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Van No Starty

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  • Van No Starty

    Hi,

    Have created an issue with my van It no longer starts.

    Van is a 1991 2.4D (AAB). No immobiliser.

    I was trying to fix my lack of working reversing lights (fuse blows when ignition turned on). I found quite a lot of exposed, broken and near broken cabling in my loom, around the areas where it leaves the protective sleeves (some Y junctions there too).

    What I have done -

    - insulated cables that had exposed copper.
    - replaced length of cable for oil pressure sensors as it was exposed and looked close to breaking.
    - replaced section of a think black cable. no idea what it was for, but it looked like it was about to fall apart. What is it?
    - replaced broken sections of black/thin red and back/thin blue (which I think are reversing light cables)
    - replaced broken cable to the water pump that does it's thing after the engine is turned off.

    Now the van won't start. Turns over, but won't fire. Doesn't sound like it is trying to fire. I replaced the glow plug relay, but same result.

    Any thoughts on what I have broken? The engine started before I started work on it.

    (also, I still have no reversing lights!)

    Thanks,
    dan
    Last edited by BettyBus; 4 July 2016, 01:15 PM.
    Follow our adventuring, tea drinking and being rescued from mild peril at The Betty Bus Diaries

  • #2
    stop solenoid.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks, had a google to find out what it is and that sounds like the culprit. Guess that is the black wire that disappeared into the gloom.

      back in there with the voltmeter. presumably it should be live when as soon as everything lights up on the dash?

      can I test it by running a 12v supply straight to it? (and removing it will stop the engine running?)

      Sorry for the daft questions, I'm mechanically inept and dangerous with spanners.

      dan
      Follow our adventuring, tea drinking and being rescued from mild peril at The Betty Bus Diaries

      Comment


      • #4
        12v should be live on cranking, and remain live until the key is turned back to acc position on the ignition switch. Theory yes, 12v to stop/start solenoid, then turn over van with the key...
        But, I'm not a mechanic, so don't take my word as gospel.
        Good luck!
        '00 1.9TDI LWB, '87 Mk2 Golf 16v

        Wheel or tyre question? Just ask, it's what i do!

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks. is the feed supplied via a relay (and if so, which one?), or just supplied directly?
          Follow our adventuring, tea drinking and being rescued from mild peril at The Betty Bus Diaries

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          • #6
            Direct feed from the ignition switch - often the contacts break in the switch meaning the feed to the solenoid drops out when crank - so you may well measure it present and correct with the ignition on but it disappears when you turn key and try to start.

            By all means hook up a hot feed direct to battery.

            You should hear the solenoid click as you apply power.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks all.

              It was the stop solenoid. Clicked and started fine with a line from the battery +ve.

              Eventually tracked it down to blown fuse number 15. I'd checked number 18 which was labelled as fuel pump, but have learned my lesson about checking them all. Guess it blew when I was sorting out the broken mess of wiring.

              Still no reversing lights, but I'll leave that for another day!

              Thanks
              dan
              Follow our adventuring, tea drinking and being rescued from mild peril at The Betty Bus Diaries

              Comment


              • #8
                Reverse light switch is mounted on the top of the gearbox (1.9TD).... Mine used to stick on, cause I always left it in reverse on a steep driveway. It's a simple switch, dead easy to replace.
                '00 1.9TDI LWB, '87 Mk2 Golf 16v

                Wheel or tyre question? Just ask, it's what i do!

                Comment


                • #9
                  Thanks, it's not the switch - that is what I first suspected and it was swapped.

                  However, the reverse light fuse blows as soon as ignition key is turned, which I think indicates a short circuit somewhere between the +ve feed and the switch. I have unplugged the cable and it still happens, so not switch related. I found some breaks in the cable insulation and patched those, but the problem persists. MOT looming, so I may just run a fused line from the battery to switch for the time being!

                  ta,
                  dan
                  Follow our adventuring, tea drinking and being rescued from mild peril at The Betty Bus Diaries

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    On the bright side .reverse lights are not needed for a uk mot ☺

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      That's useful to know Takes the urgency out of fixing them.
                      Follow our adventuring, tea drinking and being rescued from mild peril at The Betty Bus Diaries

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