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  • Bottom Ball Joints

    Going to the scrappy this morning the old tub developed a nasty knock on the nearside front. Play in the bottom joints can be missed as when jacked up all the weight is on them. I know an experienced mot tester who had one that worn it popped out while he was dropping it back to the client after it had "passed" its test. Jack up on the subframe and put a bar between the wheel and terra ferma. Then lever up, some joints may move a little up and down but you don't want any side ways movement. They are two years old on ours and I've found the left one is shot. Got the factors dropping one out this morning and i'll do a half assed how to on here later as i'm not chancing it in that condition for our 140 mile each way trip to Donny tomorrow. Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by S49; 22nd June 2019, 11:03 AM.

  • #2
    Worst part of the job is releasing the taper ,, some come easy and some are a nightmare .

    Looking at the pic Si it looks bad , look at the angle of the thread compared to the joint !

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    • #3
      Not sure mine need doing just now but this'll be a really useful how to for the future.

      Thanks Si.

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      • #4
        When I done mine I used 2 fork splitters..
        F#*I'd the 1st one.
        If you have time let them soak in wd40 / plusgas or similar for a couple of days beforehand.
        Simple enough job.

        Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Just T4s
        Owning a T5 is like going down on your sister
        The taste is similar but its just wrong

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        • #5
          Wheel off and jacked up safely. Then undo the bottom ball joint nut. Click image for larger version

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ID:	267554 It may help to wire brush the threads and a bit of plusgas but you wont get any into the taper of the joint. Never used a ball joint splitter just 5 or 6 firm smacks with a hammer on the side of the joint to release the taper.
          Last edited by Activ8; 22nd June 2019, 01:59 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by S49 View Post
            . Never used a ball joint splitter just 5 or 6firm smacks with a hammer on the side of the joint to release the taper.
            Luckily you’ve never had a tight one then Si, last one I did I hammered the crap out of it and it still didn’t come , I used a fork and it still wouldn’t budge until I got the sledge hammer out .
            Last edited by Fruitbat; 22nd June 2019, 04:20 PM.

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            • #7
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ID:	267562 Then drop the shocker bolt out and lever the wishbone down . Remove the 2 bolts holding the joint to the hub and it will come out with a tap with the hammer. Some have hex bolts some allen and some spline key bolts. Put the new joint in, start the bolts, drop into the wishbone and refit shocker bolt. Then do up the two allen bolts. Some use a buzz gun on the big bolt, I don't like them(no reason just personnel choice) it might turn on the taper but theres a torx or allen hole in the end of the thread so you can hold that and do up the nut. I use years of experience but its worth looking up the torque and finishing off with a torque wrench to be safe and sound. Including the 8 mile each way trip to my workshop its taken me an hour and a half tops. I'd charge 40 quid a side plus bits so if this helps a few on here save a few quid then that's great.
              Last edited by S49; 22nd June 2019, 01:49 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Fruitbat View Post
                Luckily you’ve never had a tight one then Si, last once I did I hammered the crap out of it and it still didn’t come , I used a fork and it still wouldn’t budge until I got the sledge hammer out .
                Had plenty of tight ones over the years, worst being the joint on the diff of a Land Rover.

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                • #9
                  The joint had only been on since September 2017. It was a Topran one, I blame all the potholes on our rural roads. How long have others had them last out of interest?
                  Last edited by S49; 22nd June 2019, 04:14 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Just had all mine done at mates garage, he stuck the full exhaust on and changed the fan belt as he saw them in the back.
                    Also did a mini service.
                    Only cost £200 all in, think I owe him a crate of beer .

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                    • #11
                      Nice guide Si , really helps when it's put straightforward with good pics.
                      I haven't done my ball joints yet even though I've had them a while.
                      Only one with slight play is track rod end so be okay for now, fingers crossed.


                      Sent from my CLT-L09 using Just T4s

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by S49 View Post
                        The joint had only been on since September 2017. It was a Topran one, I blame all the potholes on our rural roads. How long have others had them last out of interest?
                        I'd blame all those dodgey car parks you regularly frequent , meeting your "seat dealers"! [emoji38]

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                        • #13
                          You could of hit on something there Rob.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by S49 View Post
                            You could of hit on something there Rob.
                            Have a good journey up to Doncaster and meet up with Hans.

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                            • #15
                              Hi si. Nice to see a safe Axle stand under there

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