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  • Originally posted by Sirfbum View Post
    Well call me Mr Tacky[emoji23]




    Tom
    But at least they're not bright orange Tom ... 🤔

    Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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    • Originally posted by Sirfbum View Post
      Well call me Mr Tacky[emoji23]




      Tom
      No way dude. Yours look fine. It's when the whole wheel is one (bright ) colour. Just don't look right to me. Remember though, it's only an opinion and what do I know? My van looks like shit, though that's how I like it.
      Your wheels are cool.
      Me cago en la madre que te parió!

      Comment


      • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
        bright orange wheels are at least a class level up from that.



        Regs' new model CT4RS ... C (for Classy) ... T4 .. RS (Really Squeezed)


        😀😁😂😃😄😅😆😉

        Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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        • You know Reg is going to do it now just because your all saying no.

          Sent from my LG-H870 using Just T4s

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          • Originally posted by Grubb05 View Post
            You know Reg is going to do it now just because your all saying no.

            Sent from my LG-H870 using Just T4s
            Oh no he won't....🤔

            Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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            • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
              Oh no he won't....��

              Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s
              Well, I suppose it is that time of year.
              oooooooohhhhhhhh yes he will.
              Me cago en la madre que te parió!

              Comment


              • Originally posted by Sirfbum View Post
                Well call me Mr Tacky[emoji23]




                Tom
                Nope not at all - that's subtle enough and still looks good - I was thinking more of the abortions you see as standard on some of the 'sporty looking' offerings from Hyundai.

                I want some of those rim protectors, where did you get yours (ebay prob) and do they go on with the tyres?

                Comment


                • Hoiked this out of Sausage's thread because it was confusing enough without having two simultaneaous fault diagnosis going on at once...............



                  Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
                  I'm making the assumption that you stayed on plan and did NOT map the van but were prepping for a pre-map test run?
                  Your IC is bypassed with standard MAP sensor & pipework?
                  Have you tested the MAP sensor? Static test using VCDS?
                  Turbo actuator is working and sealing closed?
                  Oil and levels all good?
                  Timing within spec?


                  As long as it stays electrically plugged in thats fine ie not to add any more "faults" to the current mix.
                  So, pipes off and no boost control! So short runs only right!!
                  For the process of elimination, have you got an MBC you can fit? If only to save the turbo and engine?
                  Overboosting as detected by the MAP is going to put the van into limp mode, So restricted fuel and rpm limited to 3k'ish.
                  So you're driving the van around with no boost control other than the rpm? Fit a mechanical MBC at least...

                  So you're saying the turbo is not spinning or the boosted air is not reaching the intake.
                  Overboosting is going to put the van into limp mode, So heavily restricted fuel and rpm limited to 3k'ish.
                  Plus you may be over pressurizing the engine, pushing oil into the turbo cold side.

                  If so, its either in there already or coming from the turbo seals or the engine through the air inlet pipework.
                  Either way sapping boost pressure and restricting boost flow.

                  Cleanup and a more systematic approach and work through needed?

                  Were the ports clean? Is oil being pushed into the N75?
                  Not checked or changed anything on my van
                  IC still plumbed (badly)
                  timing was in spec 12 months ago

                  N75 not plugged in as its on my workbench in bits - bit of oil in it, not a lot though

                  No boost control but also no boost - I'm guessing the air leak introduced downstream of the MAF by the open N75 pipe is causing underfuelling and no energy to spin the turbo.

                  Yes short runs only - until this morning when I had take a large detour and took sausages 'limp test hill' on route. 0 psi and 50 mph

                  Yes it is being neglected -


                  ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                  Fuelling a bit cleaner last night but still a few psi available

                  It got some attention last night - the intercooler was bypassed, the EGR solenoid, shudder flap solenoid and N75 all plugged back in electrically but not plumbed to anything, there’s still a twig rammed in one pipe and the wastegate connected direct to compressor.

                  On the plus side – the intercooler pipework was clean, there’s no oil being blown through the turbo so it’s good in that respect.

                  The test run in this morning was in conclusive, it was damp, near freezing, just gone 6 and the engine had no heat in it – I wasn’t about to cane it.


                  MOT in 3 hrs and counting……

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                    Fuelling a bit cleaner last night but still a few psi available
                    It got some attention last night - the intercooler was bypassed, the EGR solenoid, shudder flap solenoid and N75 all plugged back in electrically but not plumbed to anything, there’s still a twig rammed in one pipe and the wastegate connected direct to compressor.
                    Connect it all back to standard , excluding the EGR functionality, so N18 plugged in but plumbing not required.
                    Remove your twig - nobody but you would block a hose with a twig - ah well if it works.

