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  1. #1551
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    Quote Originally Posted by regcheeseman View Post
    All was fine - until the the boost pipe blew off on a hard charge down to St Ives for the weekend. "BOOOMPFF" and loads of black smoke
    Happened 4 times before my co-pilots looks encouraged me to lay off the loud pedal and keep the boost down.
    Trying to clamp on a plastic pipe that just deformed rather than clamp up tight.
    Made it though
    Wont be fitted in time for Action though, but I may get the boost pipe fixed....
    Don't the OEM plastic boost pipes have a inner brass ringlet pipe to stop the deformation when clamped?
    What was the boost pressure?

  2. #1552
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    Quote Originally Posted by Activ8 View Post
    Don't the OEM plastic boost pipes have a inner brass ringlet pipe to stop the deformation when clamped?
    What was the boost pressure?
    They do, unless some idiot cuts the oem pipe down to fit an intercooler.


    Quote Originally Posted by From post 22 of this thread
    I've been trying to avoid doing it until it was absolutely necessary, but it was making trying to eye things up near impossible, so with a jubilee clamp fitted as a cutting guide I chopped the original turbo to inlet manifold link pipe in half.



    It was somewhere between 15-20 psi

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    Do you want a couple?

    Your bolt in the actuator cap can't be working very well?
    Quote Originally Posted by regcheeseman View Post
    They do, unless some idiot cuts the oem pipe down to fit an intercooler.






    It was somewhere between 15-20 psi

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    It's not fitted - because clutch.

    I've probably got some spare pipe that will fit. Need to get that sensor fitted somewhere else and loose the pipe completely.

    Should I look for a 4 bar sensor?

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    Quote Originally Posted by regcheeseman View Post
    It's not fitted - because clutch.

    I've probably got some spare pipe that will fit. Need to get that sensor fitted somewhere else and loose the pipe completely.

    Should I look for a 4 bar sensor?
    Thought you'd bought the aluminium MAP sensor fitting last year?

    Are you planning on hitting those pressure ratios 58.8psi???? If so, yes.

  6. #1556
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    Quote Originally Posted by Activ8 View Post
    Thought you'd bought the aluminium MAP sensor fitting last year?

    Are you planning on hitting those pressure ratios 58.8psi???? If so, yes.
    I definitely looked at it - maybe I did buy one...

    30+ psi which is the nearing the upper end of the 3 bar sensor's range and I thought it was better to switch to the 4 bar in this case?

  7. #1557
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    Boost pipe fixed, it was all sorts of shapes, mostly triangular.

    I found a large bar, warmed the plastic up with hot air gun and worked it until I could fit the bar in.

    Carried on applying heat, worked the bar in circular motions to open the pipe bore up a bit, grabbed a length of stainless pipe and tapped it inside the plastic pipe.

    Should be fine now.

  8. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to regcheeseman For This Useful Post:

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  9. #1558
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    So the prep for Action begins....

    And as usual I avoid the things I actually need to do and concentrate on unimportant things like LED lights

    So you may have seen elsewhere I bought these led light bars, time to get them fitted

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    Obviously, because of the amount of crap I spout on here about wiring, I couldn't just bodge these in, it had to be a proper job, first up I failed to find a decent live feed for the DRLs and the only option is to tap into the the loom properly, which means going through the bulkhead

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    Once I have a feed, I can wire the earth and the indicator feed direct to the indicator plug and just need to tap into the original connector, so pass the wire through the seal and solder the wire onto the connector

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    And then latched home into the connector housing

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    Note the continuity error? Yep the red wire was never supposed to be connected, so had to re-do that one


    Last thing was to fit the feed for the DRLs - tapped into the fuse box using - yes a preinsulated shitty connector that I normally hate, but that was all I had in my box of bits that fitted but it is a decent AMP connector

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    So, lights done, time to get on with the oil and filter swap, first up I need to remove the intercooler that wasn't connected anyway. It's been leaking for a while and deleted a few weeks ago so I thought I'd pull it out and find the leak - nothing obvious though.

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    Filter swapped and oil changed, now I know I always bleat on about not 'over oiling' the engine and a cheap semi-synth is all that is required....

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    But look at the price! 10 for 5 litres of mobil 1, from the clearance shelf at Halfords - Barry-argain!

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  11. #1559
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    While I was under the van getting soaked in oil from the filter, I spotted a few things that need attention.

    The chassis legs bet a battering, the bottom edge of both sides needs a clean up and a coat of something, this is the worst of the two

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    This might explain the new rattle that I spotted while reversing the other day

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    Exhaust support bracket - it's obviously not an ideal setup as they always break, last time the rubber bobbin separated, now with a beefed up bobbin the bracket has stress fractured, a clean up, a bit of mig and some cold galv paint and all is good

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    Also spotted this stowaway on the back of the rad, probably jumped on as I drove by.

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    As I have noticed a slight bit of brake noise, I pulled the wheel off to check the rear pads, good job too, new pad and discs next week.

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    And finally one for Activ, who kindly donated a wastegate actuator to the cheesetowers R&D facility, it was carefully taken apart to see how it was assembled and how to add some mechanical assistance to the wastegate

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    It's almost as if it was designed to have a preload screw fitted, and the simple solution is to fit a M5 bolt in place of the resident air pipe fitting.

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    Unfortunately, because the cap is crimped, there's no real way to re-fit it and remain serviceable, but know it has given up the secrets of it's inner workings, we can modify our wastegates - as I have done earlier.

    Apologies to Activ for ruining his actuator - but it didn't die in vain, it was all in the name of education and quite literally in this case, knowledge IS power.

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  13. #1560
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    What size is the valve Reg?

    Could you use a TIAL style V-band clamp to reseal the actuator housing? Changing the spring would be useful upping it to 1 bar would claim a lot of the N75 map back for rebuilding the housing for bigger boost builds.

    So what's the plan? Remove the top port and replace it with a welded nut?

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