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Bought some 9mm ply today and set about replacing the floor, using a single sheet fitted centrally to create a single level surface for the rails, the shop had a display stand for CT1 and seeing as a few on here have said how good it is I bought some.
The section around the step needed a double layer of ply to bring the surface up level, so the CT1 bonded one strip to floor and the second strip on top.
Ply fitted down, and the edge pieces fitted down
Why did I not fit the speaker cable back under the floor again? Because when I fit the tailgate sometime in 2023 it will need to come out again.
Dunno, was looking at 3M last night, dinitrol is too expensive, though I think it is pretty much unnecessary to go overboard with underseal, I'd rather make sure the rust protection comes from the paint and primer and the protection from damage and the anti'drumming propeties are provided by the underseal. For that reason I'd tend to go for quantity over quality.Originally posted by AndyLeach View Post
Would you recommend a product - one that doesn't rhyme with the phrase 'loadashite' ?Comment
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They do Dynax UB - I'm not sure..... I like black bitumen type coatings, I'm beginning to understand S49 and his allegiance to red oxide.Originally posted by AndyLeach View PostComment
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I have narrow boat blacking under mine. Appears to be working really well. Again its bitumen based.Comment
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Just dawned on me, I should have run a speaker cable across the floor.
Good job I never bonded the big sheet down - relying on the bolts through the rails to do that - pull it all up again.Comment
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How did you find the CT1 worked for you?Me cago en la madre que te parió!Comment
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Depends on a couple of things,Originally posted by arfur fox-acre View Post
if it goes solid in the tube before I get to use it again like tiger seal does I'll be miffed
And if it fails at all - early days yet but I'd guess it's not as strong as sikaflex or tiger seal.
However the blob on my knee where I knelt on it has just survived it's third shower.Comment
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fitted the seat mounts to the base to get the spacing of the rails equal along their length - that solves the X axis of alignment
y axis alignment can be solved by fitting the frame to the rails and locking the mounts in....ish
problem is, even with the ply surface I hadn't factored on the z axis needing to be aligned, you set it at one end of the rails and the undulation in the floor screws everything up.
Such that it is a pig to slide. not even allowing for the fact the rails can also angle or twist slightly along the length - it's a nightmare
Two rails would be ok and possibly three - but trying to align five is a pig.
It'll probably be a lot better when I split the frame work so one section is on three rail and the other on two - fingers crossed.Comment
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Not sure I understood that? Is it the friction of running on 5 rails or the mismatched uneveness of them or both. Could you of made a matching second frame for the seat mounts and use them at each end to fix just two rails, then add the 3rd 4th & 5th rail?Originally posted by regcheeseman View PostComment
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It's the uneveness that cause them to bind.Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
No need for a second frame - I could remove the fittings from the one I have to use less rails.
Basically I fixed the centre rail and worked from there. Get all five rails fixed at the front, then drag the base backwards to guide the rails into position and then fix them down working backwards.Comment
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So, how much is the Z axis out? Can you not laser level then shim each rail across the area travelled?Originally posted by regcheeseman View PostComment
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So, removed two of the seat mounts to concentrate on getting three rails aligned, still jamming.
Went down to two rails - should align easily? Wrong still jams.
Inspection revealed that because the rails are only pulled down on one bolt at the front of the rail, the tightness of the bolt is critical as it pulls the rail down so two rails sit at different angles.
Slackened the bolts up and the two rails slid easily.
So then I drilled a couple more mounting holes through the floor, sliding the seat base back, locking it down and then drilling through. Once a rail had three or four bolts through and pulled up tight the rails say nice and level and the base slid nicely.
So I added in the third mount and the unit wouldn't even slot into the rails. Bugger!
Checking carefully the middle rail is lower than the other two, a washer packing the mount off the seat base is enough to make up the difference, the seat base slots in and slides. Yay!
Then it was a simple and boring (literally) task of drilling through and bolting up the three rails, working backwards with the base two holes at a time. I got about 18 bolts in - 77 left to do.
Nicely planned as I hit another chassis cross member, which should be practically be where the seat base rests in its normal position. The third line of bolts are running along the edge of the chassis rail which you cant see.
I was concerned that some bolts might be obscured by the heat shield, but so far they are accessible.
Got lucky with this one, didn't drill through any brake lines and purely by chance hit a gap in the undershield allowing access to the nut.Comment
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Are you putting your faith in the washers underneath to hold the frame ? Or are you going to add spreader plates after the trial and error fitting stage ?Comment
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