Old Hat

[S49]

It says to recoat after 2 hours but before 3 so will give it another coat at 2 o clock.

[fife t4 new]

Tidy job mate. You've certainly been busy this morning. I'm dressed for work but not ventured outside yet. Next you've got the fun job of trying to match your White in

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[S49]

May just white stone chip it. Mind I have been thinking of doing both sills grey to match the roof. Theres no rush as its that magic Bilt Hamber stuff. Looks like i'm cured of the old red oxide.

[Activ8]

It says to recoat after 2 hours but before 3 so will give it another coat at 2 o clock.

If you read about the product online Si you don't actually need a second coat, thats for marine type applications, the tin instructions aren't clear. You need to read the downloadable guide off of the BH site. There could be more immediate info in the Bodywork Sticky section (hmmm cue humour).

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[Activ8]

PS - Great job Si.
I'm sure I can hear Regs' voice ....

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[fife t4 new]

May just white stone chip it. Mind I have been thinking of doing both sills grey to match the roof. Theres no rush as its that magic Bilt Hamber stuff. Looks like i'm cured of the old red oxide.

Its maybe water/rust proof but the dirt clings to the bilt hamber mate. I'd give it a coat of something as soon as poss. Learned that the hard way after doing golf sill.

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[Activ8]

Here's mine after 8 months, left exposed and two coats .... I wasn't as thorough on the drivers side so it needs looking at again but it's barely noticeable.




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[S49]

How come you didn't do the top 3/4 of the arch Rob or has that crept up since. I'll leave it required 90 odd hours then stone chip.And yes those perished front tyres will be next to go,mind they never got a mention on the ole mot test.

[Activ8]

How come you didn't do the top 3/4 of the arch Rob or has that crept up since. I'll leave it required 90 odd hours then stone chip.And yes those perished front tyres will be next to go,mind they never got a mention on the ole mot test.

Laziness in part Si and knowing what I'm like for starting and not actually finishing, distracted by life.
I knew if I started I could of gone around the van like a mad twat , leaving patches of muppetry in my wake and taken on too much to make good as its been a real learning curve. In the past I've taken paintwork irrelevant of size to an expert, paid good money and we've fallen out but when you start becoming a PITA customer - one who writes down the agreed job etc. - they don't want your business or to do a job you pay and often agreed with them to do. So muppetry it is from now on. I helped the last lad quite a bit on the blue van but profess to have actually learned very little. I think I was just tasked to "keep out of the way". I'll do some more this year but I left the Electrox to see how it faired tbh and may continue to do so as I pick up the skills to make good. Its a real challenge to get it right.

[S49]

It looks fine mate. I remember commenting I expected you to need some welding. But it looks like its holding it all back a treat. Don't think i'll use anything else now I've tried it.

[fife t4 new]

Actually done something today. Wire wheeled the sill and primed. If your using a wire wheel don't be fooled by shiny pitted areas the wheel will polish up rust and you think your done.I went over pitted areas with a stone on my dremel type thing and where looked clean metal went all brown and dusty until I got through to proper good steel. I suspect the wotsitcalled Reg recommends does a far better job but you have to run with what you have I suppose.

[QUOTE=S49;n292294]Actually done something today. Wire wheeled the sill and primed. If your using a wire wheel don't be fooled by shiny pitted areas the wheel will polish up rust and you think your done.I went over pitted areas with a stone on my dremel type thing and where looked clean metal went all brown and dusty until I got through to proper good steel. I suspect the wotsitcalled Reg recommends does a far better job but you have to run with what you have I suppose.

Its been taking ages to clean up the body cuts I got. My process is, knot wheel to get the loose rough rust off, 60 grit sanding wheel to get most of the pitted stuff out then the finger sander to get the wee pitted stuff. It's this bit that takes the time. Like you said, looks super shiny then you get wee puffs of rust dust. Even at that theres still some wee pinhead size pitted bits. Should I give these a wee skim of something before painting?? I have been priming areas as I go before I start the next bit kinda thing.

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[fife t4 new]

This is a bit I've cleaned up. Probably 1 of the worst still bits.


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[campermark71]

Actually done something today. Wire wheeled the sill and primed. If your using a wire wheel don't be fooled by shiny pitted areas the wheel will polish up rust and you think your done.I went over pitted areas with a stone on my dremel type thing and where looked clean metal went all brown and dusty until I got through to proper good steel. I suspect the wotsitcalled Reg recommends does a far better job but you have to run with what you have I suppose.

Looks a good finish, if you don't mind me asking which Bilt Hamber product did you use?

[campermark71]

Normal service resumed with an exchange generator.

Which engine do you have? I need to do my 2.5D at some point but not sure on the access.

[S49]

Its a 1.9td. The alternator is in a similar position on the 2.4 but the belt is tensioned by a separate tensioner rather than moving the alternator, I think.