The Caveman Chronicles

[Fruitbat]

For this I’ll need: a new core, a K24 compressor wheel and a friendly sheep shagging engineer.

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Do you know one ?

[TommyP]

Do you know one ?

Not a friendly one


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[regcheeseman]

friendly sheep shagging engineer.

First read it and obviously assumed you meant me, but you meant the daffodil muncher didn't you?

[TommyP]

First read it and obviously assumed you meant me, but you meant the daffodil muncher didn't you?

Yes and you’re the Devonian fuckpig. Try not to confuse the two.


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[arfur fox-acre]

First read it and obviously assumed you meant me, but you meant the daffodil muncher didn't you?

See, its not always about you Reg.

[TommyP]

This van is sat up the drive with both front calipers off and the flexis clamped. Trying to keep driving it to a minimum as rear brakes alone is not good.

When I fitted the shalhambralaxy 300mm vented fronts, I only had the original small copper section between the caliper and the flexi and it didn’t bolt up to the caliper like it should so it’s been flapping around pissing in the wind for erm. A very very long time and many many miles. Much to my surprise, the flexis failed before the copper bit so I had some braided ones made up for it. £20 each from an epic place near me: this place also does clutch relining so I spoke to them about the clutch that’s just come out of it. They only use organic materials and the prices are typically £15 for relining a clutch disc!! The do a lot of work for tuning firms in our area (their bread and butter is commercial stuff though) they can also uprate the clamping force on plates themselves. Either firming up the original or by machine it to accept a dual diaphragm setup. The prices are unbelievable. Sachs can shove their £600 SRE kit knee deep up their arses!! They showed me one they had done for a local Volvo tuner and it was no bigger than mine in my van and he runs the petrol turbos up to 500bhp no trouble! Sometimes you just strike gold with who you stumble across.

I’ve also got a fairly seized caliper so I got a repair kit for both fronts on the old nail.

I’ve got some new rocker bolts to go in too to stop it haemorrhaging oil everywhere like a James Bond defence system.


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[TommyP]

I fitted the new rocker bolts today and just torqued them to 30 as 10nm is just a joke and my wrench doesn’t go that low.

I also sorted the calipers. A total piece of piss and I’d highly recommend anyone do it rather than throw a load of money for an exchange one from a factors or a used and unknown one from ebay or the like. Can even be done with the caliper staying connected to the flexi. I had to change the flexis anyway so that bit made no odds to me.

Bit of a how to for anyone: let me know if I’ve missed anything and I’ll edit.

Make sure you’re not low on brake fluid in your reservoir as you’ll lose some doing this and you don’t want to introduce air into the system as you’ll then have to bleed all 4 corners.

Pads out and caliper released from the carrier then use the pedal to push the piston out the cylinder: If you’re doing this wothout removing the flex from the caliper then clamp the flexi now to avoid losing too much fluid. Either with a brake flexi clamp or some mole grips with some plastic or rudder between them and the flexi to stop the teeth of the moleys damaging the rubber.

There’s a square seal inside which is removed with a small screwdriver or whatever is handy:

Clean up the crud from inside where this seats and the inside of the cylinder. I got a kit that included a new piston but I reckon I could have used a soft type wire wheel to clean mine up like brass or similar.

Then comes fitting the new stuff: the kit comes with some special red hydraulic grease that’s suitable for use with brake fluid so be sure to use that on the square seal and the leading edge of the piston that pushes past the seal. The external seal that keeps shit away from the piston can either be fitted over the outside of the caliper on some or like mine was, it starts internal so I got that in first, can be a tad fiddly but if I managed then any retard could. Just use your hands as the piston and cylinder it slides into are machine fairly close by a builders standards so you don’t want to start smashing away at it with a hammer as it just isn’t needed and is perfectly doable with 2 hands unless your a millennial snowflake that only has the strength in your hands and wrists to type self entitled or offended responses on social media. If not, then you’ll be fine. Worth noting, if you’re not disconnecting the flexi the open up the bleed nipple to let the air escape so you can push the piston in.

My kit also has some new rubber guides for the sliding pins so these also went in and the caps that are often missing are also included.

Then with mine I refitted the caliper with my custom braided lines: then pump your pedal up before you use an eazibleed to get the air out. If you don’t have an eazibleed then you’re a moron. They’re £20 and make it a quick one man operation so have a word with yourself. Yes I mean you now Reg. Si is excused as it’s a given that he prefers the archaic and medieval methods.



