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My second T4, operation de-chav

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  • Yeah my vote goes to the magnets. Nice, simple, hidden.

    Sent from my SM-N950F using Just T4s

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    • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
      Use C section to hook around your thin ladder framing.

      It wouldn't rattle for sure with those magnets! Nicely inlayed it would be invisible.
      The width of the c section will push the panel out by a small amount and it wont line up properly. I'd have to stick the magnet onto the surface of the panel which would make it stick out even more, cant rebate the panel to take a magnet because the panel is only 3mm thick.

      I will recess the frames to take a magnet and the washer, bonding the magnet into the base of the hole - then the panel will sit flush to the frame and not slip because the washer will be located in the hole in the frame but fixed to the panel.

      That's the latest plan anyway...
      Last edited by regcheeseman; 17th January 2020, 12:23 AM.

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      • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post

        The width of the c section will push the panel out by a small amount and it wont line up properly. I'd have to stick the magnet onto the surface of the panel which would make it stick out even more, cant rebate the panel to take a magnet because the panel is only 3mm thick.

        I will recess the frames to take a magnet and the washer, bonding the magnet into the base of the hole - then the panel will sit flush to the frame and not slip because the washer will be located in the hole in the frame but fixed to the panel.

        That's the latest plan anyway...
        Use a Z section then, requires no magnets & would be flush. You would just need to play with the placement of the top bracket to allow for the lift and pulling out from the bottom off of the frame base. Simple as long as the top face didn't over hang the fascia panel.

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        • wont work.

          if you have enough clearance on the top to allow you to lift the panel, in the lowered position it wont catch on the frame so the top section would come adrift. If you shorten the return on the lower bracket so the distance required to lift is shortened, then it could work. But the brackets would have to be slightly loose on the frame and you would have to address the rattles.

          Also the removable 'service' panels fit adjacent to other fixed panels effectively forming an access window - no room to move the panel except pulling it straight off the surface. I want the service panels to be as invisible as possible so no big gaps and no visible fixings. I could make a door and hinge it with a latch but then I need enough space to allow the panel to swing open on a hinge.

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          • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
            wont work.

            if you have enough clearance on the top to allow you to lift the panel, in the lowered position it wont catch on the frame so the top section would come adrift. If you shorten the return on the lower bracket so the distance required to lift is shortened, then it could work. But the brackets would have to be slightly loose on the frame and you would have to address the rattles.

            Also the removable 'service' panels fit adjacent to other fixed panels effectively forming an access window - no room to move the panel except pulling it straight off the surface. I want the service panels to be as invisible as possible so no big gaps and no visible fixings. I could make a door and hinge it with a latch but then I need enough space to allow the panel to swing open on a hinge.
            It wasn't a particularly good diagram at midnight but you're right, fiddly with the return & not as tight a fit as the magnets. Could you skin the frame with something lighter than ply? You'd get a finish and a strong surface tension with coloured carbon fibre sheet?

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            • A full sheet 2.4 x 1.2 of 3mm ply is about 4kg - not that heavy. probably 2.5 sheets in the full build including the boxing on the seats.

              I did think about a skin of carbon, ally sheet or composte ally sandwich, carbon would be ideal, wonder how big a sheet you can buy and how much..... edit: £250 a sheet is the best I've found for 1mm thick.

              I'm designing the whole pod to be removable, I could just skin it in ply then use that for a mould, that would be the dream, I could loose the framework then.
              Last edited by regcheeseman; 17th January 2020, 01:09 PM.

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              • Another friday afternoon playing with the van and I optimistically thought I could get all the framework finished for the cupboards.

                I actually only managed to get the offside section about 90% complete, but at least it was progress

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                The first task was to get the battery fixed down properly, A section of batten was cut with a recess to locate the base of the battery under at the forward end, and a threaded insert in the floor allowed a bracket to bolt the battery down.

                The front face of the cupboards already complete, I needed a batten to fix down the side of the van that I could fix the horizontal battens to and form the basic box shape. An angled front edge was incorporated to make the box less, errr box like.

