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  • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
    Check the cable port on your laptop. I found VAG K Commander times out the VCP. I think it's something to do with the cloned FTDI chip used in the cheaper cables. There's an *.ini file in the directory that you can specify and force the VCP and protocol to be used. Keep the USB port free for that specific software only.

    Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s
    Is that post available in little words/big pictures version?

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    • Have you tried the spare cloned ECU yet?

      Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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      • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
        Have you tried the spare cloned ECU yet?
        Nope. busy setting up my tig, welding bench and mig trolley set up in between easter family entertainment duties.

        It's running ok at the moment and I've still got 150 miles of clutch nursing. I'm not sure it's going to solve the lack of air/boost problem - I'm still at max 10psi on the gauge and the reason to get the welder set up is to finish the exhaust and loose the unknown tail pipe/silencer combo that could be at fault.

        I bought a 1.3 breadvan for £102 years ago that had no power, the backbox internals had collapsed and were killing the power - sorted that and the car was transformed.

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        • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
          Thought I'd get a vid this afternoon of the smoke and it was fine again.

          When it does do it, it's not thick white duff glow plug type smoke but it does chuff a bit.

          Only does it when cold, starts bad and if you leave it sat there warming up it doesn't get any better. And it stinks.

          When I drive away, as soon as I give it some enthusiastic throttle it'll lay down a good trail of white smoke for about 50 - 100 metres.

          When I install the ECU - is it immo off or on? (only so I know what to look for when inevitably it wont start and run)
          I've been thinking about your white smoke, unique to your build.
          Never experienced it to date so we might need to adjust the boost and open the N75 map - but little or no point until you start using v2.
          I was wondering whether the lightened (-22%) and balanced (?) flywheel may have something to do with a possible delay/catch-up in fuel delivery when accelerating?
          None of the users with this setup report any white smoke but none have an SMF fitted..... its been quite the opposite with me backing off the start of injection fuelling 25% on the Volvo setup and 18-20% on the OEM K14.

          Any feedback from your work colleague on the AJT K14 remap?

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          • The white smoke is nothing to do with the map. The van has always done it. I had always put it down to the stanas, a lot of AJTs do it and injectors seem to be the most common cause.
            I had a good run to Bude today. Lost count of the times it went into limp. Even coming back low on fuel and hypermiling it i still went i to limp a few times. Yeah i know what you're gonna say and no I've not fitted it, yeah yeah i am bloody useless.

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            • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
              The white smoke is nothing to do with the map. The van has always done it. I had always put it down to the stanas, a lot of AJTs do it and injectors seem to be the most common cause.
              I had a good run to Bude today. Lost count of the times it went into limp. Even coming back low on fuel and hypermiling it i still went i to limp a few times. Yeah i know what you're gonna say and no I've not fitted it, yeah yeah i am bloody useless.
              It's going to trip into limp mode if you're not making the specified boost. I could broaden the limp/trip window to reduce the occurrences but I'd prefer to play on v2 if the problem remains. Load v2 and we can move it on.

              Have you tried an MBC yet? Might be a simple temp fix if you still wish to hold-off installing / using v2 or load the 1 bar map I sent to you?

              Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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              • Good lord I think I've stumbled upon a parallel universe.

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                • Originally posted by S49 View Post
                  Good lord I think I've stumbled upon a parallel universe.
                  Welcome. ... enjoy the journey ....

                  Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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                  • I will mate.

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                    • The not so mighty boost.

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                      • Feeling guilty about Activ putting in the work getting my ECU sorted and me being disrespectful and ignoring it I thought I'd better give it a go.

                        New ECU fitted and surprise surprise it wont run

                        Old ECU back in and now that wont run either.

                        No I remember why I didn't want to do this job..... because a ten minute part swap invariably leaves me with a dead van and 3 hours pissing about.

                        So, drag out the laptop, I read codes and take screenshots and generally put together a post for later forumising......

                        Something went wrong and I lost the post completely. arsebiscuits.

                        Basically just as before I lost the crank sensor signal and the only positive was the fact the immo box now seems to recognise my original chip.

                        I cleaned the contacts with servisol and then washed it off with brake cleaner, it was at this point I noticed that the rubber seal on the connectors was picking up on the housing and slightly stopping the two connections from mating properly. I removed both seals and plugged the original ECU back in, it fired straight up and idled cleanly.

