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My second T4, operation de-chav

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  • #46
    Fitting up now, first up the leg gets fitted to the table




    And with the leg closed up again



    Tidy.


    Dropping the table back into it's normal role as the rear storage lid, the table leg just tucks in place lovely.




    After considerable extensive negotiations with my style consultant I was guided to the conclusion that the carpet was indeed "facking sh1t".

    After a couple of weeks, It's been ripped out and I've started to fit a replacement

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    • #47
      Tuesdays night and with one kid out of the house at cubs I can crack on with projects, so crack on I did...

      First up get the rest of the floor laid,



      Lots of fiddly cutting of bits as I reach the other side of the van and have to cut around the door step and rear arch



      Still have to finish the trimming around the rear doors.

      Now the floor is in I can start to fit the doors, first up I had to cut down the screws used to fix the hinges so that they dont punch through the paint when fitted, I screwed them into a spare bit of thinner board, then took any protruding bits down using a file.

      Now I was in a position to fix the doors back onto the carcasses.



      Now to start to take some pictures that can be used to apply for campervan status from the DVLA

      Cooker flap down gives me a useful little table for making a brew - notice the thin strip of carpet on the edge of the door - there's a reason for this soon to be revealed



      The cupboard doors all work fine and fit perfectly - well happy



      Now to test fit the table,




      I'd not thought about a possible problem with the table fouling on the cooker flap but I needn't have worried, there's about 3mm clearance




      And with the front seats swivelled it all works well.



      Yay - nearly finished



      as if - the to do list is still as long as it ever was, there's always something else to tweak or improve

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      • #48
        Quick q regarding the side step. How did you manage to get it to fit over the flooring? I'm having a real nightmare, even with the extended GRP ones.


        Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s mobile app

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        • #49
          a piece of wood on the underside of the step equal to the extra flooring height.

          the step just fits in there snug because the edges of the metal step are covered with a 10mm thick acoustic foam which the step liner seem to grip on.

          Need a bit of a tweak before I rhino seal it into place,



          note the back edge of the step is bowing slightly because there's a fitting on the back of the plastic liner thats not fitting quite right

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          • #50
            Coming on well mate, I'm sure you have said but what paint have you used? The finish is really good.


            Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s mobile app

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            • #51
              Originally posted by Jonnybigballs85 View Post
              Coming on well mate, I'm sure you have said but what paint have you used? The finish is really good.
              Paint is just a cheap single stage 2K, applied with a £15 bergen mini HVLP gun from ebay - it's all about the prep - lots of prep.

              Silly little job tonight, I'd made a miscalculation involving the cooker cover panel.

              There is a rebate cut into the hob fold up flap to allow the cooker cover to fold down flush - but there's a small section of fixed cupboard panel with no rebate so I would have had to cut the cooker cover down to clear this section and that cut out would bug the hell out of me.

              The only solution is to cut a rebate out of the fixed panel, first up I had to peel off the covering carpet and then cut a rebate, I wasn't sure how I could cut this in neatly but was blessed today....

              A nurse turned up with a ring cutting tool that needed a new blade but she could work out how to fit it, I quickly sussed it out and she left me with the old blade - a fine toothed 40mm diameter stainless saw blade mounted on a centre boss with a M5 mounting.
              I added a section of m5 studding to make a saw blade that would fit in a dremel.

              I started to cut out a rebate


              Now with it cut and tidied up


              Glue the carpet back in, the rebate is done and my ocd is appeased again.


              Like I said, silly little job but makes me happy.

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              • #52
                My T4 lacks a centre console to stash bits and pieces and house extra switches, I know you can buy loads on ebay for not a lot but I wanted to make my own.

                Using a cardboard template I cut out the bits from scrap wood


                Fitting the bits together


                By the time it got to this stage


                I could try for a test fit and just wasn't happy, I tried to trim the sides to fit better and just gave up and started again with new side pieces


                Test fitting was much better


                The holes cut in the side are there because there is a large heater vent in the plastic panel behind, rather than block it completely I have channelled the hot air out the sides.

                Some carpet trimming had to happen



                Now for the bit I'm not sure about....


                I had an idea that would bring some of design in the back of the van into the cab area.....


                However it seems a bit, erm.....'triumph dolomite'




                Another test fitting before I wire in switches and a boost gauge.



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                • #53
                  Another job off the list tonight, a deal popped up for some sachs HD shocks a while back and knowing my rears were an advisory it made sense to get a set and stash them for later.

                  I've procrastinated for a while and decided to whack them on

                  The front set went on easy, no siezed bolts, just unbolt and swap



                  As for the rears, same story, no hassles at all



                  Everything greased/copper slipped and bolted back up.

