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2.5 Engine rebuild

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  • 2.5 Engine rebuild

    A lot of the block has already been cleaned up and repainted. It was stripped down, big ends and oil pump inspected, new crank seals fitted both ends and a new water pump fitted.
    Click image for larger version

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    Before I bolted up the head I needed to find TDC and mark it u, so I bolted some angle iron down across no1 cylinder and fitted a pointer made from welding rod to the flywheel end of the crank.
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    I then brought the engine up to TDC, which it stopped short of as the piton hit the angle iron. I made a mark where my pointer was.
    I removed the angle iron, guided the piston past TDC, refitted the angle and brought the piston back up until it stopped again and made another mark. I now have two marks that are an equal distance from TDC. Measure the gap put a mark in the middle and that is TDC.
    For double measure I put another temporary pointer and mark at the other end using crank pulley (not yet torqued up)
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    Time for the head to go on
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    Its missing a few bits
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    Aha, there they are – cheers Activ.
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    New Lithuanian lifters – decent ones though. INA
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    Elring gaskets throughout, new bolts an a MLS 2 hole head gasket going on as I measured the piston protrusion with the DTI.
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    Head fitted, cam caps at 20Nm, head bolts tightened in four stages 40Nm, 60Nm, 90 degrees and 90 degrees
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    Glow plugs and injectors fitted, the lines were scabby so got cleaned up, before and after in this shot
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    All fitted and pump locked up at .55
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    That's it for today, had to go to work...

  • #2
    Did you have the head skimmed ?

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
      Did you have the head skimmed ?
      Nope, it wasn't leaking. No point skimming a head, if it needs skimming, bin it and buy another.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post

        Nope, it wasn't leaking. No point skimming a head, if it needs skimming, bin it and buy another.
        If you bin any , I’ll have them please .

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        • #5
          Yeehah Cowboy.

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          • #6
            I'm of the opinion thats its best only to skim as a last resort. There are loads that if out of tolerance the recommendation is the scrap pile. Foxhole Vectra 16 valve for one.

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            • #7
              If the cam runs in the head, because the head is warped it'll potentially ruin/snap the cam or just warp again after a few heat cycles

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              • #8
                Yep fella i know in the trade had a head machined by a well known and respected engine builder in Hereford, ran fine for a few minutes then the cams seized up and that was that. The Volvo 340 1.4 (Reno push rod motor) couldnt be machined, loads tried but never got the head gasket to hold after.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by S49 View Post
                  Yep fella i know in the trade had a head machined by a well known and respected engine builder in Hereford, ran fine for a few minutes then the cams seized up and that was that. The Volvo 340 1.4 (Reno push rod motor) couldnt be machined, loads tried but never got the head gasket to hold after.
                  Wouldn’t the cam typically be in the block in a pushrod? Also, if it’s pushrod and therefor assumed to be older, wouldn’t it be all cast iron? Or am I just hung up on thinking they’re all like an A-Series?


                  Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s
                  #vanlife

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                  • #10
                    What's an A series? The mercedes?

                    Anyway...I fitted the manifolds up today, was going to post up a picture but CBA as it is too boring. Just image the previous picture but with manifolds fitted.
                    Loads of fun was had cleaning the intake.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TommyP View Post

                      Wouldn’t the cam typically be in the block in a pushrod? Also, if it’s pushrod and therefor assumed to be older, wouldn’t it be all cast iron? Or am I just hung up on thinking they’re all like an A-Series?


                      Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s
                      Yep cam in the block but the heads were alloy, wet liners they did a cross flow head on the Alpine like are dad has.A series? Use more oil than fuel after 20000 miles and dont start me on the god awful BMC K series ok in a hillclimb car with regular strip downs but in a road car its a kettle waiting to boil, Fucking ole rubbish.

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                      • #12
                        I was going to leave the cam cover grotty but decided to degrease it, scrub it with scotch pad and dust it with some rattle can.
                        Glad I made the effort.
                        You may only view thumbnails in this gallery. This gallery has 1 photos.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by regcheeseman View Post
                          I was going to leave the cam cover grotty but decided to degrease it, scrub it with scotch pad and dust it with some rattle can.
                          Glad I made the effort.
                          Its that attitude of taking it "just one step further" that I love about you Reg. Adding value all the time.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
                            Adding value all the time.
                            As I'm building the motor to sell thats the idea...

                            However I think it's prone to the law of diminishing returns as I put more work in

                            I reckon there's about 15 hours in the rebuild, probably £400 in parts. Is it worth £400 more now than it was worth as a dirty motor with a bust cam.....mmm probably; worth an extra £400 plus 15 hours of my time....no probably not - unless I'm well under minimum wage, best have a word with the boss.

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                            • #15
                              Reg.

                              I’ve just found this post. It’s spot on. I’m planning the same kind of rebuild with an engine I got from Tommy. I’ve never done anything like it before, so this thread is really helpful. I learn by doing and seeing things in the flesh. I can read a Haynes manual but it never really makes any sense. I’m just stripping the engine at the moment and now starting to understand what stuff is. Eg. Hydraulic lifters, valve stem seals, a ‘lobe’ on a camshaft.... and I saw an oil pick up pipe for the first time about 2 weeks ago.. oooohhhhh....It was soooo exciting. Yep, I know it’s pathetic, and I do mock myself, but I’m like a pig in poo. Having the time of my life, just slowly wrecking a perfectly good engine. I’m sure Tommy is just be rolling his eyes right now.

                              Thanks again for the pics and for taking the time to post this up.

                              frenchy.

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