Originally posted by Activ8
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ABL 1.9 td fuel pump
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Originally posted by StuBob View PostI can't turn it by hand but i don't think that means its locked.
There certainly is nothing on it to suggest its locked.
Locking involves a bolt placed in the side of the pump, about an inch in from the shaft seal, just behind the mounting flange.
Yay, shaft and flange in one post
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Ok, I fitted a lock nut on the shaft and it turns-90 deg at a time.
So I'm thinking to use a clock gauge to advance pump stoke to 0.8mm, lock the shaft, then mount flange in line with the timing hole using a 6mm pin.
My problem is knowing which pump stroke is for no.1 cylinder?
Is there a way to tell that I am missing?
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Originally posted by StuBob View PostOk, I fitted a lock nut on the shaft and it turns-90 deg at a time.
So I'm thinking to use a clock gauge to advance pump stoke to 0.8mm, lock the shaft, then mount flange in line with the timing hole using a 6mm pin.
My problem is knowing which pump stroke is for no.1 cylinder?
Is there a way to tell that I am missing?
The firing order & direction of rotation are stamped on the pumphead.
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Originally posted by Activ8 View PostPost #3.
The firing order & direction of rotation are stamped on the pumphead.
The only indication I have is a keyway.
I did hope rotating the shaft would give a bubble or drip from the outlet fitting, but no.
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The markings on the pumphead are often obscured or illegible....(theory vrs practice)
Originally posted by StuBob View PostOk, I fitted a lock nut on the shaft and it turns-90 deg at a time.
So I'm thinking to use a clock gauge to advance pump stoke to 0.8mm, lock the shaft, then mount flange in line with the timing hole using a 6mm pin.
My problem is knowing which pump stroke is for no.1 cylinder?
Is there a way to tell that I am missing?
Looking at the pump end on - you time it so it is just coming up to 0.9 when the keyway on the shaft is in the 10 oclock position. Look carefully inside the flange and you'll see a witness mark where it was previously fitted against the keyway.
when you fit the 6mm pin, rotate the flange anticlockwise to take the slop out of the locking pin.
Just nip the pulley flange 19mm nut up.
When you release the shaft lock you should notice the dti will fall as the shaft returns to it's rest position - it can take a few goes before you get the flange in the correct positon - I often time up to 0.95 and that allows for a bit of fall when you release the shaft lock.
rotate the main shaft a couple of times and double check the timing before tightening the 19mm properly - I clamp flange in a vice or fit the pulley and clamp that in order to tighten the nut.
Static timing anywhere in the 0.85 - 0.95 region will be fine - you may struggle to get it spot on, you can always fine tune with the pulley slots.
The lock pin is a fin pitch m10 I think - possibly a M10 x 1.0. I use a old brake banjo with the centre drilled out and a hardened pin pressed into place
All this was covered fairly recently in tech section - some half decent info thereLast edited by regcheeseman; 15 November 2019, 11:15 AM.
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Mr Cheeseman. Sir. You are a king amongst men.
After all my head scratching I followed your post and its 5 minutes, job done!
I never thought to look inside the drive flange but sure enough a trace mark corresponds to the keyway at 10 o'clock.
I turned out a brass plug 8mm dia x 12mm long , it fitted into the lock bolt hole beneath the plug and worked a treat.
Many thanks to all who commented, suggested, took time to help. It is very much appreciated.
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I intend to keep the van for a while.
The quantity of fuel smoke, combined with the appearance and fuel pouring out convinced me to invest in a recon unit.
i normally work with marine diesels. Single speed engines and generators, gear driven pumps. I think this is the smallest diesel I have worked with!!
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Ours had trouble starting recently, just spinning over and over before going. Bubbles in the clear pipe once fired up. Changed the fuel filter including the supplied black and blue O rings on the T pipe on the filter and then all was well again. Fit the O ring in the correct place as they are coloured for a reason I suspect. Oh and ah be ya and a warm welcome to the forum from the shire.
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