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[S49]

Yep, i have a pipe with a bolt in the end, a small cut just up from the bolt length ways on the pipe in a coke bottle with enough fluid to cover the cut. With the nipple open pump the pedal smoothly and you feel it firm up as the air comes out.Working for 19 years on your own you cant expect the wife to make a 16 mile round trip everytime you fitted a brake cylinder or replaced a rusty pipe.Do i long for those days again? Nope, but now really enjoy doing my own vehicles. Must say its T4's and this forum that reawakened my interest in motors.

[TommyP]

Yep, i have a pipe with a bolt in the end, a small cut just up from the bolt length ways on the pipe in a coke bottle with enough fluid to cover the cut. With the nipple open pump the pedal smoothly and you feel it firm up as the air comes out.Working for 19 years on your own you cant expect the wife to make a 16 mile round trip everytime you fitted a brake cylinder or replaced a rusty pipe.Do i long for those days again? Nope, but now really enjoy doing my own vehicles. Must say its T4's and this forum that reawakened my interest in motors.

Paaaaaahahahahahahha! I love it! Don’t ever go changing on us Si. Top man.

Post a pic of the bumpkin bleeder. I’m intrigued. My interested in motors is down to stupidity.


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[S49]

Bumpkin Bleeder? I'll have to market that! Will get a pic next time its out.

[regcheeseman]

Bumpkin Bleeder? I'll have to market that! Will get a pic next time its out.

Please do, does sound pretty intriguing,

Much better than those shitty easi-bleeds that always explode off the fluid reservoir and spray brake fluid over whatever freshly painted object it can find in a 5 metre radius.

[TommyP]

Please do, does sound pretty intriguing,

Much better than those shitty easi-bleeds that always explode off the fluid reservoir and spray brake fluid over whatever freshly painted object it can find in a 5 metre radius.

Rubbish. You just insist on attaching it to a tyre with 40psi in it.


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[regcheeseman]

Rubbish. You just insist on attaching it to a tyre with 40psi in it.

Be fine if that were true, but I'd let a tyre down to fit the easi bleed which made it even more annoying because I had to pump the tyre back up with a foot pump after mopping the brake fluid off the garage ceiling.

[TommyP]

Think it’s time to get rid of the GT2052v in favour of more simple and hardly methods of boost. I got the overwhelming urge today after towing the trailer. I had lag as I’ve set the power low, the plan was to run it like this for a while to see how the gearbox is and it’s perfect but I’ve had camper shit to do so I’ve not touched the work van really other than the brakes. In this time I’ve been getting increasing bored of the lag and then the turbo is showing signs of soothing up the vanes and moving forwards, I can’t be arsed to give it any more time.

So, the K16 (PN - 6721) conflicting info on specs and wheel sizes so I’ve taken it apart tonight to measure it up:

Compressor wheel:
Inducer - 40mm
Exducer - 60.5mm
Turbine Wheel:
Inducer - 55mm*
Exducer - 49mm

*taken from known sizes as I measured slightly out and not the widest part.



Some of the sizes are conflicting online so I’m not sure if it’s been upgraded already or what. The compressor wheel is quite big for a K16 and almost identical to the smallest available K24 comp wheels so who knows. The core itself has virtually fuck all play in it so rather than get a CHRA for it, I think I’ll just get a billet 40.5/60.5 wheel in it and not bother upgrading it to a K24 wheel for now. Turbo rebuild do one and they also do generic outlets for me to fab up a new outlet/downpipe to the existing stainless exhaust. It’ll bolt straight up to my AXG exhaust fannymould and I already have a custom oil feed so the whole job will cost me next to fuck all.

The wastegate actuator is internal and not really adjustable and certainly not on the fly like you can with a K14 so I’ll use a manual boost controller I have lying around in the shed and fit it in the cab. Happy days.


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[Activ8]

Theres no conflict with the specs of the original turbo, 53149887721 AUDI 100 / A6 2.5TDI AAT AEL.
Turbine : 42/50mm
Compressor : 37/55mm
K16 oil housing
K16 compressor housing
K14 turbine housing
K14 backplate
A/R 4



Your buy has been machined to take the larger wheels and upgraded. Great news.
This might help you too.