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  • Tea strainer..

    Back of the van looks like a tea strainer at the moment.

    I had to drill out all the bolts holding the old seat in plus after taking up the boards found they were screwed straight into floor.

    Can anyone give some advice on what to do with the holes (I'm not welding). A mate mentioned using some rubber bungs and silicone?

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  • #2
    I had the same problem, firstly I sanded back any bits of rust and treated with crust, then some hammerite, then I put a blob of tiger seal followed by a pop rivit. Once all dried a bit more hammerite top and bottom just for good measure.


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    • #3
      Originally posted by chally69 View Post
      I had the same problem, firstly I sanded back any bits of rust and treated with crust, then some hammerite, then I put a blob of tiger seal followed by a pop rivit. Once all dried a bit more hammerite top and bottom just for good measure.


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      Cheers

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      • #4
        The previous owner to me had transit seats in the back of it, 5 massive holes in the floor, I fibreglassed mine from inside and bitumen underneath, worked a treat.

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        • #5
          My floor had been screwed down but I just welded all the holes as I'd got other big sections ok massive rotten bits of floor haha

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          • #6
            Car body seam sealer it's what car manufacturers use to cover small gaps can get it brushable or for silicone gun just put it on and forget about it

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            • #7
              Eh up.

              Have exactly the same problem in the back of mine. Even the boxes over the arches were screwed into the bodywork leaving three gert wood screws sticking out into the inner wheel arch! Lots to do on this front. Knowing I'd done some planning, a friend of mine asked my advice on this recently. I told her this...

              All products available from Halfrauds.
              Total consumables cost is £60 (not including respirator, gloves, cloths/rags, etc.)

              It goes without saying that you'll need some PPE for this. Rubber gloves, eye protection and a proper respirator (Like this)

              Degreaser £40 - LINK
              Fibreglass Filler £7.49 - LINK
              Rust treatment (Dinitrol 3125) £9.30 - LINK
              Wire brush £3.99 - LINK

              Method would be:

              1. Knock off/grind out rust then get in there with the wire brush on a drill and get rid of all the old paint around the hole and any remaining rust. You want to be looking at bare metal. Don't worry about making the hole bigger. You'll need to do this on the outside, too. Will mean getting underneath the van or taking the wheels off for better access to the rear arches. Use axle stands or blocks here for your safety. I'd also focus the wire brush on any other rusty parts of the interior floor pan.

              2. Sweep the big particles out, clean with soapy water then degrease the whole floor making sure the hole and area around the hole are completely clean. You'll want plenty of clean, dry cloths for this. Might want a change of clothes ahead of this to make sure any contamination is avoided. Allow the area to dry thoroughly.

              3. Spray the Dinitrol on an around the hole on both inside and outside of the van. Wait for this to dry (about 2 hours). This is the rust prevention. Also apply to any other patches you've wire brushed.

              4. Fill the holes with the P40 fibreglass filler. Stretch a bit over the hole and smooth down. Inside and outside is best and try to get the P40 to 'mate' through the hole for a good seal. Best done with your fingers through a bit of plastic bag so it smooths and doesn't get on your fingertips. Leave to dry (maybe another 2 hours).

              5. Spray it with Dinitrol again (both inside and outside) and leave to dry (another 2 hours). For a super tight finish, you can come back to the underside/inside of the arches with a bit of Schutz later.

              From this point, I'd say the holes are rust proofed, sealed and secure. If you're so inclined, it might be worth sanding smooth the fibreglass before the second Dinitrol, lightly degreasing the floor again and painting with red oxide primer. Allow that to dry then paint with whatever you want. The primer could be avoided if you use Hammerite Smooth all over.

              You're now ready to install the flooring and forget about any future rust problems.

              A days' work in my book.
              Last edited by Weemac; 21 May 2017, 07:09 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Weemac View Post
                Eh up.

                Have exactly the same problem in the back of mine. Even the boxes over the arches were screwed into the bodywork leaving three gert wood screws sticking out into the inner wheel arch! Lots to do on this front. Knowing I'd done some planning, a friend of mine asked my advice on this recently. I told her this...

                All products available from Halfrauds.
                Total consumables cost is £60 (not including respirator, gloves, cloths/rags, etc.)

                It goes without saying that you'll need some PPE for this. Rubber gloves, eye protection and a proper respirator (Like this)

                Degreaser £40 - LINK
                Fibreglass Filler £7.49 - LINK
                Rust treatment (Dinitrol 3125) £9.30 - LINK
                Wire brush £3.99 - LINK

                Method would be:

                1. Knock off/grind out rust then get in there with the wire brush on a drill and get rid of all the old paint around the hole and any remaining rust. You want to be looking at bare metal. Don't worry about making the hole bigger. You'll need to do this on the outside, too. Will mean getting underneath the van or taking the wheels off for better access to the rear arches. Use axle stands or blocks here for you safety. I'd also focus the wire brush on any other rusty parts of the interior floor pan.

                2. Sweep the big particles out, clean with soapy water then degrease the whole floor making sure the hole and area around the hole are completely clean. You'll want plenty of clean, dry cloths for this. Might want a change of clothes ahead of this to make sure any contamination is avoided. Allow the area to dry thoroughly.

                3. Spray the Dinitrol on an around the hole on both inside and outside of the van. Wait for this to dry (about 2 hours). This is the rust prevention. Also apply to any other patches you've wire brushed.

                4. Fill the holes with the P40 fibreglass filler. Stretch a bit over the hole and smooth down. Inside and outside is best and try to get the P40 to 'mate' through the hole for a good seal. Best done with your fingers through a bit of plastic bag so it smooths and doesn't get on your fingertips. Leave to dry (maybe another 2 hours).

                5. Spray it with Dinitrol again (both inside and outside) and leave to dry (another 2 hours). For a super tight finish, you can come back to the underside/inside of the arches with a bit of Schutz later.

                From this point, I'd say the holes are rust proofed, sealed and secure. If you're so inclined, it might be worth a sanding smooth the fibreglass, lightly degreasing the floor again and painting with red oxide primer. Allow that to dry then paint with whatever you want. The primer could be avoided if you use Hammerite Smooth all over.

                You're now ready to install the flooring and forget about any future rust problems.

                A days' work in my book.
                That's awesome mate. Thanks for the very detailed instructions 👍

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