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T4 : Battle Across Time (2010 to present)

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  • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post

    I did wonder if it was that, but couldn't work out why you'd need it? Just bare metal, get back to shiny fresh steel and refinish - then you can guarantee there is no underlying rust waiting to come back.

    Looks good so far, what's the plans for top coat and how will you apply it?
    Didn't have any etch primer and the bonnet has been left to the elements while I work on it. According to BH it's a good preventative measure. Time will tell.

    UPol Satin Black & Clearcoat in a can - thought your satin Golf banded rim colour would tie in nicely with my oem black bumpers. I'm trying to learn and understand whats possible...If it looks toss I'll invest in a quality hvlp gun and try again.





    Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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    • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
      Didn't have any etch primer and the bonnet has been left to the elements while I work on it.
      You have electrox and you have epoxy mastic?

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      • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post

        You have electrox and you have epoxy mastic?
        Yep I did give both a lot of thought but thought that might be a good solution for the bra converted bonnet?

        I'm going to have a play with that one.

        Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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        • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
          Guide coat and flat back to a glassy 800 grit finish - 400 first.
          With weather improving tomorrow I want to put some colour down on the bonnet.... should I plan to dry sand 400/600 then wet sand 600/800 before panel wiping and laying down the colour? Should I add another primer coat then the colour within 30 minutes as I've read that bonds the paint layers together better to reduce chips?!

          How much colour for the bonnet? 2 Coats or more?

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          • Flat your primer to ensure you have a smooth surface to paint,,,,, then paint.
            Adding another primer coat is just another layer to get bugs or runs in, apply until you are happy with your finish then 1 or 2 more.


            Sent from my SM-G960F using Just T4s

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            • This Upol goo is the nuts ....

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              • Gave the Upoo 90 minutes although it was solid after 20 just to be sure the mix was blended evenly, good job I cleaned up too. With some used wet 400 I proceeded to (errr) lightly (?) remove the primer! I'm thinking from the look and feel of the areas filled I might of needed a broader spread. It feels fine to touch and brush over. Another review with a final primer coating in the morning before the colour. Advice & trade tricks welcomed.

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                • High build, high build, high build
                  Guide coat
                  Flat back
                  Paint

                  Stop messing about like a gurt fanny

                  It won't work with rattle cans.

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                  • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                    High build, high build, high build
                    Guide coat
                    Flat back
                    Paint

                    Stop messing about like a gurt fanny

                    It won't work with rattle cans.
                    Just 1 coat of paint? I'm taking this in

                    Sent from my SM-G960F using Just T4s

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                    • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                      High build, high build, high build
                      Guide coat
                      Flat back
                      Paint

                      Stop messing about like a gurt fanny

                      It won't work with rattle cans.
                      Is that 20+ years of experiences summed up & the wisdom being passed on?

                      I ask the very basics because no one else does. We ALL want the same great results right?

                      I could watch a load of YouTubers for 48 hours solid and be none the wiser, a three part paint course for £2k might get me nearer paint Nirvana but I doubt my van would wait 2 years or my sanity at the slow drawn out pace of modern instruction.

                      I want to do it right, from the "manual" and learn from the experience at a fraction of the cost, parting with the cash or residual fallout from a paintshops often shoddy & careless work.

                      The van needs more paint TLC & Ive bought into your philosophy "do it right once, do it better" , so teach us! You know how , can clearly articulate the processes, products, techniques, tips and tricks - so share it! Please!

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                      • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
                        Is that 20+ years of experiences summed up & the wisdom being passed on?

                        I ask the very basics because no one else does. We ALL want the same great results right?

                        I could watch a load of YouTubers for 48 hours solid and be none the wiser, a three part paint course for £2k might get me nearer paint Nirvana but I doubt my van would wait 2 years or my sanity at the slow drawn out pace of modern instruction.

                        I want to do it right, from the "manual" and learn from the experience at a fraction of the cost, parting with the cash or residual fallout from a paintshops often shoddy & careless work.

                        The van needs more paint TLC & Ive bought into your philosophy "do it right once, do it better" , so teach us! You know how , can clearly articulate the processes, products, techniques, tips and tricks - so share it! Please!
                        I tend to avoid filler now at all costs, only for the odd dint or pinhole that high build wont fix.This is why I suggested going back to metal, you were putting on too much filler that you have to sand off again

                        Lay on a lot of high build, rattle cans wont work because you don't have the solids volume - well it would work, but you would need a lot of cans. Electrox is good for a rattle can as it has a lot of solids content, but that would be an expensive process using electrox.

                        Dust on a guide coat and flat back with 6-800 grit (dry), use a large block to keep areas flat and try to sand off all the guide coat, the low areas will be immediately obvious and may require remedial work.

                        As for 'paint' - no that's not a single coat but a process, which depends on what materials and method you employ..... get a FLG 5 Gravity fed gun and have a go

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                        • Thanks mentor.

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                          • you should be able to run your hands over the area with your eyes shut and not feel any lumps or bumps or edges

                            final sand wet - put a couple of drops of washing up liquid in the water

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                            • Originally posted by mike_skinner View Post
                              you should be able to run your hands over the area with your eyes shut and not feel any lumps or bumps or edges

                              final sand wet - put a couple of drops of washing up liquid in the water
                              Doesn't wet sanding make the filler shrink, I thought it made the filler soak up the water, expand and then sink as it dries or is it ok on the final sand?

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                              • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post

                                Doesn't wet sanding make the filler shrink, I thought it made the filler soak up the water, expand and then sink as it dries or is it ok on the final sand?
                                Often wondered why the ole chap never sanded filler wet.What will they think of next.

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