                        Amazed that such a seemingly insignificant issue could cause all these problems I swapped the new ECU in - and it wouldn't run, swapped back to the old ECU and now that wouldn't run either. more arsebiscuits.


                        Eventually I got it running on the old ECU and also for the first time I managed to replicate the wiring fault - causing the crank sensor fault codes to come and go. Funnily enough, when the fault was caused the engine dies and there's a fast clicking from the fuel pump area at about 150 - 200Hz. No idea what it is (IQ adjuster?) but you can vaguely hear the same clicking when the engine is running or at least I now think I can hear it???

                        When the engine is killed by me moving the wiring on the small connector I get these codes, the first two I can ignore for the time being


                        5 Faults Found:
                        18020 - Engine Control Module Incorrectly Coded
                        P1612 - 35-00 - -
                        18048 - Internal Contr. Module (EEPROM) Error
                        P1640 - 35-00 - -
                        17569 - Manifold Temp Sensor (G72): Open or Short to Plus
                        P1161 - 35-00 - -
                        17564 - Manifold Pressure Sensor (G71): Open/Short to Ground
                        P1156 - 35-00 - -
                        16705 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Implausible Signal
                        P0321 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent



                        I'm guessing all those sensors share a similar wire somewhere, got to pour over wiring diagrams later.

                        One final problem....I checked the timing which doesn't look too bad but the pixel seems to be a little way off 55? AND what's going on with the fuel temp, it was a cold engine and the measuring blocks figure measured seconds later shows a more realistic figure

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	fuel temp error.jpg
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ID:	263517

                        Now I've seen similar figures on timing graphs posted online before and a few people querying the figure but no definite answer.

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                        • Long story short...V2 ECU wont run and vag commander or MPSS will not write - MPSS receives from the ECU, vag commander does nowt - antivirus is off

                          And running the output test in vagcom only seems to do anything on the glow plug relay and light tests - would expect some clicking on the other tests.
                          Last edited by regcheeseman; 4 April 2018, 12:33 AM.

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                          • Reg. How can I help?
                            Your cloned & spare ECU ran in my AJT for 1 hour with logrun. No faults other than one relating to my K24 hybrid turbo and the boost map setup in v2. All good on the bench all good on the road.



                            Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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                            • In the vagcom screenshot what's in the bottom right hand corner? 1Z All 1994> Do you not have a Transporter engine selection?

                              When you install the cloned ECU what are the error codes in Vagcom? Are they immo errors , adaption errors , engine / eeprom faults?

                              Happy to help.

                              Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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                              • From Ross Tech Site

                                Engine Control Unit (ECU) Swapping (USED ECU)

                                Prerequisites:

                                The REPLACEMENT (USED) ECU is installed in the car.Battery voltage at least 12.5 V.All relevant coding and adaptation values have been transferred from the ORIGINAL (OLD) ECU to the REPLACEMENT (USED) ECU.Make sure to have BOTH PIN's, from the ORIGINAL (OLD) and the REPLACEMENT (USED) ECU.Make sure to have the Radio Code (for factory radios only).


                                [Select]
                                [01 - Engine]

                                [Login - 11]
                                For the following procedure,*use the PIN of the REPLACEMENT (USED) ECU.

                                4-digit PINThe PIN needs to be entered as 5-digit number in the New Value box.*For example, if your PIN is 1234, enter 01234.

                                [Do it!]


                                [Adaptation - 10]
                                Enter 050 in "Channel Number".
                                [Read]
                                For the following procedure,*use the PIN of the ORIGINAL (OLD) ECU.

                                4-digit PINThe PIN needs to be entered as 5-digit number.*For example, if your PIN is 1234, enter 01234.

                                [Test]

                                The values may change to "32000", this is normal

                                [Save]
                                [Done, Go Back]
                                [Close Controller, Go Back - 06]


                                Switch OFF the ignition and let the car sit for ~1 minute, then switch ON the ignition again.Verify that the REPLACEMENT (USED) ECU now shows the VIN and if supported IMMO-ID of the vehicle now.Verify that the REPLACEMENT (USED) ECU has the same Coding as the original unit, or code it from scratch using the repair manual or coding chart in VCDS when applicable.*



                                Sent from my SM-G901F using Just T4s

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