                I'm a bit put out that there is a fair bit of enclosed space not being utilised for anything, I will lose a lot of storage in the new van build but I hope that means I carry less crap. I had a massive cupboard in the back of the old van layout and it was rarely used for anything so I am sure less cupboards will not be the problem I think it will.

                With the bottom section of the cupboard constructed I wanted to add in a slightly higher section towards the rear of the van, the original plan was to make this a lot taller, then I decided to not have it at all, then I remembered I wanted something to house the speakers so the height of this additional section is governed by the space needed to fit a speaker and limited by trying to fit it below the hinge arrangement on the rear door - not sure why I made this a thing, the hinges will be gone soon enough.

                So the second stage was added

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                Quite happy with the two cross halving joints made for the angled batten, my old woodwork teacher Mr Hudson would be impressed, probably less impressed with me cutting the tenon by pushing a circular saw sideways as a kind of rudimentary router.

                A few bits left to fit, need to get another pack of batten, but it is sturdy and lightweight at around 4kg.

                Trying to find some sort of receptacle I can mount to the underside of the counter top to for a well or open pocket that I can just chuck odds and sods in that will keep them from sliding around the van but also readily accessible and some cup holders that I can sink into the cupboard top, by the sides of the seats.

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                • Nice work Reg, but I think I can smell those work boots from here.
                  Me cago en la madre que te parió!

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                  • That's the families walking boots, they always end up with me to clean.

                    no update for a bit, but I've been busy, not that you'd notice, fleshing out the offside cupboard is taking an age, loads of tweaks and mods, and measuring and cutting, drilling, countersinking, gluing and screwing.

                    With the one unit mostly complete and how I want it, I merely had to copy the rear section of it to make the nearside unit which runs up to the sliding door, few unbroken hours this afternoon and the second unit's framework is complete.

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                    Just need to make the cupboard/pocket section and then I can skin over the framework and get them fitted. Though I have had a bit of a new idea for the pockets on the original unit so they will probably take a few more hours yet to get right.

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                    • There's an angled section in front of the front storage box that's not much use for anything and being keen to make use of any available space I thought this would be as good a place as any for the heater controller and a few switches. I don't like things just randomly plonked in panel work, they must also be accessible so not tucked away either.

                      Started to make up a panel but wanted to make it a little more interesting than a flat panel

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                      Two pieces cut out and then bonded together with wood glue and a temporary fit to make sure it works before it gets fitted to the unit and eventually trimmed.

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                      Looks a bit rough at the moment, should be fine with some four way stretch carpet and the recessed parts fitted properly.

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                      • Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                        Started to make up a panel but wanted to make it a little more interesting than a flat panel

                        Two pieces cut out and then bonded together with wood glue and a temporary fit to make sure it works before it gets fitted to the unit and eventually trimmed.

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                        Looks a bit rough at the moment, should be fine with some four way stretch carpet and the recessed parts fitted properly.
                        Looking good. Why is the heater controller so scratched - it was new right? Are they little speakers / tweeters?
                        Last edited by Activ8; 18th February 2020, 11:17 PM.

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                        • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post

                          Looking good. Why is the heater controller so scratched - it was new right? Are they little speakers / tweeters?
                          Controller still has the protective film on it, hopefully still fine under that.

                          Vibe black air tweeters. Having toyed with some Alpine co-axials I went back to the same speakers I had in my old van build - a set of Vibe Black Air components. Having spotted that my FLI amps have a sticker on them saying 'made by Vibe' might explain why the amps and speakers work so well together. Shame they look so tacky, I sprayed the rim on the woofers matt black to take the bling away, but the tweeters are less easy to paint

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                          • Since you have sunk the tweeter in make a trim ring and cover it in black speaker cloth. Will hide it nicely.

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                            • You won't notice them when they're full of sand , crisp & biscuit crumbs! Lots of trim pieces at the scrappy?

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                              • Since you have sunk the tweeter in make a trim ring and cover it in black speaker cloth. Will hide it nicely.

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