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T4 : Battle Across Time (2010 to present)

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  • Looks smart.
    Good write up, thanks.
    Me cago en la madre que te pariĆ³!

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    • I've only just recently used Bilt Hamber....and I love it!!!

      This electrux stuff has got zinc in it, so this is why it takes so long between coats, and also why you can just leave the surface primed.

      It's not cheap, but it's worth every penny. I now won't use anything else...especially if I've got bare metal.

      It saves a lot of future hassle.

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      • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
        My 400ml can now weighs 330g after applying it to the passenger side. Sorry no start weight to gauge. So I'm hoping both sides, same area, two coats with one tin. In hindsight, because it sprays so well I'd just cover the exposed metal and save a load of wasted product but I'm reasonably happy and learned a few lessons.

        I need a system as a newbie to preppng and painting. A check & process list and products ready to go almost laid out to be better time efficient. I really needed a masking plan too, on the fly is shit and slow.

        Anyway before the rain kicked in again I've left it like this. Advice welcomed - should it be covered for 'x' number of hours. Nothing on the tin but I doubt they're expecting some dumb ass to be applying it in the open! [emoji23]

        Tin worm delayed for now!
        Are you applying with a compressor and spray gun ? Looks very good results, I was going to be Blue and Grey by 30th August but that will not happen so it will be Blue and Bubbles [emoji23]🤙🏽


        T4ism is not a Dis-easeJust T4s

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        • Applied by a man with a can Andy. It's not finished just 'zinc' primed and needs flatting back the primed and painted. The pitting where I went back to metal is quite deep and scarred so a little patience will be required to build the surface up, before carefully flatting it back to smooth before painting.

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          • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
            Applied by a man with a can Andy. It's not finished just 'zinc' primed and needs flatting back the primed and painted. The pitting where I went back to metal is quite deep and scarred so a little patience will be required to build the surface up, before carefully flatting it back to smooth before painting.
            A man with a Can with a plan 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽


            T4ism is not a Dis-easeJust T4s

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            • Started on the drivers side this afternoon, the area is a little more concentrated, as is the tin worm. Let's see what the damage is shall we?

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              • thats like new, i had to cut most of mine out and replace lol.

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                • Originally posted by qtronix View Post
                  thats like new, i had to cut most of mine out and replace lol.
                  And it's knowing that, that keeps me going qtronix....

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                  • Working my way around the knotted wheel selection on the tin worm discovery quest.... the area around the jacking point concerns me a little.

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                    • That don't look too bad Rob. Veiwing your first photos on the thread I was sure you would poke though.

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                      • Originally posted by S49 View Post
                        That don't look too bad Rob. Veiwing your first photos on the thread I was sure you would poke though.
                        It's a T4 Si.... you fear the worst, then party when it's a smidge better! [emoji38]

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                        • That's it, thicker and better metal than a Transit. Its 16 years since you could get a new T4. There isn't many vans that last as well as one.

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                          • Thanks for sharing Rob.

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                            • Took the Mrs for a walk, then managed to squeeze the second application on (within the 2-3 hour window) to use up the first can. Empty weight to follow so users will have a guide perhaps? Empty can weight xxxg.

                              There's a few spots of tin worm working it's way around the step fixings and in between some seams, did my best with brushes but couldn't get it to bare metal so its had a dose of Kurust for now...... sod off Reg! The liquid seeps into the seams lovely.



                              I was a bit pushed for time and been advised by Fruitbat to filler the seams and tidy up the door cill before electroxing (new verb). With rain imminent I went for getting the first coat on. I'll tidy it up when the rain stops in 2020.

                              Question1
                              Anyone else noticed holes in the step seem that genuinely look like runoffs?

                              Question2
                              Anyone else noticed the 2 holes in the base of the door skins that if your drive has a slope, leak water down the very areas I've just wire wheeled off & are about to paint? As the drivers side is worse than the passengers is something missing or not sealing / running off correctly?

                              Think I need to investigate the doors for tin worm. Nothing on the exterior to show rot or tin worm life but ..... its a T4.

                              Back on it Thursday if the rain stops!



                              Oh and I need to speak to a welder type about putting a small plate in around the oem jacking point and where the offside mudguard was fixed. Just to do a proper job.
                              Last edited by Activ8; 5th August 2019, 10:42 PM.

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                              • Originally posted by Activ8 View Post
                                did my best with brushes but couldn't get it to bare metal so its had a dose of Kurust for now...... sod off Reg! The liquid seeps into the seams lovely...................
                                And it does fuck all.

                                Go get the proper tools and do it as FrenchDNA showed us how.

                                All that bubbly surface of barely touched tinworm will burst back into life inside 12 months - even with electrox

                                I think those patches will go to pinholes if you prep them properly - which means water in the cavities and rot spreading unseen - at least get some wax in there on a long nozzle



                                Oh - and don't spray up to a hard edge of masking if you are not on an edge or a seam - try to feather the spray towards the masking or it'll leave an edge, you only need to prime the nearly prepped areas after all.
                                Last edited by regcheeseman; 5th August 2019, 11:52 PM.

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