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  • #61
    I take it you are MIG welding your repairs? Drill one of the 2 panels clamp up tight and spot weld the hole with the MIG. I'm told my mig spot welds look like toad stools.

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    • #62
      Originally posted by S49 View Post
      I take it you are MIG welding your repairs? Drill one of the 2 panels clamp up tight and spot weld the hole with the MIG. I'm told my mig spot welds look like toad stools.
      That’s exactly what I do , bar the toad stools , you can always grind the spot welds back and apply a skim of filler , I have been known to use a flat bottom drill to replicate the indentations of the factory spot welds .

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      • #63
        Here are some of my toad stools. Click image for larger version

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        • #64
          Thanks guys, I was wondering if the sealant would be sufficient over time didn't want it coming apart. Plug welds it is, more work but at least it will be permanent.
          Si I think I will have some similar photos of my front chassis to match yours shortly[emoji23]

          Sent from my SM-G930F using Just T4s

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          • #65
            My welding looks like pigeon stools
            Me cago en la madre que te parió!

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            • #66
              Great job mate
              Daft question, how long will the repairs last and how do u protect the back of the welds where all the paint is burned off in in:-accessible areas?
              Don't get me wrong. I don't doubt your skills, always wanted to know

              Sent from my SM-G930F using Just T4s

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              • #67
                I primed our panels just leaving the joints bare. We sprayed paint in through the nearest holes behind then once it had gone off cavity wax. Should last years especially with regular rewax/top up paint onto cleaned back surfaces. Well that's our plan anyway.

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                • #68
                  Originally posted by Hans View Post
                  Great job mate
                  Daft question, how long will the repairs last and how do u protect the back of the welds where all the paint is burned off in in:-accessible areas?
                  Don't get me wrong. I don't doubt your skills, always wanted to know

                  Sent from my SM-G930F using Just T4s
                  You can buy weld through primer ( paint both sides of the repair panel ) this helps with some repairs that are inaccessible to any other protection after the repair has taken place .

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                  • #69
                    Thank's still learning [emoji106]

                    Sent from my SM-G930F using Just T4s

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                    • #70
                      More cutting rust out...think I'm trying to build a light weight van, hopefully I am now at a point where I can start adding steel rather than taking away. This site is helping me loads with motivation and advice. Thanks guys.
                      Been cutting out the rear arch areas of rot today, thankfully not as bad as I thought it would be. Also have had a good look underneath and that is very good. This is where I need your help, I have removed the rear springs and shocks as my van is lowered but want to go further and have trial fitted my 17" Audi wheel to see clearance I will need. I am thinking either 4" or 5" Faulkner's. So my question is how much do I need to remove from the bumpstop tube?
                      I have also made a new repair section for the rather frilly rear bumper mount, took a while working it using the passenger side one for dimensions and angles. Overall a good day, now for some well earned refreshment.

                      Sent from my SM-G930F using Just T4s

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                      • #71
                        I cut 2cm in total out of my tubes.am running 5inch Faulkner.5mm off the bottom of the tube to remove the welds for the cup where the rubber stop is.The cup will drop out.Then I cut 15mm off the tube length and rewelded the cup back into the bottom of the tube.Looks factory without any visible cuts in the tube.Don’t get any contact,but I did just look at it and guesstimated the amount.

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                        • #72
                          Originally posted by Eagles02 View Post
                          I cut 2cm in total out of my tubes.am running 5inch Faulkner.5mm off the bottom of the tube to remove the welds for the cup where the rubber stop is.The cup will drop out.Then I cut 15mm off the tube length and rewelded the cup back into the bottom of the tube.Looks factory without any visible cuts in the tube.Don’t get any contact,but I did just look at it and guesstimated the amount.
                          Thanks mate, I wondered if people just guesstimated it. I was thinking about 20-25mm myself. Would like to end up ride height as similar to this photo as possible[emoji106]

                          Sent from my SM-G930F using Just T4s

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                          • #73
                            Impressive little repair panel you've made there mate.

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                            • #74
                              Originally posted by S49 View Post
                              Impressive little repair panel you've made there mate.
                              Thanks Si, it took a bit of effort but really happy how it turned out. Just need to do a bit more with the flap wheel but ran out of time. To me body work repair is a necessary evil but once it's done right and I'm happy with it then I feel like I enjoyed it...if you know what I mean.[emoji106]

                              Sent from my SM-G930F using Just T4s

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                              • #75
                                I’m loving this thread mate it’s amazing what some of you guys on here can do


                                Sent from my iPhone using Just T4s

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