                  Only fly in the ointment was I couldn't see anything wrong with the shocks that came off, the HD sachs units are supposed to transform the ride - feels exactly the same to me.

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                  • #54
                    Fitted the heated seat switches from the mazda, a couple of ebay cheap widow switches and a boost gauge, stuck on some genuine carbon fibber and found a sticker left over from doing my wheels



                    looks a whole lot more up to date.

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                    • #55
                      Started to wire up the back of my centre console



                      Some time later



                      At this point I tested it and found it nearly all worked, but the right window wouldn't go down, I blamed the cheapo ebay switches and spent ages messing about until I found an intermittant fault in the window control box, as the box wasn't the 'one touch' version I hoped it might be and it added nothing to the window setup I removed it completely. Windows now work fine.

                      Now for some styling antics, having spent ages removing the stripes off my van, I thought I'd put some more back on.

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                      • #56
                        I'll admit I'm not totally chuffed with the new boost gauge that turned up in the post, more accurate than the first one though



                        A mate sent it to me taking the P155 about my laminate wood centre console


                        Wires routed through the dashboard lowers


                        Whilst in there I fitted a changeover relay to automatically switch all the interior electrics over to the leisure battery when the key is removed, simple enough to do, owes me £2 and works perfect.

                        Well chuffed with this purchase, a cup holder/coin holder from a lupo bought because it looked like it might fit
                        ar perfect

                        And fit it did.... near perfect





                        nice one.

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                        • #57
                          Clever stuff.

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                          • #58
                            Any chance of some more info on the change over relay?


                            Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s mobile app

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                            • #59
                              Originally posted by Jonnybigballs85 View Post
                              Any chance of some more info on the change over relay?

                              Yeah, the interior electrics (interior lights/radio) are fed via fuse 21 - at least the radio is on my van because I wired it so that it doesn't need the key inserted.

                              I used a standard 30A 5 pin change over relay fitted in a standard VW relay block mounted on top of the fusebox and a pukka VW fuse holder mounted alongside so that it all looks OEM.

                              Typical fag packet sketch -



                              Fuse 21 removed



                              The common terminal (30) on the relay is connected via the fuse into the red wire that supplies radio and interior lights, VW have fitted a connection here that you could tap into

                              The NC (normally connected- 87a) terminal of the relay is connected to the leisure battery via a fuse at the battery end.

                              The NO (normally open - 87) terminal of the relay is connected to the original starter battery 12v feed, this is taken direct from the 12V busbar spades on the rear top of the fuseboard

                              Terminal 86 is connected to the (SU) switch in the ignition - for convenience and tidy installation, this is picked up on the back of the fuseboard from the brown/red wire coming out of plug H terminal 7 (lower right of fuseboard)

                              Terminal 85 goes to earth - the earth common terminal on the side of the fuseboard mounting bracket.


                              The operation is as follows.

                              WIth no key inserted the relay is not energised and the contacts rest on the normally closed contacts, power is supplied to the van using the leisure battery/hook up. The van battery is disconnected

                              When the key is inserted the brn/red wire supplies 12v, the relay energises and the contact switches across to the NO terminal, the van starter battery is now supplying the interior lights and radio. The leisure battery is now disconnected (it remains connected to the VSR charging relay though)



                              You could use a really basic version of this set up with no relay that relies on the leisure battery all the time.

                              Unplug the red wire coming from fuse 21 (red single terminal spade connector behind fuseboard) and plug in the leisure battery instead (via a fuse) however it may be possible depending on your wiring that the leisure battery tries to takes it's charge via this connection instead of the VSR and blows the fuse. Using the relay removes this possibility.

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                              • #60
                                Tried to get the money back on the the original boost gauge via a claim on ebay, and after the ebay seller dragging out the claims process by asking for a video of the fault then complaining it was the wrong format I eventually got ebay to step in and the money was back in paypal account in 20 minutes.

                                Looking on ebay for a replacement and practically every cheapo boost gauge on ebay has the same fault, they read well under. I think when they fit the nut on the fitting on the back it twists the bits inside and skews the zero.

                                I cut the gauge open, bent the aneroid? tube gently until the gauge read zero. I took the gauge to work and calibrated it using a calibrated pressure meter and the boost gauge displayed 18.5 -19 psi at an actual 20 psi - so it's not a mile out.

                                I was sent a piece of spare carbon fibre from T4Noobie on T4 forum.



                                I covered it in masking tape, marked it up and then cut out the various holes,




                                all good so far - very easy to work, I used a slit disc in a grinder to rough the shape out, drilled the starter holes for the switch cutouts followed by a dremel grinding disc, a hole saw for the big hole and I will finish off with files and a sanding block.

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