                    Have you got a bike pump / suspension pump you can use to check;
                    plumb the turbo back up, check the pipes and joints are clear with no leaks.
                    the turbo actuator is free and moving, check the opening pressure
                    if you can reach, undo the cast DP and check the wastegate and its seal, a quick clean up would be a good idea with some emery.
                    Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                    On the plus side – the intercooler pipework was clean, there’s no oil being blown through the turbo so it’s good in that respect.
                    Thats really good news. If its secondhand might be worth just testing the airflow through it. What are the IC dimensions?
                    Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                    The test run in this morning was in conclusive, it was damp, near freezing, just gone 6 and the engine had no heat in it – I wasn’t about to cane it.
                    With a 4 mile work journey its never going to get up to temp.
                    Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                    MOT in 3 hrs and counting……
                    Good luck.

                    Reviewed my Volvo turbo notes, (left at Colin01332's);
                    One way valve on the top port then running actuator control through the side port, van could reach ATM+1.8bar (26psi at which point the head starts lifting, ARP's needed!)
                    So enough pressure for what I needed. MBC fitted as backup to N75 as I was testing.
                    Standalone the MBC made driving too raw, I prefer to feed the boost in at around 1500rpm so the clutch and gearbox weren't torque loaded.
                    N75 remapped worked fine.

                    I've just set this up on Colin01332's van, and he's grinning from ear-ear and belly laughing. Will try and persuade him to report back, - grumpy f'cker.
                    Running Stanadynes, my lent OEM TMIC, boost gauge now 1.1bar (so no stress), maxing out airflow diagnostics (v good) and the ability to spin the wheels (dry conditions here) in 1st and 2nd.
                    Pulls up his hill with 30% gradient in fifth at 2k.
                    Who needs f'in Bosch injectors and 0.216 nozzles!

                    Just heading back to his now with larger L200 TMIC with cooling fan config.

                    Lets get your van sorted...
                    PS Can I baggsy your injectors for my RaceVan?

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
                      Connect it all back to standard , excluding the EGR functionality, so N18 plugged in but plumbing not required.
                      Remove your twig - nobody but you would block a hose with a twig - ah well if it works.

                      Have you got a bike pump / suspension pump you can use to check;
                      plumb the turbo back up, check the pipes and joints are clear with no leaks.
                      the turbo actuator is free and moving, check the opening pressure
                      if you can reach, undo the cast DP and check the wastegate and its seal, a quick clean up would be a good idea with some emery.

                      Thats really good news. If its secondhand might be worth just testing the airflow through it. What are the IC dimensions?

                      With a 4 mile work journey its never going to get up to temp.

                      Good luck.

                      Reviewed my Volvo turbo notes, (left at Colin01332's);
                      One way valve on the top port then running actuator control through the side port, van could reach ATM+1.8bar (26psi at which point the head starts lifting, ARP's needed!)
                      So enough pressure for what I needed. MBC fitted as backup to N75 as I was testing.
                      Standalone the MBC made driving too raw, I prefer to feed the boost in at around 1500rpm so the clutch and gearbox weren't torque loaded.
                      N75 remapped worked fine.

                      I've just set this up on Colin01332's van, and he's grinning from ear-ear and belly laughing. Will try and persuade him to report back, - grumpy f'cker.
                      Running Stanadynes, my lent OEM TMIC, boost gauge now 1.1bar (so no stress), maxing out airflow diagnostics (v good) and the ability to spin the wheels (dry conditions here) in 1st and 2nd.
                      Pulls up his hill with 30% gradient in fifth at 2k.
                      Who needs f'in Bosch injectors and 0.216 nozzles!

                      Just heading back to his now with larger L200 TMIC with cooling fan config.

                      Lets get your van sorted...
                      PS Can I baggsy your injectors for my RaceVan?
                      Have to look up the N75 plumbing and sort that out as the valve itself now works fine - which only leaves wastegate. Actuator fine, has to be the valve itself leaking. I wont bother messing with it I doubt, seeing as the volvo turbo fitting is imminent.

                      Would have been useful to try your map - I probably would have been impressed - if I get a chance to drop the DP and inspct the valve perhaps I will, just to have a known good turbo rather than a suspect one. But running your map with the pathetic boost I get now would be pointless.

                      Got a mate who wants a map, he has a stock 03 T4 - can I try your map with him? would you like anything for it? I'll not be charging him, so up to you...

                      You want my stanas? I will probably strip one first - probably pop test them as removed to get an idea of the wear and then look at re-shimming if required.


                      Oh and on the MOT front - £40 and two advisories for each lower ball(ache) joint.
                      Last edited by regcheeseman; 1 December 2017, 07:49 PM.

