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I would say 240v power would go in the three connectors,looks like they have been cut off and I assume the other two connectors will be battery12v power, hard to say tho, any more pics?
I would say 240v power would go in the three connectors,looks like they have been cut off and I assume the other two connectors will be battery12v power, hard to say tho, any more pics?
It appears fairly straight forward but go careful.
So if you look at the 3 cut off wires, these look likely to be 240AC (or mains if you like) ... brown is live (switched so that it rests a neutral potential), blue is neutral and green/yellow is earth (this must be connected to the earth on the hookup, to allow this to be the most direct route to earth). Earth the chassis of the fridge to the earth return. The 240v side should be fuse protected.
It appears as if the 12vDC (battery) is the chocolate block on the right. If I could see it close up I could wire it for you. Also fuse the live (load) side of this circuit. I would test resistance in this wiring and do some terminal cleaning.
Confirm all of this by finding the electrical elements and tracing back. The selector switch will be common in the circuit (gas, 240 and 12). Test the element/elements before wiring up with a simple multimeter. (Earth leakage/open circuit and resistance).
I’m not familiar with this fridge but you should mount an ammonia fridge level (or level pitched) for best performance. Where the elements are should get hot when you fire her up and if it’s level the fridge should fairly quickly cool down ..
It appears fairly straight forward but go careful.
So if you look at the 3 cut off wires, these look likely to be 240AC (or mains if you like) ... brown is live (switched so that it rests a neutral potential), blue is neutral and green/yellow is earth (this must be connected to the earth on the hookup, to allow this to be the most direct route to earth). Earth the chassis of the fridge to the earth return. The 240v side should be fuse protected.
It appears as if the 12vDC (battery) is the chocolate block on the right. If I could see it close up I could wire it for you. Also fuse the live (load) side of this circuit. I would test resistance in this wiring and do some terminal cleaning.
Confirm all of this by finding the electrical elements and tracing back. The selector switch will be common in the circuit (gas, 240 and 12). Test the element/elements before wiring up with a simple multimeter. (Earth leakage/open circuit and resistance).
I’m not familiar with this fridge but you should mount an ammonia fridge level (or level pitched) for best performance. Where the elements are should get hot when you fire her up and if it’s level the fridge should fairly quickly cool down ..
I hope this helps.
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That is a massive help [emoji106] Thank you! I will give it a go tomorrow after work see how I get on and keep you updated
The wiring diagram doesn't match what he actually has, and the 12 v supply has no polarity - I had to take an educated guess for my wiring suggestion and hoped yours would clear any doubt, but it doesn't
The wiring diagram doesn't match what he actually has, and the 12 v supply has no polarity - I had to take an educated guess for my wiring suggestion and hoped yours would clear any doubt, but it doesn't
I'll speak to Electrolux in the morning and report their err.
Theres a few manuals online for the RM212 and clearer than mine.
Same with this one Reg, you should write and complain Electrofucks RM212F
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