.

I could come down and give you a hand when you need it Si?

Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[regcheeseman]

See when ever I try something new the instruction manual goes straight in the bin.I'll learn to spray for the doka with trial and not error hopefully so keep at it Rob, bugger the research. Learnt from the old chap by a chance remark that the desert sand they paint the old vehicles with is no better than primer for stopping moisture and cellulose can be a nightmare for reaction so I've learnt something already. I'm not paying to have it sprayed so he recommended an oil based paint. Found a suppler of military colours but its gloss so that will test me further. Not Reg's cup a tea and he'd say use proper car paint. Dad said not to fuck about with 2 pack as its so specialised and having painted cars,tractors trucks since the late 60's i'll grudgingly go with his advice.just want a paint that looks ok but more importantly stops the ole shed rusty away from around me.

Things have moved on Si, your dads advice is misplaced.

I avoided 2K on my early projects because of the perceived difficulty. Having tried it I realised it wasn't true and was converted as a 2K fan by the finish quality.

Celly is fine and forgiving so I dont know where that is coming from, finish is never as good or as long lasting as 2K.

I've only had reactions when painting from surface contamination or not allowing enough time for the thinner to flash off before subsequent coats.

Oil based is fine, easy to work with and glosses up nice - I've no issues with that as a coating, it's more the mentality of the rustoleum brigade who want a cheap, easy and quick way to paint their vans, consequently they skip on prep and skip on finish quality, it's quite conceivable to get an excellent finish. but it wont be quick or easy.

Single stage 2K is easy - my van is single stage.

For show finish or metallics you want base and clear - the base is a 1K and the clear lacquer is 2k but this wont apply to your van paint scheme.


This is base and clear, and the best paint job I've ever done - gun finish with no wet sanding.

[TommyP]

That mk2 is divine.


Sent from a muppet

[S49]

Thanks Reg some sound advice there.

[Activ8]

Single stage 2K is easy - my van is single stage.

This is base and clear, and the best paint job I've ever done - gun finish with no wet sanding.

Seconded. Great advice as always Reg.

I didn't realise yours is just a single stage. For working outside how long should you allow for the 2K to dry? The upol TDS stated 12-14 hours at 20°C but theres no way mine had gone off 100% in that time. Mrs reckons the postie has already caught it with his bag!!

A gun finish is my goal, you can see how near you can get with 2K too. I'm converted, DIY for me from now on. As the Autumn kicks in I'll be looking for a cheap pop-up gazebo for painting.






Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

[regcheeseman]

Seconded. Great advice as always Reg.

I didn't realise yours is just a single stage. For working outside how long should you allow for the 2K to dry? The upol TDS stated 12-14 hours at 20°C but theres no way mine had gone off 100% in that time. Mrs reckons the postie has already caught it with his bag!!

A gun finish is my goal, you can see how near you can get with 2K too. I'm converted, DIY for me from now on. As the Autumn kicks in I'll be looking for a cheap pop-up gazebo for painting.

Touch dry in an hour or so, 2K might take weeks to go off properly, it'll be soft for a couple of days and that's when you want to do your wet sand as it's easier.

My gay zebra was about 40 with the sides, the clarke ones are nice but a fair bit dearer, we are running out of time for outdoor painting now, you'll be getting snow soon ooop north wont thee?

Soon as it's below 10 it's game over, gotta watch dew and temps dropping overnight and blooming it