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                        Have to look up the N75 plumbing and sort that out as the valve itself now works fine - which only leaves wastegate.
                        Actuator fine, has to be the valve itself leaking. I wont bother messing with it I doubt, seeing as the volvo turbo fitting is imminent.
                        What did you do to repair the N75?
                        Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                        Would have been useful to try your map - I probably would have been impressed - if I get a chance to drop the DP and inspct the valve perhaps I will, just to have a known good turbo rather than a suspect one. But running your map with the pathetic boost I get now would be pointless.
                        Agreed - if your vans not running right theres no point in mapping it. Load it if your van returns to standard and begins boosting.
                        Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                        Got a mate who wants a map, he has a stock 03 T4 - can I try your map with him? would you like anything for it? I'll not be charging him, so up to you...
                        Sure, try it out on him. Map is for an AJT!! Before reading file & for safety sake check their van over first & with VCDS, record any faults, then clear with VCDS.
                        Load my file as a "test drive" as I'd prefer to map their file to retain mileage data etc.
                        So, read theirs first and label it with REG#_SURNAME. Send there file to me so I can load the map to their specific van file and data.
                        Plus let me know any "tweeks" that may be needed. I can wind it back or forward as required.
                        As you mentioned recently, some T4 drivers are just happy to get there.

                        You could ask for a donation for the member on the forum who had his wheels nicked last month?
                        May be we could all chip in and give him a nicer Just-T4's Xmas????

                        Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                        You want my stanas?
                        I will probably strip one first - probably pop test them as removed to get an idea of the wear and then look at re-shimming if required.
                        Sure, I'll have them but you might want to keep them yourself.... those 0.24's may end up redundant...and surplus to requirements.
                        I'd be interested in the feedback on the pop test & shimming. Might put a pop tester on my Xmas list!
                        Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                        Oh and on the MOT front - £40 and two advisories for each lower ball(ache) joint.
                        Nice1, lets just hope its 12 months ticket with 1.1bar rather than 0.1!
                        Last edited by Activ8; 1 December 2017, 09:00 PM.

                        Comment


                        • Stripped the N75 valve, cleaned it out and reassembled it.

                          Plumbed the N75 back in yesterday but wasn't able to take it for a test drive.

                          When for a drive tonight and found the van had a whole new lease of life, solid 7 psi and the odd peak up to 9 psi - the boost gauge has never read that high in normal driving - obviously the N75 has been dying for some time.

                          Activ 8 has kindly sent me a AJT map designed for the (much maligned) stanadyne injectors - he extols the results of mapping with the stock injectors and is keen for me to give it a shot....but with a questionable turbo there didn't seem much point. However now the turbo seems to be working a bit more like it should.


                          I've been a bit scared to load a map on my good ecu and have been tryng to create a clone ecu to mess with so I always have a fall back option.

                          However, ever time I've played with the ecus the van refuses to run after, behaving like the immo is cutting in - it always has fixed itself by me removing and refitting the ECU several times until it decides to run.

                          For this reason I'm wary of messing up my only good ECU.

                          Tonight I'm going for it though as I'm on a roll, Blue Planet is on in 15 minutes and I want to watch it - so what better than doing an unknown job in a rush!

                          Grab the laptop, stick the van on charge and fire up vag can commander, load up the Activ8 magic map and fire it in......

                          No connection.....

                          Turn on ignition (oops - I said I was in a rush)

                          No connection........

                          Restart software

                          Connection and the immo writes (using write eeprom, not write flash??) in a matter of seconds - strange as before a read/write eeprom op has taken minutes????

                          Start van.

                          Van dies

                          Oh no.

                          Start van.

                          Van dies

                          Start van.

                          Van dies

                          Start van.

                          Van dies

                          Oh shit.


                          Read the eeprom back into the software, the immo off button is not greyed out so I clck that and write back to the eeprom

                          Van starts - and runs!

                          YAYYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAYAAAAAAAAAA AYYYYYYYYYYYYY!


                          Take it for a quick spin, I've not got into second gear and it is immediately obvious that the engine is running much better, keener and livlier.

                          Quick spin up the road and it's very strong to around 2500 rpm then runs out of charge , literally it would seem; as the boost gauge is hitting 9 psi and staying there. The stomp is so strong below this I know it'll be good for more.

                          Fantastic!

                          Now to sort the turbo out.



                          Couple little gripes - the engine is getting hotter much quicker (no biggy I was nailing it) glow plug light is flashing up - I'm sure 'the man' will sort this easy enough....


                          Cheers Activ8 - you did well!

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                          • Team work chaps....tidy.

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                            • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post

                              Couple little gripes - the engine is getting hotter much quicker (no biggy I was nailing it) glow plug light is flashing up - I'm sure 'the man' will sort this easy enough....
                              Nice to hear all is progressing well , but still - 9 psi????? 😭

                              Getting to temp quicker,... or overheating?

                              Code read the glow-plug flash...



                              Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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                              • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
                                Nice to hear all is progressing well , but still - 9 psi????? ��

                                Getting to temp quicker,... or overheating?

                                Code read the glow-plug flash...
                                Yep - 9 psi killing my fun early.

                                Getting to temp quicker - need a longer run to see how hot it gets

                                I'll run a code read - Blue Planet was calling me.

                                Thanks once again.

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