Hi knowledgbase , I have a 98 cluster I want to fit an 02 cluster,is it a case of remove 98 cluster loom from fuse board fit 02 loom and fit 02 cluster obviously with binnacle etc
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
98 cluster to 2002 cluster
Collapse
X
-
Based on TP's experiences this last 3 weeks it's not plug and play unless you're exchanging parts like for like in the 99-04 era vans. The CE2 style fuse box is identical and common for the 1990 - 2004 vans BUT they connect up differently in the connection blocks that hook into the FB. A lot of in/outputs may require different connector blocks with pigtails to speed up the exchange.
TP's input would summarise it better, although his upgrading didn't include AirCon, central locking, electric window luxuries etc.
Take a pic of your FB, front and rear and the connection types around the edges. You might also get some clues from the two cluster differences but for a 2002 lift you may need a complete loom/ECU to tap into the OBD2 & CANBUS connections for diagnostics.
There's a lot of loom and sensor differences between the later and earlier 2.5TDI types.
Sent from my SM-G988B using Just T4s
- 1 like
-
Yo.
Is your van a Tdi? I thought it was an ABL. I’ve got experience with this stuff so I might be able to help. I won’t blather on without knowing which engine though.
If you’re attempting anything like I have then my advice is this, sell it and get a transit. It just ain’t worth the heartache. Trust me on this.
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s#vanlife
- 1 like
Comment
-
Seen on another thread it’s an ACV. It’s not much trouble for you. Have you got the later cluster loom? Not sure what your early one will look like.
As long as the canbus and k line connectors go into your FB you should be plug and play. If not then you’ll just need to cut and solder some new connectors but it’ll be a piece of piss.
Nothing like the trouble of trying to connect 2003 Tdi stuff to an early (96) fusebox with no looms that work with each other or anything.
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s#vanlife
- 1 like
Comment
-
Originally posted by TommyP View PostSeen on another thread it’s an ACV. It’s not much trouble for you. Have you got the later cluster loom? Not sure what your early one will look like.
As long as the canbus and k line connectors go into your FB you should be plug and play. If not then you’ll just need to cut and solder some new connectors but it’ll be a piece of piss.
Nothing like the trouble of trying to connect 2003 Tdi stuff to an early (96) fusebox with no looms that work with each other or anything.
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s
I had the ABL then the AJA which A friend is driving around in now and living it,.. I'm back to the ACV.
This is driving great, I've replaced the heater matrix fixed clutch pedal bracket, cleaned and blanked egr, new maf, timing belt and WP, 4 balljoints, track rods, she's now driving the way a 102 should drive, with the usual bogs down on a 1:7 hill.
just flushed powersteering system yesterday (not just changed fluid) there was red in there, now it feels slightly stiff until I raise the engine rpms. Have to investigate further.
so I'm going to try plugging the instrument cluster in from the donar engine gear box, would be fantastic a then i can have my genuine 83k back instead of the 319k this says its on the engine.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Marx View Post
Hey Tommy , hope you're well bud, appreciated your help with the ABL timing by the way.., can't understand why I didn't see your reply.
I had the ABL then the AJA which A friend is driving around in now and living it,.. I'm back to the ACV.
This is driving great, I've replaced the heater matrix fixed clutch pedal bracket, cleaned and blanked egr, new maf, timing belt and WP, 4 balljoints, track rods, she's now driving the way a 102 should drive, with the usual bogs down on a 1:7 hill.
just flushed powersteering system yesterday (not just changed fluid) there was red in there, now it feels slightly stiff until I raise the engine rpms. Have to investigate further.
so I'm going to try plugging the instrument cluster in from the donar engine gear box, would be fantastic a then i can have my genuine 83k back instead of the 319k this says its on the engine.
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s#vanlife
- 1 like
Comment
-
Originally posted by TommyP View Post
Ah sweet! Yeah give it a go and then report back. “Bogs down” hahahaha - yeah sounds like an ACV. They do sound good though, especially with a 4ft straight through ‘zorst under the drivers door.
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s
Just had a look, and watched a few videos, someone was saying the constant drone at motorway speeds did their head in, I could probaly relate to that. Anyway changed the serpentine belt yesterday improved steering slightly, next up is new pump.Last edited by Marx; 11 December 2021, 10:34 AM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by Marx View Post
There's an idea.. Will have to look into that now.
Just had a look, and watched a few videos, someone was saying the constant drone at motorway speeds did their head in, I could probaly relate to that. Anyway changed the serpentine belt yesterday improved steering slightly, next up is new pump.
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s#vanlife
- 1 like
Comment
-
Originally posted by TommyP View Post
17’s. Too much van, not enough tyre, I keep splitting them.
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s
Comment
-
Happy Christmas folks!!!
New ps Pump fitted, great difference realised, no more stiff steering in tight spots. Wish bones ordered with new camber balance bolts. Can't wait to get them fitted.
I've taken a pic of the fb front and back, on the front there's fused wire bridge from bottom right pin109 ec relay to number 17 hazard turn signal fuse, when I remove the wire the engine doesn't start. The engine and box were a direct replacement from the newer model 2.5tdi,is this bridge to bypass ECU, is this why I'm getting no signal from the OBD port? Also on the rear of fb these 2 wires seem cut and shut,1is yellow and black the other is black.
Comment
-
Urgh, I’m getting flashbacks:
Not sure without going back through my pics and fag packet notes on what the others are but the OBD I had a bit of tweaking and it was the last bit I did so I might remember it. The wire for these is a white one with a grey stripe. There should be a connector block on the top row of connections on the fuse box. 2nd vertical row/column from the right as you look at it from the back of the box, if the sticker is still on there then it’ll be labelled ‘KL-K’. There should be a feed from the engine loom into it, the cluster loom and then the OBD connector.
Just looking it seems you don’t have the canbus connector, 2 orange wires with a black stripe twisted around each other with white plugs that connect into a connector block that goes into a relay position. Think it’s the top row second from the right: probably not an issue though:
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s#vanlife
Comment
-
Originally posted by TommyP View PostUrgh, I’m getting flashbacks:
Not sure without going back through my pics and fag packet notes on what the others are but the OBD I had a bit of tweaking and it was the last bit I did so I might remember it. The wire for these is a white one with a grey stripe. There should be a connector block on the top row of connections on the fuse box. 2nd vertical row/column from the right as you look at it from the back of the box, if the sticker is still on there then it’ll be labelled ‘KL-K’. There should be a feed from the engine loom into it, the cluster loom and then the OBD connector.
Just looking it seems you don’t have the canbus connector, 2 orange wires with a black stripe twisted around each other with white plugs that connect into a connector block that goes into a relay position. Think it’s the top row second from the right: probably not an issue though:
Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s
Comment
Comment